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Thanks 99 Yam. I know I have a maintenance sheet with the identification. Just cranky last night. I thought about the artificial load, and wondered why the shop didn't have one. $120 each trip to the river.
I can't trailer and park the boat here, Association (HOA) dead against it. What I may try is cranking it up in an area without homes (or witnesses).
Rodbolt17, I did remove the old filter head and found corrosion. Replaced it before taking it to the shop with one of composite material. One thing comes to mind now, I replaced the fuel lines from the tank to the bulb a year ago. An article in Boat US(?) stated that old lines do not do well with Ethanol and will start to break down so I replaced them. That action did not change any condition. I'll get another primer bulb before we leave.
I just don't understand why a place with years of experience can not identify the problem. I was a Field Rep and after a year or two climbing in and out of tanks, artillery, etc and finding weird problems, I could probably identify the problem talking to the mechanic.
I'd be cranky too if I spent $3500 with no resolution. Locate a master tech for future reference. We have exactly one here in Savannah. Luckily, he has a stellar reputation. He has bailed me out a couple times.
Thanks 99 Yam. I know I have a maintenance sheet with the identification. Just cranky last night. I thought about the artificial load, and wondered why the shop didn't have one. $120 each trip to the river.
ask them why they do not have test wheels and a test tank at there shop.
may not have the room for the tank, but if they had the test wheels then they could back into the water at ramp and run the motor on the trailer.
Either way it does take time to run the motor, but the trip to ramp is time also they charge for
Gentlemen you are Super!
I did remove the fuel management sender Saturday, and this morning I went and made sure all of the fuel hose clamps were centered on the barb and firm/tight. The one at the input side of the primer bulb was secure, clamp would not move but not tight. Took care of them all and my son, son-in-law took it out for a trial.
No stalling and no hesitation after a 4.5 mile put-put looking for speed bumps.
Got into the River and let it rip. Slowly increased to 5000 RPMs and 32 mph. Increased to near 6000 RPM but only for a minute. We went out with the cowling removed and I'm deaf now, but a good deaf.
Getting back to the dock, I did hear the relays reset so no issue there.
The primer bulb is a generic (Atwood?). It's behaving itself now, but I may buy a Yamaha one. I had 2 in the past and the failure point was obvious when they suddenly went rock hard.
I have one last question. Do these shops have their techs working on commission? Reason why I ask. I found my old car shop did but after they wanted to replace my complete AC on a 1999 Dodge truck for $950. Told him to close the hood. The AC has been working for 2 years now after tapping the clutch.
So, lesson learned: come to you guys and discuss before considering a marine shop.
sounds like it was sucking air on the loose connection at the bulb maybe.
hope you are good to go for awhile.
as a mechanic back in my younger days there were book hours that were charged for jobs the mechanics were paid off of and the customer was charged by the shop.
now in the marine business where things are soaked in water all of the time, things get more difficult and you probably get charged the hours that the job took.
if everything comes apart and back together as it should, you are charged less than if bolts break and need to be drilled and repaired etc.
for most engine related repairs there are still book hours.
they really don't apply well to stern drives.
I typically bill one hour per broken fastener extraction.
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