1998 115 Overheating issue

[DennisG01]

did anyone see in any of the other threads on Rydlyme use see anything about black crud coming out?

This thread got me wondering about doing an acid flush as preventative maintenance. I saw that Rydlyme contains HCL and I know that HCL doesn't play well with aluminum, so I started doing some Googling. I came across some YouTube videos where guys were "experimenting" with HCL by pouring it in a jar that had a piece of aluminum foil in it. Within a few minutes, it started to violently react, dissolving the foil. The clear liquid started turning very black, as well.

Now, I'm sure this "experimenting" was done with a higher concentration of HCL. But it is still one of those things that makes me go "Hmmmmm". I'm wondering is something like white vinegar wouldn't be just as effective, and safer? Maybe it would just need to circulate longer?

[cpostis]

This thread got me wondering about doing an acid flush as preventative maintenance. I saw that Rydlyme contains HCL and I know that HCL doesn't play well with aluminum, so I started doing some Googling. I came across some YouTube videos where guys were "experimenting" with HCL by pouring it in a jar that had a piece of aluminum foil in it. Within a few minutes, it started to violently react, dissolving the foil. The clear liquid started turning very black, as well.

Now, I'm sure this "experimenting" was done with a higher concentration of HCL. But it is still one of those things that makes me go "Hmmmmm". I'm wondering is something like white vinegar wouldn't be just as effective, and safer? Maybe it would just need to circulate longer?

Just a point of information.
Dennis, I looked at Rydlyme's contents as well. Yes it does contain hydrochloric acid, and yes it does attack aluminum, and yes that's where the black comes from. I would never use it in my Yammy, IMO.
What I did find is Nu-Calgon Eco-Lyme de-scaler. It contains methane sulfonic acid, and does not attack aluminum. I did not recirculate, but used it on parts I removed from my motor. It did not completely remove/dissolve deposits, but did soften them for easier scraping removal. But you know what, simple mineral spirits softened the deposits just as well.

Again, IMO, scraping is the only way to descale properly.

[cpostis]

Just a point of information.
Dennis, I looked at Rydlyme's contents as well. Yes it does contain hydrochloric acid, and yes it does attack aluminum, and yes that's where the black comes from. I would never use it in my Yammy, IMO.
What I did find is Nu-Calgon Eco-Lyme de-scaler. It contains methane sulfonic acid, and does not attack aluminum. I did not recirculate, but used it on parts I removed from my motor. It did not completely remove/dissolve deposits, but did soften them for easier scraping removal. But you know what, simple mineral spirits softened the deposits just as well.

Again, IMO, scraping is the only way to descale properly.

By the way, in regards to Salt-Away...
IMO it does not dissolve salt deposits, it is a corrosion inhibitor. See the MSD content info:

* 3 Composition/information on ingredients Non-Hazardous Surface Active Agents 5-10% 65997-01-5 Corrosion Inhibitor 5-10% Non-Hazardous Coupling Agents 5-10% 7732-18-5 water, distilled, conductivity or of similar purity 70-90%

Probably great for corrosion prevention, not so good for dissolving mineral deposits? Maybe it will help prevent deposits from sticking to surfaces?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

By the way, in regards to Salt-Away...
IMO it does not dissolve salt deposits, it is a corrosion inhibitor. See the MSD content info:

* 3 Composition/information on ingredients Non-Hazardous Surface Active Agents 5-10% 65997-01-5 Corrosion Inhibitor 5-10% Non-Hazardous Coupling Agents 5-10% 7732-18-5 water, distilled, conductivity or of similar purity 70-90%

Probably great for corrosion prevention, not so good for dissolving mineral deposits? Maybe it will help prevent deposits from sticking to surfaces?

Thanks for that info Chuck!

IMO, anything that helps stay ahead of this issue is worth it..

BTW, I did speak with the company (Salt Away) and she specifically said it'd wash away all salt deposits on the boat, engine etc.


