access to oil pan

[gsdanno1]

I always seem to do things backwards , I just added new gear oil . will drain . Speaking of oil , I still have an oil leak from the oil pump area. there was no leak when I started all of this work. I've replaced the oil pump, o rings ( twice) , and the leak is still there WTF . I've pulled the power head 3 times at $100 a pop for the gasket , I am really at my wits end . I have a compressor and mityvac to do the vacuum and pressure tests ( I can regulate air down to about 5psi), but no way to submerge to look for bubbles . I'm thinking a spray bottle of dawn around the drain plugs , water pump seals , prop seals will show some bubbles

[fairdeal]

In my experience, a little soapy water works very well for finding leaks under pressure.

as Boscoe has often explained, there is no Yamaha spec on the LU holding vacuum.

[pstephens46]

Maybe you can borrow a mity vac to pressurize the lower unit. Make sure the two drain screws aren't leaking any pressure. Seals are not too bad.

I would run it for few hours, normal use, in water,
under load. Keeping an eye on the engine oil level of course. Then see if the damn thing is still leaking. Assuming all the seals are oriented correctly. And speedie sleeve is good. Who knows? Screw the EPA...

I just read that you have a pressure tester, good.
Supposed to hold 10 lbs for 10 seconds. Mine held for 45 seconds, then I released the pressure.

Wonder what Rodbolt has to say about the engine oil leak?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

From my F150 manual:

Also, my Silverline Mity vac will pressurize over 15 PSI and there is NO gauge for pressure. You have to "T" a gauge in-line. The gauge included is ONLY for vacuum

[scofflaw]

Never pressure tested a lower unit in all the years I've been at it.

Change your fluid on a regular hourly schedule. If fluid looks good, fill er up and go. If not so good, reseal lower unit, like in ALL the seals.

Yamaha orientation of the oil seals is bogus, exposes the outside seal garter spring to raw water, no good for longevity. Back to back like other manufactures suggest is the way to go. Or maybe you can pack the recessed garter spring area with grease.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Never pressure tested a lower unit in all the years I've been at it.

Change your fluid on a regular hourly schedule. If fluid looks good, fill er up and go. If not so good, reseal lower unit, like in ALL the seals.

Yamaha orientation of the oil seals is bogus, exposes the outside seal garter spring to raw water, no good for longevity. Back to back like other manufactures suggest is the way to go. Or maybe you can pack the recessed garter spring area with grease.

My outer seal garter spring fail (other seal was fine) and I had NO water intrusion.

When the WP is off, it doesn't take 5 seconds to remove the cover and see if the garter is gone or not...

[scofflaw]

My outer seal garter spring fail (other seal was fine) and I had NO water intrusion.

When the WP is off, it doesn't take 5 seconds to remove the cover and see if the garter is gone or not...

Should not fail in 200 hours, somethin else is killing it. Pack it in grease then

[99yam40]

200 hrs of run time may have taken many years for some.

But packing with grease is a good idea to keep the salt away

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Should not fail in 200 hours, somethin else is killing it. Pack it in grease then

The seal was about 7 years old at the time (original 2006 engine)...

The shop I used stated it was way over due for inspection and it was not un-common for it to fail just over TIME. Sure enough, the spring failed...

There's nothing else in there that can "kill" the spring, short of salt water, Yamaha's design of exposing the spring, then putting a cover over the seals(helping keep salt water in there-and probably keeping flushing water OUT).

[scofflaw]

Probably not a bad idea just to replace the spring when the WP impeller is done

[99yam40]

where do you buy the springs?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Probably not a bad idea just to replace the spring when the WP impeller is done

I got all the old parts back when they replaced it and do have the lower, original spring which is fine.

But I agree, that would be the simplest, easiest, preventive thing to do. Next time, it'll be changed (the spring from a brand new seal).

I expected it to be broke when I just did my WP. Although it was fine, there was lots of crap above the seal and under the cover. What it was, I don't know-looked like loose grass, crap that might be floating in the water. It certainly didn't help water evaporate from atop the seal. (It was 3 years since the last WP).

Worse yet, the master tech put sealer around that round cover (which is NOT needed.. ???)

With that said, I just machined down a fitting from a spare LU oil pump (that screws on your quart)(same threads as the LU) so I can hook up my Mity Vac. I just have to pick a gauge...

**** I saw last week (and can't find it now), of a small circular "ring" that replaces the garter spring altogether. It keeps tension on the seal and of course, won't rust out / fail. It simply replaces the spring.

[pstephens46]

Spring has to be stainless for obvious reasons. I saw a YouTube where the spring was replaced with a nitrile ring.

Towards the end of this video:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=c14ixpVXrZ0

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Spring has to be stainless for obvious reasons. I saw a YouTube where the spring was replaced with a nitrile ring.

Towards the end of this video:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=c14ixpVXrZ0

That's it!!!! It was that video I tripped up on.

Does anyone have any experience with it?

Rodbolt, your thoughts?

[fairdeal]

Probably not a bad idea just to replace the spring when the WP impeller is done

Next time, it'll be changed (the spring from a brand new seal).

It would never have occurred to me to do this.

"Eventually" the rubber itself must get brittle and wear - but in the meantime -

fast and easy to possibly "extend its life" for a few years

(I see Worst Marine stores have the seal under the Sierra label for $5.23)