access to oil pan

[TownsendsFJR1300]

It would never have occurred to me to do this.

"Eventually" the rubber itself must get brittle and wear - but in the meantime -

fast and easy to possibly "extend its life" for a few years

(I see Worst Marine stores have the seal under the Sierra label for $5.23)

I agree BUT that driveshaft seal is out of the weather MUCH more so than the prop shaft seals (sun beating on the LU)..

My "lower" drive shaft seal spring was fine (replaced anyway) so really, the main difference is salt water access to the SS spring causing it to eventually fail..

Next time my LU's off, (and no internal water), that spring alone will get replaced with a new spring from a new seal... Very cheap insurance IMO..

[gsdanno1]

got both seals removed below water pump and prop , what do you guys use to install the new ones , cant really use a seal installer with the shafts installed

[pstephens46]

I used a PVC connector. Straight connector for 1 1/2 " pipe. Just about perfect diameter. Installed a piece of PVC pipe about 12" long to push/tap the seal down to the correct depth.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Plus 1 on the PVC.

Did you pressurize and find the leak? Were the springs there, around the drive-shaft seals?

Did you remove the carrier for the prop shaft or were you able to get the seals out W/O yanking it?

[99yam40]

hope you measured how deep the seals were before removing so you know where to set them

[pstephens46]

hope you measured how deep the seals were before removing so you know where to set them

Good point. The driveshaft seals on my F150TXRD were seated barely past the metal edge of the carrier. With seals removed I could clearly see the oil port or hole Rodbolt has mentioned several times. This is the one that can be blocked if you push the seals too deep. I looked and looked for something similar with the propshaft seal carrier but could not see anything. Those are seated deeper than the driveshaft seals. I put about 5 good hours on the new seals and no issues so far.

[gsdanno1]

Didn't know to measure depth of seals . What will I need to keep my eye on going forward ? I need to figure out the oil leak situation before going any further . It doesn't make sense to re install the lower unit , start it , even put it back in the water knowing that there is an oil leak. I'm thinking it's not going to fix itself by running it for a few hours

[gsdanno1]

I just looked at a video and realized that when I replaced the oil seal on the bottom of the power head , I installed it on the power head and then installed the pump , instead of installing it on the pump and then installing the pump . Think this might be the problem ? Also , where is this hole that I may or may not have covered up ? If I need to re do the water pump seals will I need to do both , or just the outer ? Hope the oil seal snafu is the cause

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I just looked at a video and realized that when I replaced the oil seal on the bottom of the power head , I installed it on the power head and then installed the pump , instead of installing it on the pump and then installing the pump . Think this might be the problem ? Also , where is this hole that I may or may not have covered up ? If I need to re do the water pump seals will I need to do both , or just the outer ? Hope the oil seal snafu is the cause

The shop manual will give you the order of re-assembly when working on the oil pump, seal, etc. (I have that info per the PM you sent me).

Re the LU oil seals, the carrier that both seals sit it, there's a small OILING HOLE that CANNOT be blocked with the top seal. Your probably fine with the lower seal but should pull the top seal, find the oiling hole and make sure it IS CLEAR..

*As a side note, THAT oiling hole is probably why the seals are set in there with the outer spring exposed....

[gsdanno1]

ok , send me the pdf , mine says Yamaha Service Manual. It also has all the torque specs , grease , sealer notes , assembly instructions , etc. When I purchased my yds/tablet , it was already loaded and they said it's the same manual that techs use at the dealer. I'll pm you my email address

[TownsendsFJR1300]

ok , send me the pdf , mine says Yamaha Service Manual. It also has all the torque specs , grease , sealer notes , assembly instructions , etc. When I purchased my yds/tablet , it was already loaded and they said it's the same manual that techs use at the dealer. I'll pm you my email address

It's probably the same then. The YDS only manual is different...

[gsdanno1]

I looked through it all last night after looking at the oil pump video , and could find nothing that shows the o ring being installed on the pump , as opposed to the block. The reason I installed on the block is because that's where it was when I pulled the pump off

[pstephens46]

At the risk of pissing you off......Is it possible the o-ring is not the exact size needed? I ask because in working on lower unit seals, I had to double check a couple part numbers as several of the o-rings were very close in size. I have never removed my powerhead so I have no idea how many you had to replace.

[gsdanno1]

there are 2 o rings on the pump , and 1 larger o ring that was on the block when I pulled my power head. In looking at an online video , they say "remove the oil seal if it is stuck on the powerhead and install new seal on oil pump" . So I was wondering if my installing of the new seal on the powerhead may be the source of the leak

[gsdanno1]

the only oiling "hole" I see in the cavity that holds the driveshaft seals , is a notch cut out of the seat that the seals bottom out on. There is what looks like an oil galley that goes towards the shift tube housing. This notch is BELOW the point where the seals bottom out , I can't see how it is possible to drive the seal past the bottom seat .