Water pump housing BOLT torque -RB??

[TownsendsFJR1300]

For the F150, 2006 (in particular and others).

The Yamaha shop manual does not show the torque value for the 4 water pump housing bolts.

All that is mentioned is using loctite- NO torque value..

Besides having the bolts and threads, nice and clean, can you, Rodbolt, post what YOU torque them to, if you use loctite, or a touch/anti-seize of oil to prevent seizing, etc).

Thanks ahead of time..

[pstephens46]

I don't remember him saying anything about loctite. I do know he uses a bit of grease and I do as well with the constant salt bath. Those bolts are consistently rusty when removed after 1-2 years. I like that the kit includes 4 replacements.

[boscoe99]

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Being the housing is NOT metal / aluminum I don't think I'd want the amount of torque as in the standard torque values (possibly easier to warp, damage)..

From my manual (no torque value, only LT for loctite):

[boscoe99]

Mercury Marine shows the torque value for that specific bolt as 18 newton-meters. Which equates to 13 pound-feet. About 159 pound-inches.

Which is what the chart above shows.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That's a help...

Isn't that Mercury model the same as the Yamaha, just re-badged?

The housing looks the same...


The #7 tube applied(shown in that pic), wonder if that's loctite or?

[boscoe99]

That's a help...

Isn't that Mercury model the same as the Yamaha, just re-badged?

The housing looks the same...

The #7 tube applied(shown in that pic), wonder if that's loctite or?

Interesting isn't it that Mercury can fix a Yamaha service manual (add the torque value) but Yamaha can't do it themselves? I checked the latest F150 SM. Still does not have a torque value for those bolts.

92- numbers shown are Mercury and Quicksilver part numbers for Loctite 271

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Interesting isn't it that Mercury can fix a Yamaha service manual (add the torque value) but Yamaha can't do it themselves? I checked the latest F150 SM. Still does not have a torque value for those bolts.

92- numbers shown are Mercury and Quicksilver part numbers for Loctite 271

Yep, the same, loctite... GREAT INFO, thank you.

Why Yamaha won't post that is beyond me. It's way more critical than many fasteners they give spec's for...

**How many guys put grease or oil on the threads to prevent later seizing???

I would like to know if Rodbolt, regularly does it exactly by the book, 13' and loctite...

271 is the RED, high strength yet! I'm fixing to install a kit..

[boscoe99]

I don't, and won't, use red loctite on anything. I would prefer to take my chances of something becoming loose on its own rather than having something never being able to take apart.

[fairdeal]

IMO, if one actually uses the thread locker, measuring the torque value is unimportant

the bolts are compressing a plastic housing onto a rubber o-ring -

so "snug, but not stressing the plastic" is fine - the Loctite keeps the bolts from loosening....

[pstephens46]

May Yam SM shows Loctite 572 for those bolts. I believe that stuff is white and medium strength. I never used Loctite on mine, but what do I know....Don't use on lower unit bolts either.

[fairdeal]

May Yam SM shows Loctite 572 for those bolts. I believe that stuff is white and medium strength.

Interesting - I've seen red, blue and green - never encountered white.

I see it has titanium dioxide in it - that 's the white color.

Also see some references that its "low strength" - elsewhere "medium" - ?

and that its a "slow curing gel"

[TownsendsFJR1300]

May Yam SM shows Loctite 572 for those bolts. I believe that stuff is white and medium strength. I never used Loctite on mine, but what do I know....Don't use on lower unit bolts either.

My shop manual shows 572 (medium) as well..



Just an FYI.

To bolt the stator inside the cover of my Yamaha motorcycle, Yamaha uses a ton of red super duty loctite to keep it from loosening up as it's inside the engine on the three main bolts and on another wire retainer inside the cover..(aluminum block-torx screws).

The ONLY way to get them loose is with a heat gun aimed at the aluminum cover on high and working quickly.

As long as it's hot (on/in the block, the red will let loose... .

I use it fairly often.



*So 13 ft lbs and medium LT (on clean, dry threads) seems to be the way to go...
No warping, no stripping of threads and it's not coming loose..



.

[panasonic]

My shop manual shows 572 (medium) as well..



Just an FYI.

To bolt the stator inside the cover of my Yamaha motorcycle, Yamaha uses a ton of red super duty loctite to keep it from loosening up as it's inside the engine on the three main bolts and on another wire retainer inside the cover..(aluminum block-torx screws).

The ONLY way to get them loose is with a heat gun aimed at the aluminum cover on high and working quickly.

As long as it's hot (on/in the block, the red will let loose... .

I use it fairly often.



*So 13 ft lbs and medium LT (on clean, dry threads) seems to be the way to go...
No warping, no stripping of threads and it's not coming loose..



.

Scott,
Loctite 243 is a good all round general purpose thread locker and doesn't require the heat gun to release it.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Scott,
Loctite 243 is a good all round general purpose thread locker and doesn't require the heat gun to release it.

The internal engine case of the bike gets very hot with engine oil. These 4 bolts are NOT removed normally unless the bike is crashed, case destroyed, so you don't want these bolts coming loose..

The Red loctite I referred to earlier re the motorcycle, ^^^^, WAS RED when I removed the factory bolts(the dried remnants).

I've also used HAD to use RED loctite for high temp applications, IE, for my weed-eater. The combo cylinder/head, bolts to the block with ONLY TWO BOLTS.
Being air cooled, the machine at 7-8K RPM WOT, gets VERY HOT. I checked the actual temp of the block with a lazer temp gun and check spec's (temperature) for the RED loctite.

**The RED loctite was the ONLY product that would hold up to that heat between the block and 2 bolts. And that is soaking them in RED.. That machine is my favorite and is currently my primary machine.

Point being, RED (when liberally applied) can be removed with high, very local heat. Just a touch of red, depending on the application, can be removed without heat...