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Used Rydlyme today

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  • Used Rydlyme today

    I have a 90hp 2000 Yamaha outboard mainly used in salt water. I bought the boat and engine about 2 years ago from a seller along the Florida shore. The engine has always run well but I wondered about whether the salt and crud had effected the cooling passages for water. Yesterday I pumped Rydlyme through it for 3 hours. It is amazing how much crud came out. Cost about $40 dollars but I am glad I did this.

    It is hard to find something today that really works as advertised!

  • #2
    I agree - it definitely does what it is supposed to do!

    We actually had a discussion about this a few days ago, centering around what chemicals are safe for aluminum (most seem to at least "etch" it). What are your thoughts on this? Did you do any comparison of various areas before and after?

    http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...e-th27360.html Of note is the later half of the thread.
    2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
    1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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    • #3
      Stay the hell away from ticks and there is no reason to use rydlyme.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by DennisG01 View Post
        I agree - it definitely does what it is supposed to do!

        We actually had a discussion about this a few days ago, centering around what chemicals are safe for aluminum (most seem to at least "etch" it). What are your thoughts on this? Did you do any comparison of various areas before and after?

        http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...e-th27360.html Of note is the later half of the thread.
        Yes, what does the interior of the block now look like?

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        • #5
          I used Rydlyme about 4 years back and posted up a thread on it. Based on what I could see of the interior (with Thermostats out and PRV out) I couldn’t see any ill effects. Interior passage ways appeared painted and unscathed after the treatment, they were also pretty clean. I also bought an anode and dropped in the same 50/50 Rydlyme solution I used. After a couple of hours, the surface was discolored and etched very slightly from what I remember. It had a very minor effect on it.

          Having said that, acid and aluminum don’t mix. Acid on the surface of painted aluminum, not so bad.

          I just sold the boat and motor and it’s was still running great.

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          • #6
            CentralTexas and OP , did you see any black stuff coming out when you used it?

            Had someone say they did on another thread
            Last edited by 99yam40; 09-17-2016, 12:37 PM.

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            • #7
              No black stuff. From what I remember it was chalky colored, probably from the calcium and lime deposits.

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              • #8
                Texas mentioned that it appears his interior passageways were painted. If most of his engine's passageways were painted, and the other gentleman's were not, that would be an easy explanation for why Texas had no black stuff, but the other guy did?
                2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
                1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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                • #9
                  I would be very suprized if the cooling passages in the block were painted in any outboard motor
                  Head maybe and covers because of how thin they are

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
                    I would be very suprized if the cooling passages in the block were painted in any outboard motor
                    Head maybe and covers because of how thin they are
                    I was kinda thinking the same thing. Any engine I've ever had apart wasn't painted on the inside. It would certainly explain the difference if it was, though. Or, maybe it was just that the acid wasn't in there long enough to really start reacting with the Al - in other words, long enough to get some scaling out, but not entirely through the scaling to the bare Al.
                    2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
                    1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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                    • #11
                      I can't speak for the small passages in the block. You can see what I was talking about by looking at the pictures I took of the block side where the thermostat sits. It was painted Yamaha blue as far as I could see. Same was true inside the lower water jacket where the PRV is.

                      http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...g-th19434.html

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                      • #12
                        Looking at the Material Safety Data Sheet for Rydlyme says it's about 10% hydrochloric/muriatic acid solution. I have flushed my motor in a 55 gallon drum with the motor running while adding muriatic acid(Home Depot) to the water in the drum until mineral/calcium deposits are evident on the surface of the water/acid solution....after cleaning it's easy and recommended to neutralize water/acid solution with bicarbonate of soda or similar base. Not trying to steal Rydlyme's thunder but just saying muriatic from Home Depot is more cost effective, especially if you want/need to flush on a regular basis....

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