Draining 05 50TLRD 2-stroke res

[Justinbrow56]

I was getting ready to take out the boat last night and accidentally grab my gear lube and added it to my two stroke reservoir. I added maybe a shot glass worth into the reservoir. I still would rather drain it and start over. Looking at the diaphragm (2005 50TLRD Yamaha Outboard OIL PUMP Diagram and Parts) which number hose should I disconnect to drain it?

[boscoe99]

Looks like 22 or 39 should do it.

[DennisG01]

One of the hoses is basically vent. The other one goes to your injection pump - remove that one, ideally at the pump (just in case any of the heavier oil made it's way into the hose - although I think that's being a little nit-picky).

But, since you didn't run it, you could also just suck out the oil from the tank. Considering how little gear lube you put in there to begin with, sucking out should more than suffice.

[cpostis]

I was getting ready to take out the boat last night and accidentally grab my gear lube and added it to my two stroke reservoir. I added maybe a shot glass worth into the reservoir. I still would rather drain it and start over. Looking at the diaphragm (2005 50TLRD Yamaha Outboard OIL PUMP Diagram and Parts) which number hose should I disconnect to drain it?

IMO and If it were me, I'd remove the tank, empty, flush and clean and reinstall. Does not look too difficult.

[Justinbrow56]

I was personally thinking hose 39, doesnt look hard to get to.

I also thought about removing it and cleaning it. I dont have much experience with outboards, this is my first boat. Just the two bolts and it should pull away. My one concern is when I start to detach all the hoses on the reservoir will I have oil coming out everywhere?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

But, since you didn't run it, you could also just suck out the oil from the tank. Considering how little gear lube you put in there to begin with, sucking out should more than suffice.

Agreed ^^^^. just suck out what's in there.

If not, your going to have to bleed, run premix for awhile, etc..

IMO, R&Ring the tank, way too much trouble for a very simple fix..

[pstephens46]

Harbor Freight sell a couple cheap oil transfer pumps that should work for that.

[cpostis]

Agreed ^^^^. just suck out what's in there.

If not, your going to have to bleed, run premix for awhile, etc..

IMO, R&Ring the tank, way too much trouble for a very simple fix..

Not to argue, but this is so simple. A couple of bolts, one electrical connection, and a few hoses. Just don't let the hose that feeds the pump drain and you don't have to bleed and run on pre-mix.

Now what's the viscosity of the gear oil vs. the two stroke oil. Do you drain from the top or the bottom, what will be residual at the end?

IMO, do what I say to be sure.

[99yam40]

Not to argue, but this is so simple. A couple of bolts, one electrical connection, and a few hoses. Just don't let the hose that feeds the pump drain and you don't have to bleed and run on pre-mix.

Now what's the viscosity of the gear oil vs. the two stroke oil. Do you drain from the top or the bottom, what will be residual at the end?

IMO, do what I say to be sure.

I would drain and clean also.

stay away from or at least put down the adult drinks when filling the tank next time

[cpostis]

I would drain and clean also.

stay away from or at least put down the adult drinks when filling the tank next time

Here's diagram and procedure for removing tank. I believe you have model "E". Disregard model M,W.

If you want to just drain the tank (I do not recommend), remove hose # "2" in the lower diagram and let the tank gravity drain (You don't need any pump. If you wanted to use one you probably have a gear case pump for your lower unit you can use). You should do this if you decide to remove the tank anyway as well.

If you decide to remove, clean, and flush the tank (my recommendation); perform the steps as outlined in the procedures. The line that feed your pump is # 17 in the top diagram, and # 4 in the lower diagram when you disconnect this, just keep upright, level, secure, and don't let drain. No biggy in my book. Installation is reverse order.

Might as well check/clean your strainer and check/replace your strainer gasket while you're doing this.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Not to argue, but this is so simple. A couple of bolts, one electrical connection, and a few hoses. Just don't let the hose that feeds the pump drain and you don't have to bleed and run on pre-mix.

Now what's the viscosity of the gear oil vs. the two stroke oil. Do you drain from the top or the bottom, what will be residual at the end?

IMO, do what I say to be sure.

Simply suck it dry, period...

There's many ways to skin a cat, either will work..

[DennisG01]

I think this is a "theory" vs "reality" thing. Often we tend to go overboard when fixing something. In theory, sure, remove it and flush it out. But in reality, sucking it out is MORE than enough. There's a few ounces TOPS of gear lube in there. No big deal. Can it hurt to remove and suck it out? Of course not. It's just not needed.

[cpostis]

I think this is a "theory" vs "reality" thing. Often we tend to go overboard when fixing something. In theory, sure, remove it and flush it out. But in reality, sucking it out is MORE than enough. There's a few ounces TOPS of gear lube in there. No big deal. Can it hurt to remove and suck it out? Of course not. It's just not needed.

Ok guys, I get it.

But to me the difference in jobs is about five minutes for the drain the tank and 20-25 minutes to remove flush and reinstall the tank. Plus, any debris that may have accumulated in the tank over 11 years will be removed.

I guess I'm just more thorough. To each their own.

I can name that tune in ??? seconds

[DennisG01]

Ok guys, I get it.

But to me the difference in jobs is about five minutes for the drain the tank and 20-25 minutes to remove flush and reinstall the tank. Plus, any debris that may have accumulated in the tank over 11 years will be removed.

I guess I'm just more thorough. To each their own.

I can name that tune in ??? seconds

It's not that I'm not thorough in my maintenance, preventative maintenance or any other aspect of boat repair. Far from it, actually. It's just that it's not needed in this case to get rid of the offending oil. However, along the lines of "being 11 years old", it's not a bad idea to clean it out.

On Merc sterndrives, they use a remote, engine-mounted bottle for gear lube (granted, different beast than 2-cycle). I remove that bottle and clean it out every year, even though I don't know of any "printed" maintenance schedule that calls for it. But experience has shown me that the gear lube tends to get goopy and thick in the bottom of that bottle. Meaning, there's a possibility it could clog the hose that leads to the outdrive. Of course, this would only present a problem if there was a leak in the outdrive... BUT, it may keep the alarm from being triggered since the remote bottle may not "go down" on fluid as it should.