How To separate stuck lower unit

[pstephens46]

are you sure you removed all the bolts?
the 2.6L has 7 the 3.1L has 8.

So the 3.1L with 8 bolts has two under the trim tab?

[rodbolt17]

one under the tab.
one fwd of the tab pocket by about 2-3 inches.

[boscoe99]

You need to have nine bolts laying on the bench to make sure that all have been removed. Seven of item 5, one of item 8 and one of item 15.

[HarriesDGH]

Yes, I am positive all bolts were out - but I can appreciate why you guys are suggesting that. Heck, if I was responding, I'd suggest the same thing... start with the easy (and sometimes overlooked) things.

I really only had about 20 - 30 minutes to get it off. It was sort of last minute thought to take it home with me for the winter rather than do it in the spring.

I'm leery to use a metal chisel on the aluminum, but I suppose something like the wood chisel, with it's shallow angle, could at least work to start to get the casing separated. Then I can use something a little safer.

Scott, in the second link there is mention of a "bushing above the impeller" that gets stuck. I'm confused on what that is? I realize that it's in regards to a F150, but isn't this area pretty much the same as an OX66? Meaning, I don't understand what "bushing" can be holding the lower unit back from separating?

I had the same problem and it was the bushing above the impeller. When I managed to get the leg off with pry bars and wedges, I found the following:

[HarriesDGH]

Driveshaft Bush

Managed to get the bush out ( it fell in to pieces) and cleaned the area with a wire brush. See image.

[HarriesDGH]

New Bush

This is what the new bush (and clip) looks like (it wasn't cheap). When I install the new part I will need to add some adhesive, as there is some play as a result of the cleaning & erosion.

[cpostis]

This is what the new bush (and clip) looks like (it wasn't cheap). When I install the new part I will need to add some adhesive, as there is some play as a result of the cleaning & erosion.

Harries:
Mine is clean as a whistle with no corrosion, however seems to "float" in the bore. (maybe less than 1/16" on the perimeter, less than 1/8" total). They say the purpose of the bushing is to help prevent excess drive shaft "wobble".

I wonder if the clearance is normal?

Rodbolt, Boscoe, others?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Harries:
Mine is clean as a whistle with no corrosion, however seems to "float" in the bore. (maybe less than 1/6" on the perimeter, less than 1/8" total). They say the purpose of the bushing is to help prevent excess drive shaft "wobble".

I wonder if the clearance is normal?

Rodbolt, Boscoe, others?

I don't know the exact clearance but can tell you it's tight enough that WITHOUT the CORRECT WATERPROOF (not wheel bearing grease), it WILL
"chirp".

Mine "chirped" at about 1700-1800 RPM's, (with the non-yamaha water resistant grease) extremely annoying... That was within a month going out once a week...

With the correct Yamaha grease called for, hasn't chirped since..It's also used on the splines, prop shaft

My manual doesn't address the bushing but it should fit tight in the mid section and NOT move about...

The moving part is the drive-shaft ONLY. Should that bushing rotate in the mid-section-aluminum vs outside bushing, the aluminum is
going to "loose" to the harder material a wallow out.

It should be noted that some folks have spoke above removing the bushing altogether. I suspect Yamaha put it there for a reason and
I personally wouldn't remove it...

As I re-call, someone here epoxied it into the mid section as his was wallowed out...

[HarriesDGH]

I don't know the exact clearance but can tell you it's tight enough that WITHOUT the CORRECT WATERPROOF (not wheel bearing grease), it WILL
"chirp".

Mine "chirped" at about 1700-1800 RPM's, (with the non-yamaha water resistant grease) extremely annoying... That was within a month going out once a week...

With the correct Yamaha grease called for, hasn't chirped since..It's also used on the splines, prop shaft

My manual doesn't address the bushing but it should fit tight in the mid section and NOT move about...

The moving part is the drive-shaft ONLY. Should that bushing rotate in the mid-section-aluminum vs outside bushing, the aluminum is
going to "loose" to the harder material a wallow out.

It should be noted that some folks have spoke above removing the bushing altogether. I suspect Yamaha put it there for a reason and
I personally wouldn't remove it...

As I re-call, someone here epoxied it into the mid section as his was wallowed out...

I asked my local Yamaha dealer about removing it completely, but his advice was to replace it. I have taken this advice. I haven't installed the new part yet, but when I checked it for size I was able to rotate it by hand. I am therefore going to secure it with an appropriate adhesive. I am attaching an image of my port engine which was okay (though I am going to replace).

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I asked my local Yamaha dealer about removing it completely, but his advice was to replace it. I have taken this advice. I haven't installed the new part yet, but when I checked it for size I was able to rotate it by hand. I am therefore going to secure it with an appropriate adhesive. I am attaching an image of my port engine which was okay (though I am going to replace).

Depending on how loose it is in the mid section, you may want to install the LU (no grease yet) with the C clip, just to make sure it's centered up as your epoxy (or what ever you end up using). (If it's almost snug, disregard)...

Then after it's dry, grease, etc...

What engine do you have?

As I re-call looking up at mine (and a new one at the parts counter) mine was no where near solid. You could see more light thru it than rubber...

[pstephens46]

Harries:
Mine is clean as a whistle with no corrosion, however seems to "float" in the bore. (maybe less than 1/6" on the perimeter, less than 1/8" total). They say the purpose of the bushing is to help prevent excess drive shaft "wobble".

I wonder if the clearance is normal?

Rodbolt, Boscoe, others?

The shaft will really wobble if you hit something! Around here it is not uncommon to bump sand and mudbars especially when fishing inshore. I would imagine without bushing the deflection could damage the powerhead. It is expensive at $50 plus $7 for the clip.

[HarriesDGH]

Depending on how loose it is in the mid section, you may want to install the LU (no grease yet) with the C clip, just to make sure it's centered up as your epoxy (or what ever you end up using). (If it's almost snug, disregard)...

Then after it's dry, grease, etc...

What engine do you have?

As I re-call looking up at mine (and a new one at the parts counter) mine was no where near solid. You could see more light thru it than rubber...

Twin x 115hp, 2-stroke, V4s, circa 1992 (autolube removed)

[DennisG01]

Bushing... Ah, it's attached to mid section and the driveshaft slides through it. Got it. From the initial description, I was imagining something attached the driveshaft (right above the impeller housing). For one, I couldn't imagine what would be there in that spot and two, if it was, I couldn't imagine how something attached to the driveshaft would prevent the driveshaft from slipping down and out.

I'll definitely double check myself on the bolts. Who knows, maybe I'm not remembering well enough as it was 2 months ago.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Bushing... Ah, it's attached to mid section and the driveshaft slides through it. Got it. From the initial description, I was imagining something attached the driveshaft (right above the impeller housing).

I'll definitely double check myself on the bolts. Who knows, maybe I'm not remembering well enough as it was 2 months ago.

Yep, once the LU is out, you'll see a nice shiny machined surface on the drive shaft that spins inside the bushing... It's up a bit, maybe half-ways up the shaft.

I re-peat, make sure you use the correct grease, or you will be doing a "do over"- (don't ask)..

[cpostis]

Was looking for more information on this and found a thread where Rodblot commented. I'm going to change mine and use some information from the thread that others should consider as well!

http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...g-th25316.html

Thanks Rodbolt!