200 HPDI oil alarm help please

[Bad_Fish]

Hey Crew!
New to the forum, so first off, handshakes all around.

I've been searching here and everywhere on the internet for a couple days to try and figure out what's going on with my boat, but I'm stumped now and I'm hoping someone here can help me figure this out. I'll try to be as detailed as possible.

Boat hasn't been ran in a few months, so I wanted to put it on muffs and warm it up. It started with no problem but only ran for maybe 30 seconds. Went into alarm and bogged down.

• Middle Bar Blinking on Tach
• Constant audible Buzzer
• Both oil tanks full

Tried to restart the engine. It would turn over but not start. Pulled the kill switch and re-installed. That somehow cleared the alarm and the engine fired right up like normal, but went into alarm again and bogged down. Same alarm.

1. Drained Fuel/Water separator and VST, No Water present. Re-primed.
2. Drained engine oil tank and watched the pump refill it from the primary.
3. Disconnected oil sensors one at a time to see if it would clear alarm. Did NOT.
4. Removed sensors. Both were very clean as well as the oil that came from the tank.
5. Wiggled the throttle around thinking maybe a position sensor. Did nothing.

I really dont know what else to check from here. Im thinking one of the oil sensors went bad, but the alarm should go away if I unplug the wiring harness correct?

Couple other things that I can think of:
If I pull the kill switch, it must reset something in the ECU, because it will fire right up every time I do that, but if the alarm is still present the engine will not start. It will turn over though. That confuses me.
If I do start it with the kill switch trick, it blows a good bit of bluish/grayish smoke at start up. Maybe from turning it over without actually firing off. I dont know. Engine sounds normal until it enters limp mode and dies.

Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. I have pictures, but for some reason it kept failing to attach. Tried JPG and JPEG formats.

[rodbolt17]

you may have done more damage than good.
first if you pulled the engine tank switches I really hope you drained the tank first then tilted the engine.
this will prevent any debris at the tank bottom from entering the oil pump intake hose.
second if you removed the engine tank switchs you need to drain the tanks and remove the switchs and make sure the seal between the tank and the filter tube is replaced.
also make sure it is not shoved down the intake pipe.

this is what random jacking can do, it can destroy motors.

the middle bar flashing indicates the tach has lost its ground path from the tach through the remote tank switch (SWB) to engine ground.
it does noting as far as alarms,reduction or anyother function other than it wont transfer oil automatically.

now on to the alarms.

how many ways can we set an audible?

1 crank it with the lanyard out.
water detect,faulty switch, shorted red/white wire.
low battery voltage.
low engine oil level.
overtemp/temp switch closed or pink wire shorted.

that is about the short list of anything on the HPDI that the ECU will set an audible.
you should not see RPM reduction below about 2300 RPM.
now with low battery voltage that engine will run poorly to not at all.

NO ECU resets, it is not a rebootable device.
it is a PROM setup.

there are no sensor codes other than the above that will set an audible.

YDS will show the reason the audible is set.

it is a stupidly simple system but it requires an understanding of how it works.

[rodbolt17]

capn.
it does not work that way or just maybe I may have mentioned it.
like I said the only switch intdicates that will set an audible.
the middle bar on the HPDI is simply an indicate that the remote oil tank is low.
if a visual conformation of the tank level disagrees with the indicate it means the tach has lost the ground path back to the engine block.
the ECU does NOT control middle bar.
it is a tach function.

my guess is a bad connection someplace or he is fighting two issues.
gotta fix the middle bar issue first.

[Bad_Fish]

Ok, thanks guys. I'm digesting this info and chasing this stuff down. Will report back.

[pstephens46]

"Middle Bar Blinking on Tach"

Badfish

Count the number of blinks on the tach. Like 2 blinks followed by 8 blinks is a code 28 - and on the F225 tack this is caused by starting an engine in gear. It's a nothing code that resets itself when you shut the engine off for a minute - than restart.

Anyway, the blinking bar on tach with an alarm on my tachs is an "overheat" situation.

Engine going into slow mode is not good.

I've had two failed oil pressure sensors (OPS) over the years on my three F225s - but no slow mode when the alarm went on. I just bought new sensors and all worked fine again.

If it's the OPS you can check it on the YDS (you get a hard code 39 - I think / also blinks 3 times followed by 9 blinks) and see your oil pressure - which was fine on mine.

While I was waiting on the new OPS to arrive, I disconnected the OPS "clip attachment" to disable the OPS, and ran the boat with no annoying alarm.

My motor communicates with smoke signals.

