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Yamaha 15 2 stroke Enduro 2006 crank oil seal

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  • Yamaha 15 2 stroke Enduro 2006 crank oil seal

    Not sure if the part is oil seal housing or manifold extension. It is a casting where the shaft slides into the power head. The motor had been siezing when stored. When I went to remove lower unit I needed wedges, when done this part is shattered, what was left of it after corrosion anyway. This is used in salt water.
    How hard is this to replace? Do I need to split the motor?

  • #2
    A FULL MODEL # please..

    Is it part #1 here:

    2006 and Later 15MSH Yamaha Outboard CRANKSHAFT PISTON Diagram and Parts

    IF that is the correct part, it looks like with the power head off the mid section, ONE bolt holds it in.. There's seals and a bearing there(definitely replace the seals).

    So NO, the engine cases doesn't need to be split..
    Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 09-05-2016, 08:08 PM.
    Scott
    1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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    • #3
      you may want to take it apart to inspect the crank and other bearing if that was rusted up that bad.
      Just a thought

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      • #4
        Well, we don't know for certain if that bearing IS the issue.

        Certainly spin the bearing(looks like a roller bearing?) while your there. You'll get a good idea of its condition and go from there.
        Scott
        1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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        • #5
          when I took my C40 apart due to some noise that kept getting louder, I found I had 3 of the 4 main bearings with rust pits.

          apparently there was moisture that had gotten into the crankcase somewhere down the line.
          hard to check all of those bearings on the shaft without splitting the case.

          if there was that much corrosion to that housing I would consider having a look.

          I guess if the drive shaft rusted into the crank only then maybe moisture did not get past the oil seals. who knows for sure until you gave a look see

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          • #6
            Especially so if the engine wasn't stored(but we don't that one way or the other) correctly, ie, fogging, etc.


            We just replaced an alternator for a Ford explorer that was starting to make some not good mechanical noise. With the alternator mounted, some slight roughness and a little noise. (obviously louder with the engine running)

            Once out, it was obvious the REAR bearing was shot as the noise was really bad when the alternator was held / spun, pulley side down..
            Scott
            1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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            • #7
              More info

              The housing seemed to corrode and jam the shaft. The upper area of the shaft is clean. I am wondering if this needs replacement, it seems to be there to keep water splash out, I could use a rubber hose but it would not be as tight.

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              • #8
                not sure what you are talking about replacing with a rubber hose

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                • #9
                  If that "plate" corroded enough to seize up the engine, it needs replacing..

                  As for replacing something with a rubber hose, like 99, not quite sure what you mean..

                  Can you post some pic's? Just curious..
                  Scott
                  1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                  • #10
                    Please advise how to post a picture.

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                    • #11
                      Open a reply
                      scroll down to Manage attachments
                      click that button
                      and find the file you want to post

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                      • #12
                        Photo of damaged part

                        Photo attached
                        Attached Files

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                        • #13
                          Pretty rough......

                          Did the link I posted above look like your engine?

                          If it does, start soaking around the area with a penetrant (NOT W40).

                          Looking at the parts picture, it doesn't appear to go deep into the rest of the block.

                          I'd think, gently smacking the side (where the bolt goes and housing sticks out) with a long
                          extension should pop it loose..
                          Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 09-07-2016, 05:40 AM.
                          Scott
                          1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            not the first one ever replaced due to corrosion.
                            remove it, inspect the lower bearing.
                            go from there.

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