Beginner needs help finding a manual for Yam 55 BET

[99yam40]

Just checked, or rather, tried to check the resistance on the stator coil. Came up with naught at all. Zero resistance between "blue and brown" wires, which according to the page we use, should be around 280ish or something.

Zero ohms would mean a short.
infinite resistance would be very high resistance
if you get some voltage reading out I do not see how if it is open or shorted

[cpostis]

PM'd.

Thanks for that.

Sent, Let me know if get it and can open the attachment.

[m4inbrain]

Yeah, worked. Brilliant. Exactly what i needed, thank you very much for that.

@99yam, i can only tell you what the multimeter tells me. There's zero resistance. There's not even a hickup, it flatout doesn't measure any resistance.

I'll hopefully come around to open it tomorrow, as i said, don't have a 30mm nut for the impact wrench flying around here - and even if i had, the flywheel puller doesn't fit.

I'm starting to wonder if one of the coils (the system in that engine looks rather "old school") has unwound. There's something that's nagging me anyway, because the guy said he had two car batteries in the boat, and considering in what state the electrics were (we ripped every single bit out on the first day of owning it), i wonder if he overheated it.

[pstephens46]

Are you using an auto-ranging meter?

[99yam40]

as I said 0 is less than 1 ohm
means very low resistance
dead short or close to it

no connection would be high resistance,
open /no connection

[cpostis]

Maybe that helps. Don't mind the two ugly blokes.

The ugly bloke on the right looks just like my EX-father-in-law!

But anyway, looking closer at your pic, I'm sure you'll neaten up and bundle your control cables, battery cables, wiring harness, and fuel line going to the motor! Eventually you may wish to put them inside a "rigging hose". Make sure your steering cable operates smooth without binding. Do a good lookover on your trailer too. Nothing worse than getting all ready for a run in the water, and having been stranded by a trailer failure. You did say this is your first boat, so the friendly advice.

Can't wait to hear how your boat/motor runs out on the water mates!

[m4inbrain]

Funny that you say that, because he also looks like me future father in law :P

Steering cable is knackered, we already removed it. Ripped somewhere in the middle. That picture was taken when we first parked it behind the house, since then we ripped out the entire electrics, steering, gauges (didn't work either) etc. It'll be a lot of work, that's why we bought it. Having something to do after work etc, just doing her up nicely.

In regards to the Multimeter, i actually don't know since it's not mine, i just know that he's using it to repair Diesel Engines for Arriva at work. I'm rather sure that he knows what and how he's measuring there, i'm just relaying the numbers.

[cpostis]

Mr. Bosco, CIA Question?

It's a Yamaha 55 BET, 663 L 721054. I don't know the year of fabrication,

Boscoe, your the one with the secret intelligence (Don't Kill Me).

Look at the attachment under "Starting Serial #'s" for m4inbrain's motor. I see "-" for "S", "721947~" for "L". This is from a E48T, C55T service manual (model year 1994).
Does "S" stand for starting serial #, "L" for last serial # in the model year?
Can you decipher this and tell us if m4inbrain's model number falls in a 1994 model year or otherwise?

Thanks!

[m4inbrain]

Well.. I found one inaccuracy on that manual already. Can't tell if it's because the preowner changed it, or there's differences: the manual states that there's an M10 nut holding the flywheel. We got an M20. I'm putting that down to model year, can't really tell though.

I also don't understand why outboard designations have to be so complicated, hmph.

[boscoe99]

Boscoe is out of the country now. When I get home Friday I will respond further.

But, no, S does not mean starting and L does not mean last.

S means a short shaft length. L means a long shaft length.

[cpostis]

Well.. I found one inaccuracy on that manual already. Can't tell if it's because the preowner changed it, or there's differences: the manual states that there's an M10 nut holding the flywheel. We got an M20. I'm putting that down to model year, can't really tell though.

I also don't understand why outboard designations have to be so complicated, hmph.

That has to be an misprint/error in the manual, especially with a torque spec of 116 ft/pounds (also in the manual).

Looking at the part for that motor in the manual, it looks to be m20.
Look at the pic with the ruler measurement (inches, not mm) in the link. Yamaha publications are not perfect.

90170-20137-00 YAMAHA NUT,HEXAGON

[cpostis]

That has to be an misprint/error in the manual, especially with a torque spec of 116 ft/pounds (also in the manual).

Looking at the part for that motor in the manual, it looks to be m20.
Look at the pic with the ruler measurement (inches, not mm) in the link. Yamaha publications are not perfect.

90170-20137-00 YAMAHA NUT,HEXAGON

Did a little checking on electrical parts.
Found most C55 parts same between 1989 and 1994. This includes pulsar coils, charge coil, trigger coil, rotor assembly (flywheel), and CDI.

I did find that ignition coils could be different. 1992-1994 different than 1989-1991.

So, I believe most of the specs in the manual I sent you should be good for you.

When my CIA guy (Boscoe99, aka Agent 99) gets back home, I'm hoping he can positively identify your motor model year.

[m4inbrain]

Cheers mate, much appreciated.

Most stuff, like doing a service on the engine, works - which is important since i'd have no idea where to check what, refill levels etc.

Tomorrow (british sunshine today and boat doesn't fit garage to work on) the top comes off, to inspect the coils amongst other things.

[m4inbrain]

Small update, got the engine open now.

This is what we saw:



It's safe to assume that this would be a problem, no?

[m4inbrain]

Another small update: soldered it for testing purposes (we'll get a new one to be on the safe side, was just to see if it sparks) - got spark. In fact, the engine ran for a couple of seconds, it doesn't hold idle though. Bit of revs, it keeps running, but in idle, it dies shortly after.

Will do a complete service, checking fuel filter etc, and settings in general like idle screw (i'm assuming it has one), timing etc. But our money is on clogged fuel lines (mind, the engine stood for a long time) or something similar, because it didn't start from the get go - we had to "encourage" it with some carb clean in the cylinder. Once it fired up for the first time, we were able to start it every time via key.

And absolutely loving it.