Both main digital gauges very dim..4stroke90

[8characters]

This is kind of weird. At first I thought they were off all together but when I look close the numbers are there really dim and kinda' like a photo negative. I can see that it cycles through modes on both gauges when I hit that button so they are working.. I can see the trim gauge best and that works fine. Thanks for your thoughts..

[throrope]

With great margin the most often cause of marine electrical issues is bad connections. They are also the least expensive to fix and cost the same after spending on everything else that wasn't broke. I suggest checking or disassembling every connection if required starting at the gauges and work back to the battery both hot and ground.

[Jason2tpa]

How old are the gauges? If they've aged then its a good chance your seeing the beginning stages of gauge failure. I recently replaced my tach gauge for the same reason...fading read-out, which then led to a blank screen, eventhough the backlight was still on and functioning alarms.

[8characters]

With great margin the most often cause of marine electrical issues is bad connections. They are also the least expensive to fix and cost the same after spending on everything else that wasn't broke. I suggest checking or disassembling every connection if required starting at the gauges and work back to the battery both hot and ground.

I just came in from removing the 6 screws and the dash panel with gauges to access the wires..The panel was also glued to the console so hard that pulled chunks of gel coat off around the edges Now it's loose the mess of wires behind are so tight to the harness I can't even pull the panel away the depth of the gauges. Even with a flashlight I can't see in there in the bright sun so I'll come back in the dark and see if there is just a zip tie I can cut to let the wires I'm working on loose.. I included all that in case anyone finds this in a search and wants to know what they're getting into just simply removing 6 screws and pulling their dash off.. I agree with the bad connection theory and am searching the (-) common grounds first . Thanks...I'll be back

[8characters]

How old are the gauges? If they've aged then its a good chance your seeing the beginning stages of gauge failure. I recently replaced my tach gauge for the same reason...fading read-out, which then led to a blank screen, eventhough the backlight was still on and functioning alarms.

As you can see by my signature the engine has a tag "mfg, 05/04" The boat is 05. I considered failing gauges but now after seeing them go from very very dim to what now is dim but visible with all functions/modes working. I'm all on the bad connection theory as mentioned and more than likely a common ground for all the gauges.. All the other lights are on full. The frustration is getting at this stuff and not having a schematic that shows all the (-) grounds and their location. thanks

[cpostis]

I just came in from removing the 6 screws and the dash panel with gauges to access the wires..The panel was also glued to the console so hard that pulled chunks of gel coat off around the edges Now it's loose the mess of wires behind are so tight to the harness I can't even pull the panel away the depth of the gauges. Even with a flashlight I can't see in there in the bright sun so I'll come back in the dark and see if there is just a zip tie I can cut to let the wires I'm working on loose.. I included all that in case anyone finds this in a search and wants to know what they're getting into just simply removing 6 screws and pulling their dash off.. I'll be back

Yup, riggers/manufacturers do what they must to get all the wiring in place and secure, especially in a small console. I recently refurbished all my wiring and cables, extended and left loops for the cables/wires. Replaced all crimp connectors with adhesive heat shrink connectors. I have an electronics box mounted under my T-top with stereo, VHF, bilge/baitwell, nav light and led floodlight switch panel all mounted on a Starboard panel that comes out with four screws. I added an access panel in the bottom of the electronics box that gives access to all my wiring within. A lot of time doing all this, but now all easily accessible for service/maintenance.

Have you ever replaced a fan blower motor for a Ford Explorer?

[pstephens46]

As you can see by my signature the engine has a tag "mfg, 05/04" The boat is 05. I considered failing gauges but now after seeing them go from very very dim to what now is dim but visible with all functions/modes working. I'm all on the bad connection theory as mentioned and more than likely a common ground for all the gauges.. All the other lights are on full. The frustration is getting at this stuff and not having a schematic that shows all the (-) grounds and their location. thanks

No way to get behind panel under console? ***.

I guess it's not surprising. I have seen some amazing rig jobs by these manufacturers.

[boscoe99]

Yup, riggers/manufacturers do what they must to get all the wiring in place and secure, especially in a small console. I recently refurbished all my wiring and cables, extended and left loops for the cables/wires. Replaced all crimp connectors with adhesive heat shrink connectors. I have an electronics box mounted under my T-top with stereo, VHF, bilge/baitwell, nav light and led floodlight switch panel all mounted on a Starboard panel that comes out with four screws. I added an access panel in the bottom of the electronics box that gives access to all my wiring within. A lot of time doing all this, but now all easily accessible for service/maintenance.

