704 Remote Control TT Switch

[Jason2tpa]

'98S115TLRW; 704 Remote Control

On the water today the remote control tilt/trim UP switch would intermittently not respond. When it would not respond at the control, the engine mounted UP switch did continue to work. This intermittent UP switch loss lasted maybe 10-15 seconds. I'd toggle the UP switch on/off until it functioned. No problems with DOWN switch.

I can only assume this is the beginning stages of switch failure? If you have a good wire diagram please post (Boscoe!!).

Recommendations on where to start the diagnostics? My dad recently had an issue with his 704 switch. Turned out it wasn't the wiring, but I think one of the contacts in the switch?

I guess it's time to pull out the multimeter again. Hell, it's only been 2 weeks since locating the bad wire in my oil harness. Woohoo, electronics are soo fun.

Thanks guys.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The contacts get corroded inside and then no worky.

Before I pulled anything apart, I'd spray the switch with some sort of lubricant trying to get it inside.

About a year ago, my engine mounted switch started doing the same, one direction, intermediate.. Sprayed it good, works fine ever since.

Or you can just replace the switch after testing it with a multi-meter.


Last week, a new member posted a similar issue, turned out to be a broken wire attached to the switch in the shifter mechanism.

[Jason2tpa]

The contacts get corroded inside and then no worky.

Before I pulled anything apart, I'd spray the switch with some sort of lubricant trying to get it inside.

Good suggestion...lubricant such as WD-40, or a corrosion cleaning electronics spray?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Good suggestion...lubricant such as WD-40, or a corrosion cleaning electronics spray?

If you can get to the switch, electronics cleaner. Only cause it'll likely dis-color any other plastic near by.

I wouldn't use WD40, just a decent spray penetrant, liquid wrench, PB Blaster, etc. That won't hurt anything and will likely (IF it's nasty contacts) fix it.

If you have a compressor, use that as well to blow the penetrant inside the switch too. I didn't have to go that far with mine. Just a couple of spritz's while working the trim button up and down....

[Jason2tpa]

Will do, thumbs up.

[cpostis]

If you can get to the switch, electronics cleaner. Only cause it'll likely dis-color any other plastic near by.

I wouldn't use WD40, just a decent spray penetrant, liquid wrench, PB Blaster, etc. That won't hurt anything and will likely (IF it's nasty contacts) fix it.

If you have a compressor, use that as well to blow the penetrant inside the switch too. I didn't have to go that far with mine. Just a couple of spritz's while working the trim button up and down....

Jason, do you have a binnacle, side, or flush mount 704? I ask because I recently disassembled my 704 binnacle mount, cleaned, and lubricated mine. Let me know if you have a binnacle and I can give you a bit of advice on how to access the T/T switch. There are some small plastic guides that are used to protect the T/T switch wire harness. I found mine cracked making my T/T harness vulnerable to damage. They are available and, believe it or not, not expensive from Yamaha. I replaced mine.

[Jason2tpa]

Appreciate the offer. Flush mounted.

[vb2oc0371]

I'm having the exact same issue. I have twin 2006 f150s & 704 Remote Control throttles. It started with intermittent failures to tilt both engines simultaneously (up only) using the thumb up/down switch on the port throttle handle. Now the engines won't tilt up at all using the thumb tilt button. The engines respond up or down using the individual engine tilt up/down buttons on the 704 Remote Control, and the engine mounted tilt switches work. I'm busy on another boat project right now so haven't had a chance to address the tilt problem. Please post up any solutions, and I'll do the same if I haven't seen any resolution here.

Thanks.

[cpostis]

Jason, do you have a binnacle, side, or flush mount 704? I ask because I recently disassembled my 704 binnacle mount, cleaned, and lubricated mine. Let me know if you have a binnacle and I can give you a bit of advice on how to access the T/T switch. There are some small plastic guides that are used to protect the T/T switch wire harness. I found mine cracked making my T/T harness vulnerable to damage. They are available and, believe it or not, not expensive from Yamaha. I replaced mine.

