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2000 Yamaha 115 Outboard fuel stabilizer

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  • 2000 Yamaha 115 Outboard fuel stabilizer

    Brief history real quick. My dad past away recently (about a month ago) and left me his 2000 Skeeter with Yamaha 115 Outboard. The boat and motor and in great condition. I unfortunately don't know much about boats. I'm wanting to learn and want to take care of this boat/motor. So I need to know what kind of stabilizer to put in this motor. I'm almost positive it is a 4 stroke but not 100% for sure, also I know the boat takes mixed oil and it has a system where the oil is automatically added into the fuel, do I need to put a certain oil (obviously a 4 or 2 stroke) and is 87 octane fuel good? The regular unleaded at the gas station? If there are any overall tips you can give me or any beginner books to enhance my knowledge on the subject it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much

    -Richard

  • #2
    2-Stroke/Cycle = gas/oil mix.

    4-stroke/Cylce = gas only. The engine has it's own, permanent supply of oil like a car. Well, not "permanent", but you get the idea. The 2-stroke does not have this, hence the reason you mix (or have an auto-mix like you have) gas and oil.

    So, yes, make sure you keep that reservoir full of quality 2-stroke oil. Bare minimum make sure it says TCW-3 on the label... which they probably all do now-a-days.

    If you use the boat on a regular basis and go through fuel relatively quickly then 87 is plenty fine. ALWAYS use a good additive such as Startron or Marine Stabil (I think it's called "360" now). There are others, too. These not only stabilize the fuel but combat ethanol problems and help to keep the fuel system clean.

    Many also swear by the use of Yamaha RingFreePlus. I use both Startron (diesel formula as it's less expensive) and RingFree and my entire fuel system has stayed very clean.

    Change your engine-mounted fuel filter on a regular basis such as once a year, unless you have a gauge installed to monitor it. The filters are cheap.

    Clean fuel and good oil = a happy engine.
    2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
    1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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    • #3
      A good idea would be to get an owner/operator's manual for this specific motor and read/study it....Yamaha dealer might have one for you....

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      • #4
        Originally posted by robert graham View Post
        A good idea would be to get an owner/operator's manual for this specific motor and read/study it
        Perhaps downloaded from this link?

        Owners Manuals, Outboard Engines | Yamaha Outboards

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        • #5
          Look around your area for a Boating Safety Course. It's not just a safety thing - although that is EXTREMELY important - it's also covers basic operation of the boat and trailering. They're often offered by USCG Aux and the local US Power Squadron - so try even just googling for you local squadron.
          2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
          1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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          • #6
            Just to clarify, Yamaha's RingFree is NOT a fuel stabilizer, its a fuel system cleaner and combustion chamber cleaner. IME, it works very very well and well worth the $.

            If your leaving ANY fuel in the system (more than a month-built in fuel tank), you should use a stabilizer as ethanol fuel goes bad in as little as a month.

            "Gas Shok" is an excellent fuel stabilizer: http://www.usafuelservice.com/produc...uel-treatment/

            Yamaha also makes a fuel stabilizer: https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Fuel-S.../dp/B008N3JX90

            IME, I had problems with Sta-bil (varnished up carb a month later) and won't touch it..

            *If the engine is carberated, you WILL be pulling carbs, cleaning them or paying to get them cleaned. ***(One member here, within the last month or so, ((automotive mechanically inclined)), had dirty carbs. He was hesitant on cleaning them himself and paid well over $1,000 to get it done. (a couple hour job)

            Ethanol fuel is known to eat up fuel lines internally (that happened to me before I switched over).

            IMO, the extra $ for NON-ethanol is well worth it in the end with less trips to shop from damage ethanol can cause..

            As posted above, get the owners manual and read it 2 times, better yet three
            being a new guy.. The more you know, the better...

            Good luck!
            Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 10-07-2016, 05:23 PM. Reason: Corrected Star Tron for Sta-bil
            Scott
            1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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            • #7
              Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
              IME, I had problems with Star tron (varnished up carb a month later) and won't touch it..
              That's weird. In reality, even the cheapest of these stabilizers/ethanol fighters will not CAUSE varnish. However, it's very possible that they started to clean things up and dislodged some built-up varnish. I would venture a guess that it was probably more of a coincidence/dumb timing or just that it loosened things up.
              2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
              1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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              • #8
                Originally posted by DennisG01 View Post
                That's weird. In reality, even the cheapest of these stabilizers/ethanol fighters will not CAUSE varnish. However, it's very possible that they started to clean things up and dislodged some built-up varnish. I would venture a guess that it was probably more of a coincidence/dumb timing or just that it loosened things up.
                Nope....

                It was maybe a 4 HP Briggs & Stratton aluminum carb (lawn mower). It was clogged up and needed cleaning which I did. The body (inside and out was cleaned spotless), the aluminum bowl itself spotless. I had Star tron mixed with the rest of my fuel cans and topped off the mower...

                The "flat" o-ring for the bowl was somewhat hardened up (needed replacement) and I just put it back together with that ring (didn't leak).

                About a month later, (maybe a month and a half), pulled the bowl to replace the o-ring (one bolt). The aluminum bowl was all brown AGAIN,.

                It certainly did not look like it had JUST been cleaned. Pitched that container and won't ever use it again...