[Bad_Fish]

Ran some more checks. Maybe a short on one of the temp sensors? IDK.

Battery voltage - 14.4v Charging and 13.2v Off Charge. Drops to 12ish while cranking then bounces back in the 13s.

Temp Sensor Continuity checks: Disconnected to test sensors separate from wires going through engine to block.

Right side- 2 wires Pink/Black

1. Sensor- O.L.
2. Wires going back- O.L. to each other and to block.

Left side- 3 wires 2 pink / 1 black

1. Sensor- O.L.
2. Wires going back- 0-14 milli ohmes to each other and the block. This one has 3 wires. 2 pink connected together and one black.

[Bad_Fish]

I have no clue how to test the oil tank sensors. Too many wires to know what's going where.

[rodbolt17]

ther are NO SENSORS.
quit.
the oil system has 4 switchs.
the overtemp has 2 switchs.
they are ON or OFF.
OPEN or CLOSED.

unlike certain other Yamaha the tach does not display codes .

the middle bar flashing indicates 1 or 2 things.
one is the remote tank is low.

the other is the ground path from the tach to the engine block has been lost.
this is a TACH function and will NOT set an audible,a code or anything else.
it simply blinks the middle bar instead of keeping the far right bar solid.
that is ALL.

I already explained how the audible gets set on that HPDI.
remember, it is the voltage the ECU 'sees" not the voltage on the gauge.

[boscoe99]

To further expand upon what rodnut says about the middle bar flashing, it only flashes when the tachometer is not seeing a ground from the sensor switch that is the remote boat mounted oil tank. Ground to the switch could be bad. Ground across the switch (the switch itself) may be bad. Ground from the switch to the main engine harness could be bad. Ground to the tachometer could be bad.

And one other thing, a ground being applied to the tachometer causes the middle bar and the right hand bar to illuminate steady state. If and when the ground is not present then the right hand bar disappears. The middle bar starts flashing. It is only telling you (and the ECU) that the remote boat mounted tank is low on oil. Based on the tachometer not getting a ground from the remote oil tank.

No alarms. No RPM reduction mode. The blinks are steady state. There are no blinks to count. No ground = continuous blinking. Ground = no blinking. Steady bar.

[Bad_Fish]

Sorry.. Switches..Got it.

I'm really trying to follow your advice, but some of it is a little hard to follow for me. For example I dont even know what YDS is.

So on the Tach blinker, you said fix that first, sorry:

1. Reserve Tank level is between 70-80% full.
2. Oil automatically pumps to the engine tank with no issues.
3. Going find the grounds right now and will report back.

[rodbolt17]

all HPDI , 4 stroke EFI are YDS compatibles.
the older OX66 and some early microprocessor units would support the diagnostic test lamp.
most HPDI and 4 stroke EFI will support the test lamp.

see how easy this is?
if the ECU will auto transfer yet the middle bar is blinking I have no reason to test the remote tank switch or engine to tank wiring.
I would check the wire from the tach to the splice in the engine harness.
yea it is a poor splice.
the only ECU controled oil indicate is the low engine tank level.
if you wish to test the tach for internal failures simply unplug the green and green/red tach connector.
jumper the green tach lead to ground. turn the key on.
it should self test then the far right solid bar appears.

but it is NOT your audible issue.

do NOT ground the tach send green wire that has a bullet connector.

[Bad_Fish]

Rodbolt17,

Great info. I'll go check that splice.

Any idea how to figure out what the audible is without YDS?

CaptSolo,

I really dont understand why you keep busting my balls over silly stuff man. Did I say something wrong?

[pstephens46]

Rodbolt17,

Great info. I'll go check that splice.

Any idea how to figure out what the audible is without YDS?

CaptSolo,

I really dont understand why you keep busting my balls over silly stuff man. Did I say something wrong?

Badfish- his Indian comment? He was responding to me.
Keep forging ahead. Electrical issues are a pain. We always bust Solo's chops.

[rodbolt17]

Bad fish
ease up some of us have been not only on this foirum for years but I started on another back aabout 02.
got banned from it about 09.
keyboarding and drinkin ya know
so sometimes we like to bust some chops, be a tad sarchastic, not me of course, but it is all fun and we do try to help.
some with personal experience with their yamaha's some with professional experience from years of training schools and experience.

but trust me no one is bustin on anyone

[Bad_Fish]

Cool I love that. I just didn't know if I came off wrong and made someone angry with me.

You guys, I'm completely appreciative of the advice.

I think I'm just going to haul it in to the dealer on Monday and let him run the diagnostics. I guess I was just hoping it'd be something really simple. DIY mindset.