Must have had a brain freeze from watching NFL and NASCAR switching back and forth. If you have a 704, it must be a binnacle mount. Look at this image and confirm if this is like yours or not.

Sorry for the confusion.

[Jason2tpa]

Must have had a brain freeze from watching NFL and NASCAR switching back and forth. If you have a 704, it must be a binnacle mount. Look at this image and confirm if this is like yours or not.

Sorry for the confusion.

Yes, I have same control. 704 flush mount. I found a parts blow out here:
https://www.bandofboaters.com/fileda...8325&type=full

There are 2 screws on the lever handle. I opened it there, which exposes the switch. Took townsends suggestion and sprayed PB blaster penetrant into the switch. Did that a few times then used compressed air to blow it all out. It was working UP and DOWN. The issue I was having was intermittent so we'll see if spraying it solves the problem long term.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Great!

The lube helps (IMO) the contacts from corroding again (in my case, at least a year-at the engine switch).

But, at least now you know if it acts up again, a new switch will take care of it...

[boscoe99]

The 704 box is referred to within Yamaha as a top mount.

A flush mount would be a 6X0/6X6 that mounts mostly behind a side panel with only the handle being seen.

[Jason2tpa]

Ran the boat today and still experienced the intermittent loss of T/T UP at the control. Last attempt to fix it I sprayed PB blaster under the rocker switch using the small tube you attach to the can.

Is the rocker removable? See picture. There is a very small hollow rod the rocker pivots on. I did not attempt to remove this the first go around. I recon the contact points are under this rocker.

If it IS removable, what tool are you using to push that hollow rod out? Or is there another way to disassemble the switch? The bottom chrome base did not look like it can be separated from the black mid section.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

For the rocker, the pin doesn't move (it should be part of that main, plastic housing).

You simply and VERY CAREFULLY spread one side of the rocker outwards to clear the pin (the smaller the screwdriver, the better).

On the "backside", are there and screws/rivets?

Did you already check connectivity with a meter?

[cpostis]

For the rocker, the pin doesn't move (it should be part of that main, plastic housing). Will do you no good to remove the rocker! No access to this innards from this side of the switch!

You simply and VERY CAREFULLY spread one side of the rocker outwards to clear the pin (the smaller the screwdriver, the better).

On the "backside", are there and screws/rivets? (I think you'll find there is a plate at the bottom wire side of the switch with two tabs that set in the outer plastic housing. On the opposite side of the tabs there should be smaller dots that protrude into the housing, you'll have to try and pry the plastic housing away and up from the switch at this side, then try to pry the larger tabs up and out from the housing, then remove the switch from the housing. Good chance you will break the housing.
There should be some "pushrods" in the housing that run from either side of the switch push button that are used to activate the switch. Sometimes they are loose with o-rings , other times they are molded into the housing with diaphragms. You'll also probably find small springs that are used to return the switch to open (neutral). Be careful not to lose them.)


Did you already check connectivity with a meter?

You might want to try this first. The leads from the switch run down the throttle lever and wrap around the bottom of the control at what Yamaha calls "shaft, drive". There are plastic covers that are placed in this area to protect the wire leads. Mine was cracked. Now think about this, how many cycles do you think these leads have gone through operating the throttle lever?

I would remove the lever as follows:
Remove the rubber cover off the neutral engagement push at the bottom of your lever, remove the two screws and large washer (plate). carefully pull the throttle lever away from the "shaft, drive". Inspect the switch wire lead cable. Disconnect the wire leads at the connectors below the control box. Check for continuity while moving the lead around to see if you have a broken wire within (now that I think about that, you can do this as well while lever is installed to see if you get an occasional open?. If you do have a broken wire occasionally opening the circuit, you may be able to splice by various ways depending on where the break rests while installed.

Hope you can get your switch assembly reliably operational. This switch is over $100 via Boats.net. Wish I thought of looking for new surplus switch at Marine Connection while I was there. They have all kinds of Yamaha switches, gauges remote boxes, starters, etc. Other brands as well.