Work smarter, not harder.
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150 flywheel magnet threads for puller
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Can you get your hands on a bit of flat bar say a 1 1/2" wide by 1/4" thick. Cut yourself off three pieces a couple inches long each and drill a hole in each one for your bolts and use them for your washers. You need something that is not going to sink down into the slots of your puller.
And putting the nut on will keep the flywheel from jumping off the shaft as well.
Harbour freight has cheap slide hammer kits that you maybe be able to some how attach to your puller. Then you can shock the puller by sliding the hammer upwards. The force of the slide hammer blows are then only being transferred to the flywheel and not into the crankshaft .
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Once you get your puller sorted out you may want to try some heat. I would not use a propane torch, a heat gun may do the job. Heat the flywheel in the area "around" the crankshaft and not the crankshaft itself. Object here is to heat the center of the flywheel and expand it slightly so it will release. You can wrap a small piece of wet rag around the nut and the bottom of the puller shaft to help keep the crankshaft cool.
I must warn you...do this at your own peril. To much heat and crankshaft seals are not a good thing. Although I don't think you will hurt the seal with a heat gun as long as you don't get the crankshaft to hot!
Good luck
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heat would be my last resort also,
although I imagine the crankcase where the seal sits is normally ~200F when running
If I went that route,
I would spring for a can of that freeze spray with the straw nozzle
"expand" the flywheel with as much heat as I dared
then "shrink" the end of the crankshaft with the spray
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Originally posted by boscoe99 View PostWork smarter, not harder.
Used a lot of portapower systems and rams over the years.
electric and manual operated. never saw one like that before, but I like it.Last edited by 99yam40; 11-29-2016, 09:56 AM.
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just need a lot longer bolts.
only bottle jacks I have seem have long rams to lift a lot higher than needed for this .
the puck rams with remote pumps are a lot more compact. very handy for some jobs like this one.
and the hydraulic ram should not cause the major jump when the flywheel breaks loose, but it will jump someLast edited by 99yam40; 11-29-2016, 11:32 AM.
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yep, those things in all sizes come in handy.
we used a pair about 50 tons or maybe higher to push large rectifier housings away from the rectifier transformers after disconnecting so the transformers could be lifted to be sent for repair.
fun part was finding something to push against the other way when putting everything back together.
You can control the movement well even though they weighed so much and sliding across concrete slab
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Finally. I had a 6" long cheater bar on my 1/2 ratchet attached to the puller. I had bolt attached to the underside of the puller with a wrench to pull against the direction of the puller. I had a 2x6 wedged between the end of the wrench and my house that my buddy was holding steady. After several pulls , and 1 small tap on the side of the socket at the top of the puller , it popped loose. Timing belt done in a bout 15mins after that. then I replaced my balancer and this is what I found
http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/a...1&d=1480450566Last edited by gsdanno1; 01-13-2017, 10:58 PM.
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You had to have heard that squeal at some point? Any oil pressure issues, indicators or alarms? Gear parts get sucked up into oil pump screen and kill the engine. I guess you got lucky. Rodbolt recently mentioned a crabber that brought one in shredded and the motor ended up lasting for 8000 plus hours.
Are you up for pulling the powerhead and cleaning/replacing oil pump? Or maybe let it ride?
As I said before. I removed mine. Plastic gears be damned.
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Originally posted by gsdanno1 View PostFinally. I had a 6" long cheater bar on my 1/2 ratchet attached to the puller. I had bolt attached to the underside of the puller with a wrench to pull against the direction of the puller. I had a 2x6 wedged between the end of the wrench and my house that my buddy was holding steady. After several pulls , and 1 small tap on the side of the socket at the top of the puller , it popped loose. Timing belt done in a bout 15mins after that. then I replaced my balancer and this is what I found
http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/a...1&d=1480450566
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Originally posted by gsdanno1 View PostFinally. I had a 6" long cheater bar on my 1/2 ratchet attached to the puller. I had bolt attached to the underside of the puller with a wrench to pull against the direction of the puller. I had a 2x6 wedged between the end of the wrench and my house that my buddy was holding steady. After several pulls , and 1 small tap on the side of the socket at the top of the puller , it popped loose. Timing belt done in a bout 15mins after that. then I replaced my balancer and this is what I found
When was the last oil change? Any debris in there?
Definitely drain at the rear drain bolt and see what comes out. Plastic or not, if it gets in the oiling system and starves a bearing, well, you know...
RB will have to weight in on if the oil pan has to come off.Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 02-01-2017, 05:26 PM.Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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