Fuel Line, Tank filter to Engine

[gtreanto]

So my flow meter saga continues. The flow meters continue to get clogged from varnish and I have located the source. The fuel lines from the flow meter output to the engine is the culprit. I tap them and sure enough a continual flow of varnish gets dislodged. Since there is no check valve between the engines and flow meters I suspect the varnish is backing into the flow meters. Time to replace the lines.

Is there a Yamaha part number for that fuel line or can I just use standard marine 3/8" fuel line?

[fairdeal]

r can I just use standard marine 3/8" fuel line?

if it was Yamaha hose, I would guess 8 mm - which is closer to 5/16"

[gtreanto]

you're correct its 5/16" Found Shields B1 on ebay

bit more length than I need but it was by far the cheapest. I got messed up since the installer used 3/8" barbs on both ends. Should have used 5/16" on the exit to the engine. Should have measured it before I asked.

[cpostis]

bit more length than I need but it was by far the cheapest. I got messed up since the installer used 3/8" barbs on both ends. Should have used 5/16" on the exit to the engine. Should have measured it before I asked.

Even if you use Non-ethanol gas, Be sure whatever fuel line use end using is "Ethanol Safe" One time you wind up using Ethanol gas will mess you up again. Not all fuel lines sold are "Ethanol Safe". Should say something like "For use with ethanol blend gasolines". I can't recall the exact term?

[gtreanto]

I picked up Shields Silverado 4000 Type B1-15

Should be fine for ethanol.

[throrope]

A good friend humbly recanted his advice on a specific ethanol resistant fuel hose when he found the lining delaminated after two years. The ethanol resistance rating I read is based on 10% ethanol. Unfortunately, ethanol is hydroscopic and can pull water from the air, which can then fall out of the gasoline and collect at the bottom of the tank and subject everything to more than 10%, or beyond ratings.

When I understood our difficulties, I found replacing everything upstream of the motor was cheaper than a failed trip.

I'm not following your "flow meters". Is this upstream of the fuel connection at the motor? If so, using 3/8" is fine, especially since you have 3/8" barbs. If you don't have one, consider adding a water separating 10 micron fuel filter. Since dirt can't read, the manufacturer isn't important.

After reading my friends recant, I went one more and use 3/8" copper for all but the short lengths at the motor and tank. Now replacing the remaining flexible fuel hose takes ten minutes and ten bucks.

[DennisG01]

You mentioned "The fuel lines from the flow meter output to the engine is the culprit". Is there a reason you don't think the line from the flow meter back to the tank is also not a cause for concern? And on that note, wouldn't the tank also be a concern? Ethanol will loosen up years of varnish buildup, especially fuel that hasn't been treated on a regular basis or at least used up in a relatively short period of time.

[gtreanto]

I replaced the upstream 10 micron filters, the old filters looked fine

I then replaced the hoses to the input to the flow meters. The old filters looked good so I don't think the tank is an issue. Plus the input of each flow meter has a screen filter that would block what I am seeing.

I decided to look downstream and sure enough those hoses had all the varnish buildup. Again since there is no inline check valve the fuel is allowed to backup when the engines stop. This is bringing the varnish into the flow meters from its unfiltered exit side.

Since I have twin outboards, copper lines are not an option.

[gtreanto]

The final fix and some pictures

I replaced the fuel lines from the flow meters to the engines. The lines go throw a flexible conduit from the stern exit to each engine. The conduits had water in them and cause the fuel lines to swell. Not sure how much longer they would have lasted..

I sectioned the fuel lines and the varnish was through out the line.

I hooked up an air hose to spin the flow meters. I then put an oscilloscope and my Fluke meter on the purple wire and got the output of a working flow meters.

Now the pictures

Swollen fuel line:



Sectioned fuel line showing the varnish




Fluke Meter set to HZ:



Hantek PC O Scope output:

[gtreanto]

More pictures

Air hose setup to spin the flow meters:



Fuel Management displaying port and starboard flow meters working:

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Now that you've got the lines, issue fixed, you may consider a fuel stabilizer and using Yamaha's Ring Free.

Using both will stop the varnish and should stop the effects of the ethanol.

Even better is not using ethanol BUT still with the additives. (There's numerous recent threads here about fuel additives)...


I had marine grade (Mercury line as I re-call) fuel line installed (when I re-powered on 2007) break down internally. It was from the transom fuel/water separator to the under cowl filter. The internal lining let loose and I just happened to catch it doing normal maintenance. Once I pulled out that piece, that inner lining was slimy and pulled out like a wet, thin noodle...(Nasty)

[gtreanto]

Since I purchased the boat in May

I've been using Sta-Bil 360 with every fill up. I use it on all my lawn equipment also. Every gas can I have I use it. No sense in running it just for the fall. Not that expensive to use it all the time. Also I don't have to worry about running the engine in the fall for the stabilizer to run through.

This issue was a left over from the previous owner.

BTW how do you like your FJR.. Seems to be the best all around ST bike out there. I have a Ducati ST3 which I like since its the lightest ST out there. But it doesn't have all the bells and whistles of a FJR..

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I've been using Sta-Bil 360 with every fill up. I use it on all my lawn equipment also. Every gas can I have I use it. No sense in running it just for the fall. Not that expensive to use it all the time. Also I don't have to worry about running the engine in the fall for the stabilizer to run through.

This issue was a left over from the previous owner.

BTW how do you like your FJR.. Seems to be the best all around ST bike out there. I have a Ducati ST3 which I like since its the lightest ST out there. But it doesn't have all the bells and whistles of a FJR..

There's a very recent thread about stabilizers(I don't care for Stabil)-but that's something else..

**An interesting read you want to look at:
http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...r-th27479.html


Anyway, I had an 04, first gen. I loved the bike but it threw way too much heat on the rider, especially down here in Florida. Couldn't ride it half the year. They've since addressed it and done a WHOLE bunch of upgrades, etc.

I don't do anymore LD riding so I have my 2007 Yamaha FZ6 which is by far my favorite. Upright seating, slightly de-tuned R6 engine, upright seating, great all around bike...

[gtreanto]

Another reason I like the ST3, not much heat

being thrown. I also have a '07 Monster S4RS which I love and can't get enough of it. I tend to ride from March to about the middle of December when we get our first snow. We have the opposite issue as you do. We can get a few day approaching 100 but they are few and far between. I do like this time of the year to ride. Not too cold and the the bikes just love the dense air. We did a 300mi ride on Saturday. Really nice but not quite peak foliage. Going hiking in the White Mountains next weekend which should be perfect leaf viewing.

BTW I have used Sta-Bil and Star-Tron for years and never had an issue. YMMV..

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yep, its getting nice down here now... Very tolerable weather, 75F right now at 11:30am

Is your Monster close to the 1100? I ask in that I make helmet lock brackets for the 1100.....