2008 Yamaha 150 2 stroke (150 TXR) issues

[99yam40]

if you see rubber squeezing up thru the slots in the band, you got it too tight

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I have seen so many instances where people have over torqued these type clamps to the point they distort the screw housing and even destroy them (maybe I was guilty of this in my earlier years). Here's what Ideal-Triton says their torque ratings are for these clamps.

"Installation Torque: 10 to 15 in-lbs (1.1 to 1.7 Nm)"

Not much, huh? Doubt I would use a torque wrench, but would "snug up" just a bit.

I put just a very light coating or grease or oil inside the clamp BEFORE tightening it down just to prevent any damage to the hose(clamp slips / tightens around the hose with little friction) .

When I emptied my fuel tank about 2 years ago, even with the clamp off, it was a b...h to remove the hose from the barb (transom filter).

I wouldn't think twice (prior to removing the hose) about it being air tight with no clamp... I needed a screwdriver and pliers to break the seal loose and work the hose off...

As for that torque specified, the thicker the hose, the more I would be inclined to tighten it.... My final tightness is good and snug...(more than 1' lb no doubt)..


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Quote from 99:
"if you see rubber squeezing up thru the slots in the band, you got it too tight"

Absolutely!! If it's a Chinese hose clamp, it'll likely fail before it gets that tight...

I bought an air compressor hose repair kit for my 150 PSI compressor. The hose clamps
that came with it were NOT Ideal brand, nor stainless. Couldn't find the SS clamps
in HD at all.... All but one broke while tightening them down, junk....
(and no, they weren't that tight at all)..

[911grizzly]

I took a look under the hood of this motor today to assess draining the carbs. This motor has 3 carbs stacked on top of each other, behind a black plastic air silencer or filter. The brass colored screws (2) on the bottom of each carb are (I assume) the drains. They look almost impossible to access. Aside from the air silencer blocking access from the front, there is only about a half inch of room beneath the screws. There is no room to get a slotted screwdriver in there I am sure and the head of the drainscrew is round.

Any tips on how to unscrew those drains?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Bolts 18 AND 12 are the drains and on yours, the main and slow speed jet are right under those as well(makes cleaning jets SUPER EASY!):

2006 and Later 150TXR Yamaha Outboard CARBURETOR Diagram and Parts

You should be able to access them with the silencer off a little easier.

Put a small towel underneath where your working so when you drop the drain bolt, you STILL HAVE IT....(Keeps fuel from getting everywhere too).

If their non-hex headed bolts, and there's no room, dis-assembly would be your only recourse..


Have you ran a shock dose of RF yet? It may very well fix your issue.
Accessing those jets would be the best and draining the bowls of any crap, even better..


You also asked about stabilizer earlier. I use "K100" or "Gas Shok" works very, very well.
Third video down: http://k-100.com/videos/demonstration-videos/

I can attest (with a large built in tank) the K100 (with non-ethanol fuel) has kept fuel
fresh for up to two years in my own boat... It also keeps any water in the tank mixed
so it'll eventually burn off. I have yet to find ANY water in my separator, engine filter...
The hull, and original tank is 1997 vintage and has NEVER been removed.