Have you ever replaced a fan blower motor for a Ford Explorer?

I recently needed to replace the alternator on the wife's Ford Escape. It is all but impossible to even see the damn thing. I gave it to a shop to do the R and R. Even they were not happy about doing it.

[8characters]

I'll be able to see down in there with my light when the sun isn't beating on all that white and maybe loosen up those wires a bit by clipping a zip tie and get in there to see/test something. Maybe someone will chime in about where the common ground (-) is for the gauges.(the panel ?)If it's settings the explanation that these gauges work with a constant back light and the figures are like shutters blocking the light is enlightening.. The good news is I know my senders are working and showing fuel,tach,trim so the shutters are all working on the gauges . I think the problem is just not enough back light. (I think ) I followed some instructions on setting the back light where you hit set and mode together for a second and then the set button then use mode to adjust 5 back light settings but it didn't work at all on my 05/04 gauges.

If you forward to 10:19 on this youtube the instructions are there to set the back light but they didn't work for me.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPTna-iTb20

[pstephens46]

I recently needed to replace the alternator on the wife's Ford Escape. It is all but impossible to even see the damn thing. I gave it to a shop to do the R and R. Even they were not happy about doing it.

Newest version of Escape? Extremely tight....

[8characters]

Thanks... to get back on subject.. I searched for yamaha F90 schematic or wiring diagram and found nothing that included the gauges so then I even bought what was claimed to be a pdf of the shop manual for $10 paypal.. It was worth $10 easy but does not have a schematic that includes wiring to the gauges....... HELP! I need a schematic

[fairdeal]

Thanks... to get back on subject.. I searched for yamaha F90 schematic or wiring diagram and found nothing that included the gauges so then I even bought what was claimed to be a pdf of the shop manual for $10 paypal.. It was worth $10 easy but does not have a schematic that includes wiring to the gauges....... HELP! I need a schematic

it is interesting the way Yamaha does that.

Use Google search to find a "Yamaha rigging guide"

That will show the wiring of the gauges - how they connect via the 10 pin and oil/trim harness - and "more or less" how those connect to the engine harness.

[99yam40]

it is interesting the way Yamaha does that.

I am fairly sure Yamaha did not have control of that $10 purchase.
even copy righted stuff is sold on line for cheap by some

[8characters]

I am fairly sure Yamaha did not have control of that $10 purchase.
even copy righted stuff is sold on line for cheap by some

I emailed them to say their info didn't have a schematic I needed and they returned the paypal.. My search continues and I did search "yamaha rigging guide" thanks fairdeal I'll put some more time into that..

[throrope]

Thanks... to get back on subject.. I searched for yamaha F90 schematic or wiring diagram and found nothing that included the gauges so then I even bought what was claimed to be a pdf of the shop manual for $10 paypal.. It was worth $10 easy but does not have a schematic that includes wiring to the gauges....... HELP! I need a schematic

Likely the boat manufacturer or dealer installed the console and gauges and no schematic was assembled.

Our boat has a rat's nest of wires and jumpers from console (not outboard) to switches and breakers and back to the stern mounted batteries, lights, etc. obviously installed by the most talented orangutan. The rig appeared assembled for multiple applications and longer boats. The excess was doubled back on itself and hand wrapped with typical electrical tape for a couple feet. None of the heat shrink on the crimp connectors was sealed.

When installing the radio and gps, I just plain had enough, put a six circuit fuse box on the accessory circuit and wired all from there. I pulled the tape off the doubled back section and used a length of plastic spiral wire wrap to gather the now individual wires into a single "harness" and ran it to the far corner of the console before turning back to the stern.

I hope you find better access to the console than through the gauge mounting plate and find the similar excess length that made my life easier.

On another occasion, our GPS unit kept dropping out. Just before sending it back, I encountered a typical auto style fuse in an in-line holder at the battery on the main hot wire powering the console. It was corroded in the holder. As the additional resistance built due to heating, the voltage dropped out of the GPS's operating range and it safely shut down. Then later, when the fuse cooled, it worked. Drove me nuts until I found that fuse that is now packed in dielectric.

Please keep us posted.