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  • Trouble shooting remote tank oil pump

    In another thread Jason described a problem he was having when his oil pump did not transfer oil to the main engine mounted oil tank. Here is an illustration that shows graphically what he did. Did not involve trying to understand voltage drop or how to use a multi-meter. Simple but effective test for the DIY'r non-mechanic, particularly one not versed in electrics.

    First view shows the pump itself being powered and grounded directly to a battery. The pump runs.

    Second view shows the pump being powered and grounded through the electrical connector that is part of the sensor switch assembly by the battery. The pump runs.

    Third view shows the pump being powered and grounded through the oil harness and through the sensor switch electrical connector. Pumpee no runee.

    Conclusion is that the oil harness is defective. Needs to be replaced.


  • #2
    Excellent illustration boscoe. And for those of you who are not electrically inclined/non mechanic as I am, and do add a multimeter while troubleshooting, learn from my words. If a wire has continuity, confirmed by the meter, this does not imply that wire has the ability to transfer the total amount of current/volts to the load.

    The meter sends a tiny amount of current out of one probe and beeps if the current is received on the other probe. The tiny amount of continuity current is a fraction of the current/volts applied to the wire when for instance 12v is applied. Any bit of corrosion in the wire can still allow for a positive continuity test, yet it may not conduct the adequate amount of current/volts required to power the accessory. Hence, voltage drop. Or as I now call it, Mr. Migraine.
    Jason
    1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

    Comment


    • #3
      it is even faster using a meter and two MAR-PAPER-CL-IP.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
        it is even faster using a meter and two MAR-PAPER-CL-IP.
        I am presuming that you are assuming that every boat/motor owner has a meter. And knows how to turn it on.

        When a light bulb in your ceiling lamp stops working does it drive your wife crazy that you have to go to the shop to get your meter, MAR-PAPER-CL-IP and other implements of trouble shooting equipment in order to perform a voltage drop test to see if that causing the problem?

        Comment


        • #5
          that reminds me of an older couple from my church ask if I could come by their house to see why the lights in the garage did not work anymore.
          found one switch of the 3 way switches that was very hard to move. replaced it, but the lights still did not come on.
          I replaced both the light bulbs and suprize the lights now work.

          I did break out the meter to see if the sockets were getting power when the switches were turned on finally.

          you would think the 1st thing anyone would do when a light does not work would be to change the bulb. I made a mistake thinking they did that before asking me to come over.
          live and learn. Never assume anything

          Comment


          • #6
            typically I unscrew the bulb and shake it, if it rattles I replace it. but yes I do keep a meter at the house and yes I can measure A/C D/C and Hz.
            I also have various jumper leads about .

            if you do not have a meter you really should not play with electrical circuits.

            while trons benefit our lives they can also take it.

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            • #7
              Oh yes it can and does often.
              No knowledge and a little knowledge can be dangerous ,
              Lots of knowledge and complacency can be also

              I am lucky to still be here myself , about 15 or so years ago I took around 2700VAC from hand to hand.
              had the unit locked out , tagged, and electrically cleared for us to work on.
              I knew I could not go inside the large rectifier unit because we were doing some testing by putting 3Phase 480VAC on the input of rectifier transformer to get some Phase angle reading and balancing info on the out put.
              But forgot it was back feeding another step down transformer (138KV to15KV) to get correct(15KV) voltage to rectifier during normal operation.
              I ended up trying to touch/work on the high side of the step transformer.
              Knocked me off the top(about 15 feet), luckily I had my safety harness on and hooked up.

              Got a few small blisters on my hands, and bruised some ribs, but other wise OK.
              Spent the night in hospital hooked up to all sorts of stuff so they could monitor my vitals. so they could get to me quickly if needed.

              I never heard of it before then, but they said it is common for the heart to stop up to 8 hours after something like that.
              One thing people should know, 120v Normal household voltage can cause you to close you hand and not let go of a live circuit, but high voltage usually will knock you off of it while causing more tissue destruction.
              voltage below 50 V normally will not hurt you too much due to the resistance of your dry intact skin. get it wet or a cut and it will hurt you
              be careful out there
              Last edited by 99yam40; 10-22-2016, 02:51 PM.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
                Oh yes it can and does often.
                No knowledge and a little knowledge can be dangerous ,
                Lots of knowledge and complacency can be also

                I am lucky to still be here myself , about 15 or so years ago I took around 2700VAC from hand to hand.
                had the unit locked out , tagged, and electrically cleared for us to work on.
                I knew I could not go inside the large rectifier unit because we were doing some testing by putting 3Phase 480VAC on the input of rectifier transformer to get some Phase angle reading and balancing info on the out put.
                But forgot it was back feeding another step down transformer (138KV to15KV) to get correct(15KV) voltage to rectifier during normal operation.
                I ended up trying to touch/work on the high side of the step transformer.
                Knocked me off the top(about 15 feet), luckily I had my safety harness on and hooked up.

