704 Remote Control TT Switch

[Jason2tpa]

For the rocker, the pin doesn't move (it should be part of that main, plastic housing).

You simply and VERY CAREFULLY spread one side of the rocker outwards to clear the pin (the smaller the screwdriver, the better).

Will do, thanks for the heads up.

On the "backside", are there and screws/rivets? Did you already check connectivity with a meter?

Not sure where you are indicating. Underneath the rocker switch is where the wires connect. I've posted a picture earlier in this thread. My next step will be to check the connections at the harness junction. I was hoping just spraying the penetrant would solve the issue, but no that would have been too easy.

[Jason2tpa]

You might want to try this first. The leads from the switch run down the throttle lever and wrap around the bottom of the control at what Yamaha calls "shaft, drive". There are plastic covers that are placed in this area to protect the wire leads. Mine was cracked. Now think about this, how many cycles do you think these leads have gone through operating the throttle lever?

I would remove the lever as follows:
Remove the rubber cover off the neutral engagement push at the bottom of your lever, remove the two screws and large washer (plate). carefully pull the throttle lever away from the "shaft, drive". Inspect the switch wire lead cable. Disconnect the wire leads at the connectors below the control box. Check for continuity while moving the lead around to see if you have a broken wire within (now that I think about that, you can do this as well while lever is installed to see if you get an occasional open?. If you do have a broken wire occasionally opening the circuit, you may be able to splice by various ways depending on where the break rests while installed.

Hope you can get your switch assembly reliably operational. This switch is over $100 via Boats.net. Wish I thought of looking for new surplus switch at Marine Connection while I was there. They have all kinds of Yamaha switches, gauges remote boxes, starters, etc. Other brands as well.

Excellent details, I'll let you know the result.

[Jason2tpa]

Update:

Ok boys, I believe the switch has be cured. I snapped some pics during the breakdown of the switch.

Townsend...

You simply and VERY CAREFULLY spread one side of the rocker outwards to clear the pin (the smaller the screwdriver, the better).

I have no idea how you successfully pulled off the above. At least with my switch, the rocker would not pull away from the pin. And it didn't look like it should either.


Using a very small precision screw driver:
Picture #1....I carefully lifted the chrome base up and away from switch. It unlatches, then it completely removes.
Picture #2....The black mid section of the switch is a rubber boot. Roll the boot up to expose 2 latches, one on each side.
Picture #3....Once unlatched, now I have full expose to the contacts. This contact piece loosely sits inside the switch. Flip switch over and it will fall out.
Picture #4....Switch side of contact points. As you can see, black corrosion at the point of contact.
Picture #5....Here you can see the corresponding black corrosion of contact points.

I used an marine electronics corrosion spray and light pressure with a steel brush. The contacts points looked brand new after cleaned. While I had everything open, I disconnected ignition side of switch harness. Using meter, checked resistance and continuity of each wire. All were good. Reassembled.

Overall it was very easy. The small precision screw driver is key. It lets you safely slip under the chrome base plate. Once that has been removed, smooth sailing. If I had to do it again it would take maybe 30min. My guess is most shops would just recommend replacing the switch. Nah, let's get our hands dirty.

[Jason2tpa]

Each thread only allows 5 pics. Wanted to also include the base side of the switch, which is the 1st picture. When the 2 parts of the switch assembly are together, that metal post sits in the middle of the contact points (picture #2). When the UP or DOWN switch is pushed, the post articulates either direction, causing the 2 corresponding contact points to connect.

[pstephens46]

Way to go! I see it as saving $100. More dough for the gas tank!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yep, I'd say their slightly arced a tad....

And BTW, I never had that switch apart. I answered about how to get that rocker off (I didn't have a pic of that switch in front of me but its simply a 3 way switch(obviously).

As you did, I would have looked for another potential opening and go from there(again as you did)..

Glad Yamaha didn't melt the halves together or you'd definitely been stuck!

Great job BTW.

Just as a FYI, this is a pic of my starter relay contacts that were sometimes NOT working. Unfortunately, it's a sealed unit and had to be replaced. Took me at least 20 minutes to cut it aoart with an air cut off tool...

[Jason2tpa]

It's no surprise how corroded mechanical & electrical parts become over time. Month by month since purchasing my boat/motor ive been replacing parts, most as just preventative. Many were original '98.

The next big job on my list is replacing head gaskets. There is noticeable white crusty stuff on gasket edges. Who knows when they were last replaced. I've never done head gaskets before, but looking at the parts blowout it seems simple.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

It's no surprise how corroded mechanical & electrical parts become over time. Month by month since purchasing my boat/motor ive been replacing parts, most as just preventative. Many were original '98.

The next big job on my list is replacing head gaskets. There is noticeable white crusty stuff on gasket edges. Who knows when they were last replaced. I've never done head gaskets before, but looking at the parts blowout it seems simple.

Remember, that engine is 18 years old!!! In the salty, marine environment yet.. How many cars 18 years old do you see running around?

Head gaskets, as long as you don't break any bolts aren't bad to do. A great time to clean out the cooling passages too. An accurate torque wrench is essential...

[cpostis]

Good for you Jason!!!

[Jason2tpa]

Thanks guys!

[99yam40]

even if it just took 30 minutes by a shop , their charge rate would put a new switch cheaper.

Always good to do stuff yourself and not have to pay

[Jason2tpa]

Remember, that engine is 18 years old!!! In the salty, marine environment yet.. How many cars 18 years old do you see running around?.

You got that right. And this lends credence to the known belief that if you take care of your 2 stroke it will take care of you.

Head gaskets, as long as you don't break any bolts aren't bad to do. A great time to clean out the cooling passages too. An accurate torque wrench is essential...

That's exactly what i have read numerous times. I'll be easing those head bolts out very gently with the intially turn out. Torque wrench, absolutely.

[Jason2tpa]

Always good to do stuff yourself and not have to pay

I've been taking things apart and putting back together since i was in diapers, so naturally taking on engine mechanics is thrilling. Funny thing is, I discovered shortly after purchasing my first yam ('93 25hp) that fixing the motor myself was essential. I had a drive shaft that needed the barrel nut threads to be re-threaded. Couldn't find a mechanic that would do it. And the few that would, wanted $100-150 hour.

So yeah, saving $$$ is never a bad thing. But it doesn't compare to the thrill of accomplishment when taking on a mechanical/electrical task and getting it right. That feels sweet. The big bonus is taking what Ive learned and giving it to those who need assistance, for instance a forum like this.