F4MLHY; 5Yr. Storage/Startup

[larsen.d]

I have a 2000 model, F4MLHY that has been stored inside for 5 years. It was last used in salt water,1/2 Hr.run time, with about 12 hours on it total. I changed the lower unit oil, the engine oil, and added fogging oil after flushing it out after last use. Ran the engine using fogging oil into air intake until carb. gas was exhausted.

I am ready to use it again. I have read what to do to an engine that has sat up.
Do you'll think I really need to change the water pump impeller with only 12 hours on it. It may have gotten hard just with age. Store inside in A/C.

Most importantly I am thinking of rotating the engine through 3 axis so the crankcase oil will saturate all the internal parts. I know that some may enter the combustion chamber through valves. However, before firing it up I intend to remove plug and saturate cylinder walls with fogging spray, then pull motor through w/o plug slowly at first and then faster to blow out fogging and crankcase oil if any. Should I ground plug wire to engine when pulling it through?

Any thoughts if this is a bad idea and any advice will be appreciated.
12 hours on motor, looks like new except for (varnish)? in tank and need a new fuel line from tank to carb. as at bend it appears cracked.

Thanks, David

[robert graham]

If it was my motor I'd put some fresh gas in the tank and crank it up....sounds like you winterized it just fine. It's doubtful the water pump impeller needs replacement but you could drop the lower unit and look at it just so you'll feel better about it....

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You don't need to ground out the wires when you pull it if the ignition is turned OFF...

Sounds like you did a good job winterizing it. Hopefully none of the left over fuel (even run "dry") didn't clog up anything.

Fogging and then pulling (or throw in some Seafoam) and rotate with the plugs out is that much more insurance and doesn't take long...

I would R&R the WP, 12 years of sitting, it'll likely have a set to it.. Cheap enough insurance for a relatively new motor.

[larsen.d]

Thanks to all. For those reading replies, the motor did not sit up for 12 years, it is 5+ years with about 12 hours on it.
My thanks to all again.
This is a great place and a group of nice people.

[cpostis]

Thanks to all. For those reading replies, the motor did not sit up for 12 years, it is 5+ years with about 12 hours on it.
My thanks to all again.
This is a great place and a group of nice people.

Just a tip that may help:

This helped with a couple of my non-outboard motors that sat for a good period of time, and the neighbor's as well! Chainsaws, tiller, pressure washer, etc.

If you have problems with the motor starting or running poorly try this:

Add Yamaha Ring Free (Townsends highly praised endorsed product) to an empty fuel tank at 2 oz. per gallon fuel (Same ratio as for de-carbing your motor). Best you drain your carburetor bowl, then prime with your primer bulb until full. Let it sit for a good time, I would say at least an hour. Can't hurt if you let it sit overnight.

Ringfree's main purpose is to prevent/remove carbon deposits , don't see why it doesn't dissolve varnish as well?

Try/start the motor again. Each and every time I tried this within five minutes running it drastically improved performance (no lie).

Just a thought!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just a tip that may help:

This helped with a couple of my non-outboard motors that sat for a good period of time, and the neighbor's as well! Chainsaws, tiller, pressure washer, etc.

If you have problems with the motor starting or running poorly try this:

Add Yamaha Ring Free (Townsends highly praised endorsed product) to an empty fuel tank at 2 oz. per gallon fuel (Same ratio as for de-carbing your motor). Best you drain your carburetor bowl, then prime with your primer bulb until full. Let it sit for a good time, I would say at least an hour. Can't hurt if you let it sit overnight.

Ringfree's main purpose is to prevent/remove carbon deposits , don't see why it doesn't dissolve varnish as well?

Try/start the motor again. Each and every time I tried this within five minutes running it drastically improved performance (no lie).

You never posted this before Chuck!!

So my "snake oil" actually worked as I posted?? Hummmm..

And yes, its supposed to clean the fuel system, varnish and all.

I have yet to re-clean a carb that I use RF in regularly.. (since 2007)

[dark_star]

Is ring free the same kind of product as Seafoam ?

[99yam40]

You never posted this before Chuck!!

So my "snake oil" actually worked as I posted?? Hummmm..

And yes, its supposed to clean the fuel system, varnish and all.

I have yet to re-clean a carb that I use RF in regularly.. (since 2007)

do you drain fuel from carbs or leave them full when put away?
If you do not use very often the fuel will evaporate out of the bowls,pump, lines, etc leaving some residue even if it is mainly the oil that was mixed with it

[cpostis]

You never posted this before Chuck!!

So my "snake oil" actually worked as I posted?? Hummmm..

And yes, its supposed to clean the fuel system, varnish and all.

I have yet to re-clean a carb that I use RF in regularly.. (since 2007)

Yeah, just didn't want the negative feedback cause "Non-Outboard Engine", I shouldn't GAS.

As far as the controversy on ratio for "Shock Treatment", I call it de-carbonization"...
I just found an old bottle of "Yamaha Ring Free", not "Yamaha Ring Free Plus".
Here's a pic of the directions:

Note Directions: "SHOCK TREATMENT : 2 oz./gal".

I knew I saw this on a bottle before, NOW CONFIRMED!

[99yam40]

that is the type of info you find on the web that is useful,
not just someone saying it is so, they have proof and show the proof

Now are the older RF and the newer RF plus dosages the same?
if so why did they stop putting that info on the labels?

to the op. water pump impeller can and will get old and deteriorate from just age and come apart at the absolute worse time.
having said that you can get the motor up and running to make sure all else is good before spending the money on new impeller,
but impeller or a kit is not much money.
I bought and installed just an impeller when I got my used C40 because I have no idea when it was replaced last.
turns out that new impeller came apart on me before a year was out.
only thing I can think of was most people get the kit and the one I got was on the shelf for many years before I bought and installed it.

who knows for sure why it lost vanes

[TownsendsFJR1300]

that is the type of info you find on the web that is useful, not just someone saying it is so, they have proof and show the proof

Now are the older RF and the newer RF plus dosages the same?
if so why did they stop putting that info on the labels?

In the other thread that you posted on, confused, etc, I posted a link FROM Yamaha in the SPEC section for the appropriate SHOCK amount. You didn't reply or post back...

As for the old vs new RF, I'm not familiar with the older product and can't say..

Read under SPEC'S, 2nd page:
http://www.simyamaha.com/Yamaha_Yama...ngfr-pl-32.htm

[99yam40]

so it looks like the plus is for E 10 maybe.
PLUS E-10 FUEL ADDITIVE



Ok I see it is in the specs, what about on the bottle

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ok I see it is in the specs, what about on the bottle

On the bottle for re shock (under normal mix on the rear of the bottle), verbatim:

"Shock Treatment: Consult your dealer for the Yamaha Internal Engine Cleaner treatment service"


When I asked my local marine dealer, they had no idea and wasn't even going to bother checking...


.

[99yam40]

that sucks

[TownsendsFJR1300]

that sucks

I buy parts there. They screwed up my engine with the low idle sync and they won't touch it again.

I now run about 12 miles south (Ft Myers Beach) to a Large Yamaha ONLY dealership and will ONLY allow a Master tech (I'll make an appointment) for anything I can't do. (They fixed the low idle and the VERY ROUGH IDLE the other place literally tuned into the engine as I watched) ...

I don't want a newbie learning something on my engine, heck, I can do that!!