F100 chirping

[almetelo]

Hi guys!

2004 F100AET (carbs)

Sometimes do some chirping.

Have look on video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bq8OFhmYqVA

Timing belt tensioner?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I didn't hear it on that video.

Can you remove the engine cowl and try to record where the chirp seems to be coming from?

[almetelo]

Hi scott!

The chirp is all the time on video and on sec 7 is even louder however the motor not always make the chirp.

Did this video today just before take the boat from the water and at home on muffs may be even dificult to record the chirp.

Tonight a 2015 F250 just right next to my boat was stolen as the all rigging.
About 1 month a Suzuki DF250 was also stolen so it was the time to take this boat for home and my skiff with the F40 will hold untill next season

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I can't hear it so I really can't comment...

With the cowl off, can you hear if the bearing in the tensioner sounds noisy?

You can carefully release the load on the tensioner (don't let the belt slip-maybe zip tie it so it doesn't jump a tooth) and spin where the belt runs
and feel more for roughness, ANY kind of noise or ANY play.

Like any GOOD bearing, it should be quiet, smooth without any slop...

RB would likely know if there's any specific issues with that engine.

The only chirping I've heard was on my own f150 and that was the mid section bushing W/O the correct waterproof grease on it. I don't know if your engine even has a mid section bushing on it. if you've had the LU off before, you'd see a machined part about in the middle of the shaft. If that hasn't been greased in awhile, that could be the chirping. Mine was only at about 1,800 RPM's at its worst...

[almetelo]

Tomorrow I'll try to have a look and I'll give some feedback here.

Thanks

[almetelo]

Hi!

Run the motor on 2 diferent days trying to hear again the chirping but no noise.
I hope keeps that way.
Oil pump is one of the last things I want to chirp.

The motor was not charging properly since a few months ago so here is what I found...





I'm going for the 3rd rectifier in 3 years (1st original, 2nd was second hand, not the latest model)

This motors and the eternal problem with R/R fortunately problems with carbs over after instal a pre fuel filter with water separator

Guys here can I find that round connectors or do you know the type (name) of this connectors?

I'm considering a aftermarket R/R
Some bikes use the same type of R/R but with diferent connectors.

[almetelo]

Found the connector type

[cpostis]

Found the connector type

Almetelo:

I have the same connectors that are welded together and can't separate. Was told by a Yamaha Master Tech to just leave alone if I don't have problem otherwise, which I don't.

Could you pass on where you found the connector type and where I can purchase it?

Thanks!!!

[almetelo]

Hi Chuck!

Hope this can help:

DS-S

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Great find, got it saved!!

[cpostis]

Hi Chuck!

Hope this can help:

DS-S

Thanks a BUNCH! A little concerned with wire gauge 16-14, I think mine are AWG 12. I'll check tomorrow.

[almetelo]

Here you have other connectors used by yamaha outboards:

Sealed

[boscoe99]

Given the problem with some rectifier/regulator connectors, and given the fact that an R/R should not need to be replaced but every ten years or so, if that often, I might remove the connectors and hard wire the device. Using a good soldered and supported connection of course.

Solder to improve the electrical connectivity which should eliminate the possibility of a dangerous rise in temperature at the juncture of a female and male terminal.

Mercury's are noted for having failed electrical connectors between the stator and R/R.

Burned connectors are the least of the problem. Fires breaking out under the hood are the worst. Fires in close proximity to a fuel system that is.

[almetelo]

Today I've tested a aftermarket R/R from a bike on the motor and is charging just fine (ofcourse I cut that burned connector coming from stator and spliced with R/R wires that had diferent connectors). The R/R body/shape is the same as original but that means nothing at all. Yamaha SM donīt offer a way to test the diodes/ohms of R/R
The charging voltage out of the R/R and on battery are the same.
+/- 14.2v most of the time at various throttle positions up 3k rpm but not on load since boat is at home. At idle drop to 13.8/6 and max voltage was 14.6v which seems just fine to me (same as previous R/R)

This R/R costs less than $20 while original cost $237 here at boats.net plus postage, costums (Here in PRT must be much more)

All fine so far... but what concern me is if this thing burn (because is a aftermarket product?) however original R/R on some cases burn anyway and are suposed to have more quality.
Is a shot in the dark and there is no answer for my concern.

IDK if latest original R/R for this motor also burn.

I'm just trying to save a "few???" bucks and have the motor charging properly but to save a few bucks I donīt want to burn the R/R, CDI, Wire harness what else more... which may also happen with original R/R

I know some of you may say this happens because of loose/bad connections but why is this problem so common on this model and not on others?

[boscoe99]

One problem with this type of electrical generation system is that when the motor is running at speed it is creating darn near all of the electrical power of which it is capable. The excess power has to be wasted in the form of heat to keep the output voltage in check. Now put a finned R/R designed for a motorcycle next to a hot block with little air movement under a tightly cowled motor and the consequences are not always so good.

I know that lots of stuff in life is a trade off but IMO this is not a very good one. Give me a belt driven alternator any day of the week. When was the last time a PMG was used on an automobile or truck? Those things got left in the dust decades ago.