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why waste the money?
in over 40 yrs of doing this mechanic thing I have yet to see a failure caused by oil.
lack of? yes, but not the oil.
the FCW rated oils do have some additives to suspend water that automotive oils do not.
or so the engineers tell us.
I recently researched this for myself. I will give you the abbreviated version. IF, you are going to use Mobil 1 full synthetic use the High Mileage labeled oil. It has the highest amount of zinc (in the Mobil 1 line up) which is what you want for your outboard engine.
I recently researched this for myself. I will give you the abbreviated version. IF, you are going to use Mobil 1 full synthetic use the High Mileage labeled oil. It has the highest amount of zinc (in the Mobil 1 line up) which is what you want for your outboard engine.
I only gave the abbreviated version. Fair Deal has some good reading in his research. However, you may read other research articles that differ. That said, the Mobil 1 Full Synthetic "High Mileage" has the highest amount of zinc allowable for a vehicle with a catalytic convertor. It is not a marine oil. So it is not too much for your outboard powered boat. On another forum I attend some folks have used it with great success. (That is not an endorsement from me). But if you research marine oils, since most outboards don't have catalytic convertors they do raise the zinc level as well as other additives for marine use.
Just do some easy checking yourself on West Marines website. Check out their oils. They have Outboard oil and Four Stroke marine engine oil. Because inboard boats are now coming with catalytic convertors.
Not to get in a back and forth, I don't care what topic or research that you pick someone will take the other side of it. Makes for a good discussion. My answer was just to your Mobil 1 question.
waste money all you wish.
I have customers with 3-5 thousand hours with no syn oil.
my cousins 5.7 Volvo has over 13,000 hours and never saw synthetic.
rarely sees any maint.
I would rather see money wasted on cooling system and fuel system maint.
that is what typically kills marine engines.
never seen an oil related failure.
*** people do have a lot of opinions. I Generally use what the manufacturer recommends. The only thing west marine is good for is sale items. I am going to keep using marine oils. When west marine has sales the cost is about the same as other oils. So when these motors cost $$$ why take a risk.
I'm with rodbolt17, but not likely for the same reason.
IMHO, oil changes should be based on hours or calendar, which ever comes FIRST. For recreational boaters, calendar is first which negates the benefit of synthetics.
Small talk with the airport limo driver revealed their crew changed oil every one thousand miles just as I noticed the odometer on this car in continued daily service read 273,000 miles. My last employer had a fleet of cars and trucks they habitually changed oil at double frequency of manufacturers recommendation with air and oil filters. Whe, I asked about the filters, the tech said "See that old water truck? It has over 800,000." Seems early oil changes earns free vehicles.
Seems to me the limo service could be wasting money. They should do UOA's to verify their change rates. BTW most high millage fleet trucks use dual oil filters and go 20-30K/mi on an oil change.
Since I'm new to the whole boating thing and have to agree oil gets changes so often that synthetic might not make sense. That said I just winterized my dual F115's and after much research went with 5w/40 Rotella T6 full synthetic. At $53.00 for a 2.5 Gallon I'll use it. When I did the valve cover gaskets on my old allroad at 120K mile the heads looked new. That was with 10K mi oil change interval. The engine was still strong at 200K mi when I got rid of it.
You will never see sludge with synthetic on a good running engine. Can't say that with dino. Synthetic also flows better at low temps, not that too many rec boats run in the cold. You can get synthetic at Walmart all day at dino prices..
plus the fact that boats do not have gears to change so the motor is loaded up a lot different also going from idle all the way up the WOT.
even dragsters have some kind of gear changes going down the strip don't they
I don't think the top two classes use a transmission. They don't need one. I believe they have computerized clutches to feed in the power at some predetermined rate to try and keep the tires from breaking loose. So much power they have a difficult time getting it to the ground.
What I would like to know is why the cylinders don't hydrolock with all of the nitromethane they are feeding to the cylinders. Ever see all of that liquid pouring out an exhaust pipe when a cylinder does not stay lit?
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