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  • #16
    Timing belt and gears have to come off to remove cover? Prob why the previous owner didn't retrieve or repair. Maybe Rodbolt can reply on this.

    What's up with the screws on these lift pumps? They do love to rust as I keep spraying mine to try to slow it down.
    Last edited by pstephens46; 12-15-2016, 09:38 PM.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post
      Timing belt and gears have to come off to remove cover? Prob why the previous owner didn't retrieve or repair.
      I'd bet your correct with that assumption ^^^..

      It would have to be pretty tight for the cover not to come out. A simple peek should give a good idea how much room there is (or not there) between the cover and "gear"...
      Scott
      1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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      • #18
        Is what it is I guess. I'd want to get the cover off asap. Prob before I paid for the boat. Rigging the hole and wires not too difficult. Replace that top buggered one as well.

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        • #19
          It's been posted the PO didn't run it since the damage.

          **Unless the PO is personally known, I'd bet the engine was run.

          Hopefully the broken metal / parts did not make it PAST the valve cover
          and get into the oiling system...

          It'd be cheaper to R&R the valve cover (pluck parts), than to drop the price WAY DOWN...

          Again, while there, check the valve clearances..
          Scott
          1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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          • #20
            Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
            It's been posted the PO didn't run it since the damage.

            **Unless the PO is personally known, I'd bet the engine was run.

            Hopefully the broken metal / parts did not make it PAST the valve cover
            and get into the oiling system...

            It'd be cheaper to R&R the valve cover (pluck parts), than to drop the price WAY DOWN...

            Again, while there, check the valve clearances..
            Might as well replace timing belt if it has to be removed. Based on Fairdeal's experience, I would look real hard at the plastic gears for wear also.

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            • #21
              Yep, examining all those parts, especially with the high hours would be a VERY smart idea.. Belt tensioner too!
              Scott
              1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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              • #22
                All good advice.
                I originally was going to R&R the cover but have now decided to bring it to a shop and I'll make sure the shop owner who is also Yamaha 5 star certified will go thru the top end as suggested.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
                  Yep, examining all those parts, especially with the high hours would be a VERY smart idea.. Belt tensioner too!
                  Yea Buddy!

                  Looked a little further. To inspect it/them and do it right you have to remove the flywheel in order to properly inspect the tensioner, drive and driven sprockets, belt, etc. (maybe your stator too) When reassembling, you have to make sure # 1 cylinder is at TDC and the marks on your driven gears are "dead on".

                  Here's some more info:

                  Timing BeltPNG by Charles Postis, on Flickr

                  Would be nice to do a "Leakdown" test on your engine before you go to this trouble, however with that foreign metal in there, I wouldn't want to turn the motor over much by hand.


                  Do you have a manual? if not, I can supply relevant pages for you to review and make a decision if you're capable/willing to do yourself. if you PM me with e-mail address, I'll send a few pages.
                  Chuck,
                  1997 Mako 191 w/2001 Yamaha SX150 TXRZ Pushing Her

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                  • #24
                    I obviously don't have the shop manual for that engine but looking at your pic, it looks like a simple spring keeping tension on the roller (tensioner).

                    Nothing fancy like the larger motors.

                    Popping that spring off or just loosening it up so you can spin that roller and feel for any roughness/noise, etc should do. Again, with the high hours, it wouldn't surprise me it'd be worn...

                    Looking at the belt alone should give you an idea. If it's shredding, you know that and perhaps more need addressing...

                    But then, we don't know what's already been done to it...
                    Scott
                    1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                    • #25
                      Boat went in the shop at 8am this morning and out by 2:30pm. Rich the owner/mechanic replaced the cover with new seal, connected the computer that read a couple of codes that were apparently fixed and no new codes for the pass 500 hrs. He inspected the parts as suggested here and did what needed to be done. Got the motor purring and said that the motor runs great. My grandson will be happy to hear that!

                      Thanks to all here who has given me advice .

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                      • #26
                        Congrates!!!

                        Keep her going!!!
                        Scott
                        1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                        • #27
                          that hole in the cam cover?
                          that is what happens when you whack the screw with a hand impact driver.
                          never done it personally but I have seen it done.
                          the cover seal I usually reuse unless it is damaged.

                          it is also why I grease the screw threads when I reassemble one.

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