access to oil pan

[99yam40]

He was not talking about the water pump itself.
the parts he is talking about are there to preload the gears in lower unit by lifting up on the drive shaft a little.

I hope I said that right.

[pstephens46]

He was not talking about the water pump itself.
the parts he is talking about are there to preload the gears in lower unit by lifting up on the drive shaft a little.

I hope I said that right.

Yep. Sounds good.

[gsdanno1]

So I guess all the many attempts to install somehow caused this ? It wasn't knocking before all this

[gsdanno1]

please help me a little here. Is it #24 on the lower casing 1 schematic , driveshaft retainer , under the water pump housing

[pstephens46]

please help me a little here. Is it #24 on the lower casing 1 schematic , driveshaft retainer , under the water pump housing

Yes. You have to remove housing to access this metal retaining ring. Which sits on top of the white plastic collar. Which sits on top of impeller.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Exactly, all as posted above.

I have the EXACT same engine and per the manual (and my hands on mine last week), there is 2mm's of up and down play normally in the drive shaft.

My retainer came off pretty easy this time so it wouldn't surprise me it loosened up with all the activity you had with it..

If you check the section in the Yamaha shop manual, page 6-22 (under NOTE):

Part #24: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...201/parts.html

Double click to enlarge:

[rodbolt17]

that up and down play is called pinion lash.
there is a spec for it.
all that collar/wave washer does is hold the shaft up.
if you leave it out or assemble it wrong it may knock at idle in gear.
annoying but harmless.

[gsdanno1]

thanks , will look at that this weekend. I changed my gear oil yesterday and didn't really like the looks of what came out , other than a new prop seal , will I need anything else parts wise ? Is the nut reusable ?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

thanks , will look at that this weekend. I changed my gear oil yesterday and didn't really like the looks of what came out , other than a new prop seal , will I need anything else parts wise ? Is the nut reusable ?

Yes, it's usually re-usable... Sometimes their a PIA to remove (I bought a new just in case) but mine came off easily (for the new impeller).

If not replacing the impeller, it doesn't need to come off at all, just tightened down some..

I put a vise grip (with a rag under it, tightened lightly) around the drive shaft for easier griping. Turn the shaft clockwise while pulling it upwards. (you'll be able to feel the 2mm's play up and down).

I used an open box wrench that just fit over the shaft. Turn the shaft slowly while tapping down on the wrench end/ collor. Just make sure its down evenly all the way around..

Now you won't feel any up and down play and your good to go-very simple...

[gsdanno1]

did you use Yamaha tool to remove the prop nut , or field engineer one of your own ?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

did you use Yamaha tool to remove the prop nut , or field engineer one of your own ?

The Yamaha prop nut is a standard metric size... I have a locking prop nut that takes a special socket.

Just put a 2x4 in-between the prop and the lower section, that'll lock up the prop from spinning. Then a socket, (reg threads) after removing the cotter pin. There are several washers so pay attention as you pull them off.


**You don't have to remove the prop (except for less weight and make it a little easier to maneuver) to tighten down the drive-shaft play...

[pstephens46]

Don't forget to slather on the grease for propshaft.

And the sorry crankshaft bushing too....

[gsdanno1]

I was going to remove prop to change prop seal as it looks as though I may have water in the lower unit . I also have the locknut , according to the drawing . I'm going to get 93101-30m17-00 (2) for the seals , and 93315-43061-00 for the bearing . Will I need a puller to remove the bearing , or will it cooperate ? Thanks

[pstephens46]

I was going to remove prop to change prop seal as it looks as though I may have water in the lower unit . I also have the locknut , according to the drawing . I'm going to get 93101-30m17-00 (2) for the seals , and 93315-43061-00 for the bearing . Will I need a puller to remove the bearing , or will it cooperate ? Thanks

Bearing carrier can be a beast. I used the "hack" method to change my prop seals. I didn't want to spend 200 on a big slide hammer...

Pressure test your lower unit with a Mity Vac to locate leak first....

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Bearing carrier can be a beast. I used the "hack" method to change my prop seals. I didn't want to spend 200 on a big slide hammer...

Pressure test your lower unit with a Mity Vac to locate leak first....

Just to add, the top TWO SEALS, under the water pump, are known to fail, specifically the stainless steel spring that wraps around seals edge holding it to the drive shaft. One of my seals (top one) failed a couple years ago with less than 200 hours.

Besides pressure checking, just a visual of the top seal will confirm that one is bad. **You very likely DON't need to do the prop shaft UN-less you found fishing line in the seal, etc.

Here's a pic of mine from last week(cleaned up):
If you look real close, you can see the tiny spring around the top edge of the seal.




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