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Fishing line wrapped on prop shaft

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  • Fishing line wrapped on prop shaft

    Hi all,I have a 2003 yamaha txrb 130 hp. so I went to inspect my prop and prop shaft and found fishing line around my prop shaft. I then checked my gear oil and all was good. I'm going to post a pic of what I found. In the pic that shows the back of the prop should that seal be there or did it get stuck on it? My prop was hard to get off. Also since there was no water in the gear case should I not worry about the prop shaft oil seal?it seems like that oil deal has never been changed and doesn't look healthy but as I said there was no water in the oil.also if you see anything wrong in the pictures please let me know.i plan on doing a pressure test to check all oil seals. How many oil seals are there. I know of the drive shaft seal, shifter seal in the upper part and then the prop shaft oil seal and drain plug. I need to replace my water pump so while I'm at I mine as well check and replace the oil seals.Am I missing any other oil seals or areas where water can leak into the lower unit? Thank m you guys
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Yamaha3535; 12-07-2016, 12:10 AM.

  • #2
    More pics because I can only post one at a time for some reason
    Attached Files

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    • #3
      Another pic to show you what I found after taking off prop. As I said the prop took some fore to take off so something is up and I'm not sure what's up
      Attached Files

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      • #4
        I don't see anything except sooty oily dirt on the prop - but your photo is fuzzy.

        I am more mystified by the yellow wormy shapes - did you take the photos after applying some fresh grease to the shaft?

        anyway - close-up of the outer propshaft seal shows it is present but seriously chewed up.

        There are actually 5 shaft seals; one on the shifter and double seals on the input & output shafts.



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        • #5
          Just to add, with all that crap off and the shaft/prop cleaned up, does the prop go on and off easily now?

          If the prop shaft hadn't been cleaned / greased in awhile, that could hamper removal...It does appear to have some surface rust(shouldn't have any)...

          BTW, before draining, pull the top vent plug and see how much oil is in there now. IE, if it's half empty, you know there's definitely an issue (your pressure test will tell as well).

          In that one picture, is the fishing line still wrapped around it or is that the seal itself?
          Scott
          1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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          • #6
            you have 5 seals, 4 that need to be seated to the correct depth.
            2 gaskets.
            3 orings.
            reseal on that unit is about 3 hrs, depending on how much heat I have to apply.

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            • #7
              Yes the yellow worms is grease lol...I wrapped my boat and by the time I got to the prop is was dark so all I was planning on doing was greasing the shaft and then realize the fishing line. I'll prob go up to the boat this week sometime.yes the fishing line in the picture was still wrapped around the shaft(I've removed it).quick question, in order to remove the collar and spacer above the impeller housing how can I remove it without breaking it? What's the easiest method?

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Yamaha3535 View Post
                quick question, in order to remove the collar and spacer above the impeller housing how can I remove it without breaking it? What's the easiest method?
                I have managed to pry mine up (undamaged - to be re-used) by simply prying with a screwdriver blade.

                Of course you have to pry on the metal collar itself, pressing up on the plastic or below just jams it tighter.



                The above is not my photo -

                I would also have some odd bit of wood or metal as a fulcrum / improve the angle of attack

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Yamaha3535 View Post
                  quick question, in order to remove the collar and spacer above the impeller housing how can I remove it without breaking it? What's the easiest method?
                  You can use a flat head screw driver GENTLY lifting the top ring, while working your way around the shaft, It'll come off, just go slow and most importantly, evenly.

                  Depending on the age / condition of the impeller, you may want to just get a WP kit. It includes the retainers and the gasket(should be one) under the WP plate, which may very well get destroyed.

                  The kits aren't terrible expensive. Make sure you use the correct grease for the drive shaft splines and mid-section bushing (if you have one) when re-installing. (Automotive grease WILL NOT CUT IT)
                  Scott
                  1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                  • #10
                    the Yamaha kit does NOT contain the retainer,collar or washers.
                    if the retainer fights me much I simply take a sharp chisel and cut it off.
                    at 100 bucks an hour it would cost my customers to much to spend much time fighting it.
                    get it all apart,gather a parts list.
                    reassemble correctly.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                      reassemble correctly.
                      Rodbolt has explained (which the SM does not)

                      that if the shaft is not pulled up while installing - there is no point to putting the parts back on

                      [

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                      • #12
                        This ^^^, is to prevent un-necessary clunking at idle (which won't hurt anything, just annoying).

                        And RB is correct (I thought it came with mine-been awhile), but to give you an idea what's in the kit:
                        https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Outboa...water+pump+kit



                        .
                        Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 12-08-2016, 04:57 PM.
                        Scott
                        1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by fairdeal View Post
                          Rodbolt has explained (which the SM does not)

                          that if the shaft is not pulled up while installing - there is no point to putting the parts back on

                          [
                          Referring to the picture, "while pulling the drive shaft up, install the collar with an appropriate tool. Kinda funny bc it doesn't tell you what the tool is used, just one that's appropriate.

                          Installing new water pump last month is when I could have really benefited by knowing what the appropriate tool is. I saw a youtube video of a yam mechanic using a fabricated tool, which looked like a donut. The donut hole inner diameter was large enough to slip down shaft but small enough to provide an impact surface against the collar lip. He slide the tool up and down shaft impacting collar with one hand while pulling up on shaft with other hand. Nifty tool, one in which I did not have.

                          i ended up using the blunt end of a heavy large screwdriver. The thickness of driver was similar to the collar lip. But it was a major pain. At least it was doing this solo. Probably be much easier having a friend pull up on shaft while you drive down collar. Removing the woodruff key is what normally takes the most time if its dug in like an alabama tic, which mine was. But seating that collar took longer.

                          I'd like to hear what tool others are using to drive down collar.
                          Jason
                          1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

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                          • #14
                            How about a large adjustable wrench?

                            Now if I could get these GD new lawnmower tires back on the rims I would be thrilled.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post
                              How about a large adjustable wrench?

                              Now if I could get these GD new lawnmower tires back on the rims I would be thrilled.
                              Exactly.

                              Not the best photo but this one conveys the concept. The bigger the wrench the better IMO. For those drive shafts that need to be lifted up when installing the collar, that is what the comely lass assistant from next door is for. Better if she wears a cut off T shirt and shoty shots. The navel will be about right at eye level.

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