Originally posted by rodbolt17
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How To separate stuck lower unit
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Originally posted by DennisG01 View PostYes, I am positive all bolts were out - but I can appreciate why you guys are suggesting that. Heck, if I was responding, I'd suggest the same thing... start with the easy (and sometimes overlooked) things.
I really only had about 20 - 30 minutes to get it off. It was sort of last minute thought to take it home with me for the winter rather than do it in the spring.
I'm leery to use a metal chisel on the aluminum, but I suppose something like the wood chisel, with it's shallow angle, could at least work to start to get the casing separated. Then I can use something a little safer.
Scott, in the second link there is mention of a "bushing above the impeller" that gets stuck. I'm confused on what that is? I realize that it's in regards to a F150, but isn't this area pretty much the same as an OX66? Meaning, I don't understand what "bushing" can be holding the lower unit back from separating?Attached Files
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Originally posted by HarriesDGH View PostThis is what the new bush (and clip) looks like (it wasn't cheap). When I install the new part I will need to add some adhesive, as there is some play as a result of the cleaning & erosion.
Mine is clean as a whistle with no corrosion, however seems to "float" in the bore. (maybe less than 1/16" on the perimeter, less than 1/8" total). They say the purpose of the bushing is to help prevent excess drive shaft "wobble".
I wonder if the clearance is normal?
Rodbolt, Boscoe, others?Chuck,
1997 Mako 191 w/2001 Yamaha SX150 TXRZ Pushing Her
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Originally posted by cpostis View PostHarries:
Mine is clean as a whistle with no corrosion, however seems to "float" in the bore. (maybe less than 1/6" on the perimeter, less than 1/8" total). They say the purpose of the bushing is to help prevent excess drive shaft "wobble".
I wonder if the clearance is normal?
Rodbolt, Boscoe, others?
"chirp".
Mine "chirped" at about 1700-1800 RPM's, (with the non-yamaha water resistant grease) extremely annoying... That was within a month going out once a week...
With the correct Yamaha grease called for, hasn't chirped since..It's also used on the splines, prop shaft
My manual doesn't address the bushing but it should fit tight in the mid section and NOT move about...
The moving part is the drive-shaft ONLY. Should that bushing rotate in the mid-section-aluminum vs outside bushing, the aluminum is
going to "loose" to the harder material a wallow out.
It should be noted that some folks have spoke above removing the bushing altogether. I suspect Yamaha put it there for a reason and
I personally wouldn't remove it...
As I re-call, someone here epoxied it into the mid section as his was wallowed out...Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 12-16-2016, 03:45 PM.Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View PostI don't know the exact clearance but can tell you it's tight enough that WITHOUT the CORRECT WATERPROOF (not wheel bearing grease), it WILL
"chirp".
Mine "chirped" at about 1700-1800 RPM's, (with the non-yamaha water resistant grease) extremely annoying... That was within a month going out once a week...
With the correct Yamaha grease called for, hasn't chirped since..It's also used on the splines, prop shaft
My manual doesn't address the bushing but it should fit tight in the mid section and NOT move about...
The moving part is the drive-shaft ONLY. Should that bushing rotate in the mid-section-aluminum vs outside bushing, the aluminum is
going to "loose" to the harder material a wallow out.
It should be noted that some folks have spoke above removing the bushing altogether. I suspect Yamaha put it there for a reason and
I personally wouldn't remove it...
As I re-call, someone here epoxied it into the mid section as his was wallowed out...
I asked my local Yamaha dealer about removing it completely, but his advice was to replace it. I have taken this advice. I haven't installed the new part yet, but when I checked it for size I was able to rotate it by hand. I am therefore going to secure it with an appropriate adhesive. I am attaching an image of my port engine which was okay (though I am going to replace).Attached Files
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Originally posted by HarriesDGH View PostI asked my local Yamaha dealer about removing it completely, but his advice was to replace it. I have taken this advice. I haven't installed the new part yet, but when I checked it for size I was able to rotate it by hand. I am therefore going to secure it with an appropriate adhesive. I am attaching an image of my port engine which was okay (though I am going to replace).
Depending on how loose it is in the mid section, you may want to install the LU (no grease yet) with the C clip, just to make sure it's centered up as your epoxy (or what ever you end up using). (If it's almost snug, disregard)...
Then after it's dry, grease, etc...
What engine do you have?
As I re-call looking up at mine (and a new one at the parts counter) mine was no where near solid. You could see more light thru it than rubber...Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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Originally posted by cpostis View PostHarries:
Mine is clean as a whistle with no corrosion, however seems to "float" in the bore. (maybe less than 1/6" on the perimeter, less than 1/8" total). They say the purpose of the bushing is to help prevent excess drive shaft "wobble".
I wonder if the clearance is normal?
Rodbolt, Boscoe, others?
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Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View PostDepending on how loose it is in the mid section, you may want to install the LU (no grease yet) with the C clip, just to make sure it's centered up as your epoxy (or what ever you end up using). (If it's almost snug, disregard)...
Then after it's dry, grease, etc...
What engine do you have?
As I re-call looking up at mine (and a new one at the parts counter) mine was no where near solid. You could see more light thru it than rubber...Attached Files
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Bushing... Ah, it's attached to mid section and the driveshaft slides through it. Got it. From the initial description, I was imagining something attached the driveshaft (right above the impeller housing). For one, I couldn't imagine what would be there in that spot and two, if it was, I couldn't imagine how something attached to the driveshaft would prevent the driveshaft from slipping down and out.
I'll definitely double check myself on the bolts. Who knows, maybe I'm not remembering well enough as it was 2 months ago.2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)
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Originally posted by DennisG01 View PostBushing... Ah, it's attached to mid section and the driveshaft slides through it. Got it. From the initial description, I was imagining something attached the driveshaft (right above the impeller housing).
I'll definitely double check myself on the bolts. Who knows, maybe I'm not remembering well enough as it was 2 months ago.
I re-peat, make sure you use the correct grease, or you will be doing a "do over"- (don't ask)..Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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Was looking for more information on this and found a thread where Rodblot commented. I'm going to change mine and use some information from the thread that others should consider as well!
http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...g-th25316.html
Thanks Rodbolt!Chuck,
1997 Mako 191 w/2001 Yamaha SX150 TXRZ Pushing Her
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