                Might be better than nothing but within a month and half, carb brown inside AGAIN, No thank you...
                Scott
                1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                • #9
                  I use Startron and know others that do also.
                  no problems in anything i have so far.

                  I did not know they even made a mower with only 4 HP

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
                    I use Startron and know others that do also.
                    no problems in anything i have so far.

                    I did not know they even made a mower with only 4 HP
                    Heck, your older than I am.

                    3.5 HP was the standard for MANY YEARS for B&S, Tecumseh, etc. Then they bumped to 4 HP, then 5. Most of the Briggs engines were diaphragm carbs.

                    This particular engine was a regular float carb.

                    My current 8 year old Briggs is 7HP, OHV and is NOW, considered commercial (wasn't when I bought it). It's also carbed which I had the bowl off once to re-jet leaner (super rich from the factory!!). Never ever cleaned it. Starts first pull every time (Ethonol fuel with Gas-Shok and RF).
                    Scott
                    1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                    • #11
                      Hmmm. Definitely weird. Maybe there was varnish buildup in the tank or lines and that got dislodged. Or maybe there was some other kind of variable at play. This stuff - any stabilizer - just simply won't cause varnish. BUT... enough said on that - you don't like it, fair enough.
                      2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
                      1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by DennisG01 View Post
                        Maybe there was varnish buildup in the tank or lines and that got dislodged. Or maybe there was some other kind of variable at play. This stuff - any stabilizer - just simply won't cause varnish. BUT... enough said on that - you don't like it, fair enough.
                        Plastic fuel tank... The Stabil didn't cause the varnish, it didn't prevent it in my case (which it should have).

                        Perhaps they've changed the mix, this was probably 3-4 years ago.

                        I've been wrenching on small engines since I was 12 years old, 1970 (and other engines as well).

                        I'm speaking/posting from personal hands on experience, approx 45 years..

                        My dad used Stabil and I got to clean his carbs (mostly weed-eaters in his case) probably 2 times a year. I finally mixed up some RF and Gas-Shok for him to mix up per gallon just to save me extra work... The little engines have EXTREMELY SMALL openings...
                        Scott
                        1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Stabil or Startron? If Stabil, red or green?

                          I'm absolutely not calling BS on your experiences, Scott. In fact, other than working part time in the marine industry for the past 28 years, my home-life experiences pretty much mirror yours, although you've got about 10 years on me as I'm 44.

                          But I think we found the "variable" that I was referring to... The build-up could have been in the tank (why can't it be in a plastic tank?) and the lines since those were not cleaned up. Really, if you think about, it's the most logical explanation for it.

                          Plus, it's probably not fair to take a single experience and contradict an entire line of product when that product is specifically made to keep the gas from going bad and varnishing. Especially when there are SO MANY positive results from this stuff. There HAD to be something else going on that caused your issue.

                          I don't think the formula has changed - I've been using it ever since it came on the market... maybe 8-odd years? I use it in every single gas engine that I own, including many small engines.

                          My father? He doesn't seem to believe me. So every Winter when he goes to start his snowblower (which is, of course, usually the same day that the storm comes... it's never ahead of time!), it doesn't run well. He calls me... I come over... clean it out... runs great... I remind him to use Startron (just my personal favorite). This has been going on for 4 years, now, ever since he finally broke down and bought one. My snowblower? Starts like a champ every time.
                          2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
                          1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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                          • #14
                            Sorry, Sta-bil, never used Star-Tron (brain fart)..(fixed the above post)

                            I don't remember the color(red maybe??), its been awhile.

                            I'm 58 now.

                            When I clean a carb, the gas tank gets dumped and cleaned FIRST.
                            I won't even bother trying to start it if it comes in NOT running and fuel smells stale.

                            9.5 times out of 10 the fuel system is at fault and high speed and low speed fuel settings need to be richened up to run right. Dump (and catch what comes out) the tank and at least pull the bowl depending on the machine.

                            Weedeaters, chain saws, etc are diaphragms and as you probably know are way more
                            susceptible to bad gas. I have several rolls (different sizes-about $100 worth that'll last me many years) of E15 resistant fuel line (the yellow stuff).

                            I tell all my customers (small client base) to run em dry and do NOT leave fuel in them (even treated fuel) as it breaks down the fuel lines (the small usually yellow, 4.5mm or 5mm) MUCH faster...
                            Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 10-07-2016, 05:37 PM.
                            Scott
                            1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                            • #15
                              Here's my list of toys that receive absolutely no snake oil at all and everything runs perfect
                              1994 200 hp Yamaha
                              2006 280 sundancer twin 5.0's mpi's
                              1968 chevy elco 540 big block
                              1970 amc amx 390 4 spd
                              1988 gta Pontiac 383 ci tpi
                              2001hd road king 95 "
                              2004 road glide 124" ss motor
                              2003 texas chopper 107" s&s motor
                              2002 duramax diesel
                              2001 gmc sierra 8.1
                              1988 jeep wrangler with a 5.3 ls engine.
                              And a boatload of lawn equipment. tractors, blowers, leaf blowers , snow blowers. several generators. gas compressors. yada yada yada.

                              Clean gas....ethanol only in my area .... drain it when your done if possible

                              For the record I'm 65 and been doin this for a while
                              Last edited by scofflaw; 10-07-2016, 06:10 PM.

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