Can someone identify this part?

[FL_Marine]

Those two half circles cover the tops of the balancer shafts. Hopefully the leak means someone replaced the shafts with the newer versions. They must not have put sealant on the plugs before reinstalling. You could call your dealer with the serial number to determine if the balancer shafts have been replaced under warranty. It was a known issue with that year's model. Most likely it has been done but you never know.

You probably don't have to rewire the entire boat to fix a few issues. I have replaced a few pumps on my 11 year old boat. Part of the fun...

The shop said the balancers had been replaced due to a recall.



That's one of the seals.


Also I took off the thermostat housing to try and get a better angle on the hose nipple piece and I'm glad I did.

I think the thermostat needs replacing. These were taken immediately after I took it out of the cold motor.



Another angle



Also inside where the thermostat lives looks as bad as the thermostat does. very rusty looking. I tried taking a picture but it wouldn't come out.

Any tips on cleaning that up? I'm sure the rest of the water channels looks as bad.

[FL_Marine]

You probably don't have to rewire the entire boat to fix a few issues. I have replaced a few pumps on my 11 year old boat. Part of the fun...

I think it needs a rework since it looks like cats wired it all. Also I'm going to have a heck of a time reaching into where all my pumps are since the opening is only about 12 inches wide and about 8 inches across and right in front of the motor in the splash well. And they look a full arms reach from the splash well to the bottom of the hull where they are located.

Feel free to swing on by and give me a hand though.

[pstephens46]

The shop said the balancers had been replaced due to a recall.



That's one of the seals.


Also I took off the thermostat housing to try and get a better angle on the hose nipple piece and I'm glad I did.

I think the thermostat needs replacing. These were taken immediately after I took it out of the cold motor.



Another angle



Also inside where the thermostat lives looks as bad as the thermostat does. very rusty looking. I tried taking a picture but it wouldn't come out.

Any tips on cleaning that up? I'm sure the rest of the water channels looks as bad.

Let me see if I can post a link to another thread

http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...d-th27784.html

Fairdeal's thread discusses the bore corrosion.

Look on the bright side! At least the thermostat stuck open versus closed!
Maybe $33 for a new one, comes with gasket. Put a little grease on the bolts when reinstalling.

[99yam40]

I think it needs a rework since it looks like cats wired it all. Also I'm going to have a heck of a time reaching into where all my pumps are since the opening is only about 12 inches wide and about 8 inches across and right in front of the motor in the splash well. And they look a full arms reach from the splash well to the bottom of the hull where they are located.
Feel free to swing on by and give me a hand though.

never heard that before about cats, do they not do a very good job on most of what they do

I would think that they would be wired with long wires/cables so you could pull them out and work on them topside the hull if you can only get one hand on them at a time down in there

[FL_Marine]

That's true pstephens46..... although if they would have replaced the original thermostat some time during their ownership it might not have gotten stuck at all.

Would it hurt the motor running it in a barrel with a bunch of radiator flush in it? Typing it out like that makes me think yes.
I hope these repairs stop racking up because I can't afford to rebuild the engine or replace it.

[FL_Marine]

never heard that before about cats, do they not do a very good job on most of what they do

I find felines lack focus when it comes to wiring things. Now shredding things they are awesome at.

[99yam40]

there has been some posts on Rydlyme marine scale remover cleaning things up by circulating it through the motor with a pump

[FL_Marine]

there has been some posts on Rydlyme marine scale remover cleaning things up by circulating it through the motor with a pump

I'll have to check into that, thank you.

[throrope]

. . ."Put a little grease on the bolts when reinstalling."

I've become a Permatex Anti-Seize believer. Now use it like hot sauce.

[pstephens46]

I think most would agree the F150 is a tough bird. Ask Rodbolt about the crabber that got 8500 hours use up his way. I seriously doubt yours will need rebuilding anytime soon. I check my thermostat about twice a year to make sure there is no salt bridging. I have a little of the corrosion myself.

Good water flow and clean non-ethanol fuel goes a long way for these motors.

After you change water pump, check into your fuel filters....

Always something but if you do most of the work it will not kill the wallet.

More money saved means more gas for the boat.

How many hours on the engine?

[rodbolt17]

ya got lied to and pooched.
there was never a recall on the F150 balancer.
replaced a boat load both in and out of warrenty.
takes about 10 min to change those rubber seals.
they used the wrong sealant on yours.
try to post some pics of the seam where the balancer meets the crankcase.

[pstephens46]

Rodbolt - do you use 518 on the rubber too?

[throrope]

I suggest a search on ethanol fuels. Our new to us '05 tlr 90 hp two stroke sat some before aquired and didn't run right untill replacing the complete fuel system upstream of the outboard and getting the carbs rebuilt by certified Yamaha tech. I use 3/8" soft anealed copper for the fuel line with short lengths of hose at the tank and outboard and water separating filter. I also pump all fuel from the boat to the truck between trips. For me, no fuel means no fuel to go bad and haven't had issue since. If you have doubts, tap rodbolt for stories.

Often boats are dealer wired by their seasonal orangutans who leave owners with nightmares thereafter. I extracated our rats nest and intalled a fuse block for all accessories. The marine environment also creates havoc. Pay attention to connectors, starting cables and battery cables, especially grounds. I suggest packing inline fuses with dielectric grease.

Complete discharge of batteries especially for any length of time and during cold weather often results in their death shorty thereafter. If not equipped, I suggest a battery disconnect to eliminate parasitic loads during storage and a solar or similar trickle charger. Ours came with a disconnect and we're likely still on the original batteries.

I'm on my second round of bilge and live well pumps.

Water pumps, t'stats, control cables, steering maintenance, zincs, lower unit seals and plugs won't break the bank if planned. I find ignition is last to cause difficulty. Best to list every possible cause for an issue and work from low to high price.

If you paid comensurate with cragslist and don't find catastrophic problems, you did fine. All used have issues.

A good permanently mounted GPS fish finder is money in the bank, especially with nervous nellys aboard.

Please take extra time until second nature familiar with your boat and waterways and avoid distractions. Speaking from experience, maintenance and breakdowns are dirt cheap compared to damage and only by the grace of God did we escape injury.

B.O.A.T. - Break Out Another Thousand

[rodbolt17]

yes I use the 518 on the rubber as well.

most any used boat will have issues.

[throrope]

ya got lied to and pooched.
there was never a recall on the F150 balancer.
replaced a boat load both in and out of warrenty.
takes about 10 min to change those rubber seals.
they used the wrong sealant on yours.
try to post some pics of the seam where the balancer meets the crankcase.

Rodbolt just sold me on your need for a new shop. For me the right certified Yamaha Master Tech is money in the bank and I'm the last to let others touch my gear.