Forced a seized Shift Rod Connector Nut - Popped Shift Arm of of Socket

[vb2oc0371]

’08 Yamaha 25hp ESH (2 stroke)

To help understand the location of the parts I’m talking about, I’ve added numeric references that can be matched up to the diagram at the bottom of this post.

I was taking the LU off of my Yamaha 25hp ESH to change the impeller.
Unfortunately, the Shift Rod Connector nut (#37) was seized. I applied torch heat, and turned. Repeated heat and turn till it finally came loose. But..it the process, the Shift Rod (#36) became disconnected from the Shift Rod Lever (#21). My fault because I applied too much force trying to free the connector nut and it popped out (or something broke). So now the Shift Rod floats freely, not connected to anything. Here’s a pic of the shift rod in it’s free floating state. It won’t slide out completely, so that leads me to believe that’s it’s not broken at the 90 degree bend up top of the rod:



I’ve not done this repair before, so before I start removing components to get to the shift arm and lever, I want to see if there’s any known gotchas. Here’s the location of the shift arm and lever with all engine’s components in place. It’s sitting just under the lower carburetor assembly, but the shift rod itself isn’t visible.



It looks like I may be able to access the shift arm & lever by removing the Throttle Wire Stay (#1) and disconnecting the Magneto Control Lever (#6) from the Joint (#11). Will that do the trick, or will I have to remove the carburetor assembly as well? Also, how does the Shift Rod Arm (#34) factor into the connectivity of the Shift Rod Shift Rod Lever? It’s hard to understand from studying the diagram, and I want to prepare for the possible whatever work is necessary, or additional parts that I’ll need in case something is truly broken instead of simply being disconnected.



I give my trusty mechanic plenty of business with my other engines, but I think I can tackle this one with a little coaching.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

[rodbolt17]

it is pretty easy.
remove the powerhead,repair the broken pieces reinstall the powerhead.
continue on.

now you know why Yamaha says once per year OR every 200 hours to inspect the water pump.
a dollop o grease would have prevented this post.

[zenoahphobic]

I would spend sometime "looking" at the engine before going down the remove powerhead path.
I would light up the area at whatever angles required and use a small mirror on an extended shaft and try to get a view of the area.
Use a modern technology such small camera, bore scope etc and bright thin LEDs if you have to.
A small investment in such modern tools for this purpose will come in handy elsewhere if you are inclined to be a tinkerer and have a go type of person (and an intelligent person that resists immediately pulling apart things without fully inspecting first).

[rodbolt17]

you can LOOK all you wish.
wont fix it.
I get to do a couple of these issues every year.
and that spring, part 32, inspect it carefully.
they break.
they require powerhead removal to repair also.