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I found the size. I am trying to pull the flywheel so I can replace timing belt. I am currently using a pancake compressor to power an impact on a puller. Not working , will have to wire up my big compressor. While I have everything off , I want to change the balancer as well. I don't see anything in the service manual that addresses this procedure with the power head still intact on the lower unit. Has anyone done it this way ?
Give the center bolt on the puller (the part of the puller that is pushing against the end of the crank shaft) a mild smack with a hammer while you have pressure on the puller. This will help release the flywheel from the taper on the end of the crank. Sometimes they don't need to be shocked like this but sometimes they do.
Tightening the puller more and more is probably just stretching the bolts out.
broke a bolt on the puller , anyone know where I can get high tenile metric bolts. The ones I was using are rated 10.9 , I see there is a 12.9 , and also a 90 rating
broke a bolt on the puller , anyone know where I can get high tenile metric bolts. The ones I was using are rated 10.9 , I see there is a 12.9 , and also a 90 rating
If you are starting to break off the bolts on the puller you are going to have to smack the end of that puller with a hammer to get the flywheel to release from the taper...
The shaft and flywheel are tapered so they will hold very tightly together.
I have read probably here that smacking the puller like that can damage bearing on crank.
but I have done it all of my life on other motors on mowers, cars motor harmonic balancers, etc
I have read probably here that smacking the puller like that can damage bearing on crank.
but I have done it all of my life on other motors on mowers, cars motor harmonic balancers, etc
only other choice is heat but not too much
Not talking about hitting it with a 5lb maul now as hard as you can muster. Lol
Just a good crack with a small peen hammer, that all. Shock that taper loose.
I have done it all my life as well on other engines, if they wont come willingly. Snowmobile inner clutches are always a bitch to get off.
As far as I no I have not damaged anything yet.
I am way more iffy on the heat...maybe just a heat gun.
big compressor , 130 psi at the gun. Snap On heavy duty impact. No movement. Tried the hammer trick , nothing. Going to call Fastenal in the morning , but judging from their website , they only have metrics rated at 10.9 , which is what I broke , and not the 12.9 harder bolts that I need. I just went outside and used a big ratchet and flywheel wrench and applied more pressure to the puller , probablt just stretching the bolts at this point
big compressor , 130 psi at the gun. Snap On heavy duty impact. No movement. Tried the hammer trick , nothing. Going to call Fastenal in the morning , but judging from their website , they only have metrics rated at 10.9 , which is what I broke , and not the 12.9 harder bolts that I need. I just went outside and used a big ratchet and flywheel wrench and applied more pressure to the puller , probablt just stretching the bolts at this point
Leave the pressure on the puller and let it sit and give it another smack tomorrow and try to tighten a bit more. Repeat.
Do you have the flywheel nut screwed back on so that top of nut is flush with the end of the crank? Doing that will help protect the threads on the crank and also give the end of the puller more area to push against....
end of the puller is not as wide as the threaded snout on the crank , so no worries about damaging threads. I now have the strongest metric bolts and washers available , tried this morning and no luck. I will take a pic and see if I can post. In the morning , I'm going to use a 3' cheater bar on my big 1/2" drive ratchet , while a buddy of mine holds the flywheel with a flywheel wrench. will do what was mentioned about pulling a little , tapping a little. Alo going to buy a brass hammer so I don't mushroom the head on the puller. Thanks everyone for all the input !
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