From their web site (for what its worth):

Salt-Away is a water-based, non-hazardous, biodegradable solution and contains properties that dissolve, release and remove salt crystals from any surface. Water alone does not remove all the salt from a surface. Use of Salt-Away does not correct past damage but will work to protect against salt corrosion and reduces costly repairs caused by salt. Salt-Away breaks apart and removes salt accumulation with repeated use.





.

[DennisG01]

Thanks, Chuck. I'll look into that stuff, along with maybe just trying a vinegar solution. I'll take a look at the t-stat housing area, before and after. I agree about the "scrape" method - I'm just thinking that, depending on the current level of deposits, an annual or semi-annual acid flush might keep the deposits down so a full-on "scrape" isn't needed.

I think Salt Away's big thing is that it's designed as a "maintenance" program to remove freshly deposited stuff, not so much layers and layers of caked on crap. Meaning, if it's used on a regular basis, it should keep deposits from forming.

[cpostis]

contains properties that dissolve, release and remove salt crystals from any surface. Water alone does not remove all the salt from a surface. Use of Salt-Away does not correct past damage but will work to protect against salt corrosion and reduces costly repairs caused by salt. Salt-Away breaks apart and removes salt accumulation with repeated use.

THW chemicals, just wrap this around your water tube and done!!! No more deposits ever!!!
Being my sarcastic self.



MagnaWrap Home Water Conditioner Model MWH

[TownsendsFJR1300]

THW chemicals, just wrap this around your water tube and done!!! No more deposits ever!!!

ORDERED!!!!

IME, when we did my neighbors 200 engine, that salt was HARD. Not rock hard but it isn't brushing off. One of those, thin wire brushes(skinny, bristles on the OUTSIDE EDGE) for a drill motor would be a big help once the heavy stuff is off...

[DennisG01]

THW chemicals, just wrap this around your water tube and done!!! No more deposits ever!!!

I'm getting one of those, too! I saw it advertised online so it MUST be good!

[99yam40]

I don't remember anything about black crud... Salt build up obviously wouldn't be black as it dissolves...

makes me wonder if it was the marine grade that he used

[TownsendsFJR1300]

makes me wonder if it was the marine grade that he used

Dunno.

I just read the other thread where the Op flushed for 3 hours and NO black crud...

[batfish1]

Hello Everyone. Update since my last thread. I pulled the starboard head cover and head because I suspected this might be the one with the worse build up. It seemed to run the hotter of the two. I saw no blockages and only minor salt build up, so I am guessing the Rydlyme flush did some good. I still cleaned it the best that I could. Also, Per cpostis suggestion I pulled the exhaust cover and it was pretty clean as well and no blockages.

When I replaced the pressure control valve before, the parts place sent me a different looking valve. The original one had an X shaped tail on each end of the valve. The one I received has a button head on one end with an X shaped tail on the other. I contacted the parts place and was told this was a replacement for the original part per the manufacturer. When putting the part in I put the tail piece in the rubber grommet towards the inside of the motor and the button head towards the spring. Was this the right way to put it in? Could this have been causing the overheat at WOT if it wasn't opening up? Any other suggestions would be welcomed!

[cpostis]

When I replaced the pressure control valve before, the parts place sent me a different looking valve. The original one had an X shaped tail on each end of the valve. The one I received has a button head on one end with an X shaped tail on the other. I contacted the parts place and was told this was a replacement for the original part per the manufacturer. When putting the part in I put the tail piece in the rubber grommet towards the inside of the motor and the button head towards the spring. Was this the right way to put it in? Could this have been causing the overheat at WOT if it wasn't opening up? Any other suggestions would be welcomed!

Not right way to put it in. see below and link.
Part # 60H-12416-00-00KIT

Superseded from Part # 6G5-12416-00-00

New style pressure valve. Replaces all previous. When installing, the mushroom-round end gets installed in towards the powerhead. The spring gets installed on the cross end of the valve.

PRESSURE CONTROL VALVE KIT

From what I have seen from other posts, if pcv is stuck open, will cause low RPM overheat. Others should comment.

[batfish1]

Thanks for the link cpostis on putting in the new pressure valve!