                Got a few small blisters on my hands, and bruised some ribs, but other wise OK.
                Spent the night in hospital hooked up to all sorts of stuff so they could monitor my vitals. so they could get to me quickly if needed.

                I never heard of it before then, but they said it is common for the heart to stop up to 8 hours after something like that.
                One thing people should know, 120v Normal household voltage can cause you to close you hand and not let go of a live circuit, but high voltage usually will knock you off of it while causing more tissue destruction.
                voltage below 50 V normally will not hurt you too much due to the resistance of your dry intact skin. get it wet or a cut and it will hurt you
                be careful out there
                The heart often in the quiet or resting phase decides to expire some considerable time after a stressful event.
                And EVERYONE who has worked with electricity has had some sort of a shock. My father survived (went home) after saving his coworker being fried on 44,000 volts by a diving tackle!

                Comment


                • #9
                  I'm scratching my head

                  Hi people!! So I'm having a problem with my remote oil tank, it is not receiving the message to turn on and fill motor tank. (Remote oil tank motor 100 percent works) the manual switch on the engine will not pump oil either. Now on my tacho all the trim bars are lit up indicating my motor is trimmed all the way up.. whitch it is not.... Could this trim sensor be the culprit to my oil system not working??
                  Thanks!!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Bermyblue View Post
                    Hi people!! So I'm having a problem with my remote oil tank, it is not receiving the message to turn on and fill motor tank. (Remote oil tank motor 100 percent works) the manual switch on the engine will not pump oil either. Now on my tacho all the trim bars are lit up indicating my motor is trimmed all the way up.. whitch it is not.... Could this trim sensor be the culprit to my oil system not working??
                    Thanks!!
                    Start a new thread. Need the complete model identity of your motor.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      over the years Yamaha used 3 methods to control the oil pump on V motors.
                      that is why we need a model number.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Bermyblue View Post
                        Hi people!! So I'm having a problem with my remote oil tank, it is not receiving the message to turn on and fill motor tank. (Remote oil tank motor 100 percent works) the manual switch on the engine will not pump oil either. Now on my tacho all the trim bars are lit up indicating my motor is trimmed all the way up.. whitch it is not.... Could this trim sensor be the culprit to my oil system not working??
                        Thanks!!
                        Doubtful. The oil harness, which is the relay between the engine side oil harness and remote oil tank harness, is a completely separate relay. You need to do a voltage drop test on the oil harness since you've confirmed the issue is not the pump.

                        Before you had this issue, was the tach trim indicator functioning normally? It's possible the trigger mechanism that moves up and down w the engine is stuck in up position. Eyeball it to confirm its moving as you use the engine side trim switch to raise and lower engine.

                        If none of the above works, as boscoe mentioned, start a new thread with your model number.
                        Jason
                        1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          we will start with the fact that Yamaha never used any relays in the transfer circuit.

                          then we will move on to the 3 systems Yamaha used.

                          one used a mercury switch in a control box to prohibit transfer automatically,manual switch would over ride it.

                          2nd system used the trim sensor feed back,2.6Lv6 only, to inhibit auto transfer. manual switch would override.(90-95)

                          3rd used a pulser coil input. no input no auto transfer, 1995 and up 2.6L, all 3.1L all 3.3L and 2004 and up V4.
                          manual switch will override a lack of pulser coil signal.

                          it is the most dirt simple setup ever devised.
                          it flunks more techs on the master exam.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                            we will start with the fact that Yamaha never used any relays in the transfer circuit.
                            I was using the term "relay" as a verb, not as a noun, such as a relay switch. The oil harness relays the electronic signal from engine harness to tank harness, a electronic conduit if you will.
                            Jason
                            1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Using wrong terminology just confuses issues even more, a relay is a specific device, and the term is not to be interchanged, by your thinking, a wire is a relay, because it "relays" electricity from one place to another? just like switches are not sensors.

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