Spanner wrench?

[pstephens46]

At some point this fall, I need to remove the cap from one of my trim cylinders to replace a leaking o-ring. ( I hope) 2005 F150 TXRD..

I hate to buy a $60-$100 wrench for this rare task. But it does need to work properly as I hear it is torqued very tightly. Any recommendations?

[boscoe99]

It is not that it is torqued so tightly (57.5 pound-feet) but rather that over time corrosion sets in and tries to weld the two parts together.

There are all sorts of spanner tools available with many being made by the owners of the motor. One guy used a large crescent wrench to which he drilled and tapped it for pins.

4-stroke Yamaha Trim Wrench

https://www.google.com/search?q=yama...HXHqCcYQsAQIUg

[amahaork]

You may not need that wrench at all. I used punch to unscrew caps(glands).
and I already had on hand new glands (but ho wrench), I re-used old ones, with help of same punch. it may look like holes damaged a little, but who cares. and returned new caps(glands, $20 each) back to dealer store. I been told that normal procedure is to use punch to remove old caps(glands), and use wrench to install new.

[Donnie Coulsting]

I made a spanner wrench from a piece of left over steel and 8mm Allen bolts. Tapped the wrench so the bolts thread into the wrench. Found it works best by tapping the wrench with a hammer. image.jpg

[pstephens46]

I made a spanner wrench from a piece of left over steel and 8mm Allen bolts. Tapped the wrench so the bolts thread into the wrench. Found it works best by tapping the wrench with a hammer. [ATTACH]2693[/ATTACH]

Nice work there. Maybe Townsend can fire up the workshop, After all, the GA and FL coasts will have nothing but rain in the next few days. I don't have a drill press or welding set at this time.. We could ship it back and forth as needed....

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Nice work there. Maybe Townsend can fire up the workshop, After all, the GA and FL coasts will have nothing but rain in the next few days. I don't have a drill press or welding set at this time.. We could ship it back and forth as needed....

I could certainly make one up but not being "hardened", I'd be afraid of a "tough" / stuck cap shearing off the bolts or damaging the cap...


Got a little rain yesterday, overcast and much cooler today! Me likes.

I'll have the MIG welder running tomorrow, swapping out a "wet" wood support (on the lift) for a galvanized one. Should be ONE cut, one bend, and one weld, then treated with galvanized paint.. Sparks a flying!

The last trailer I welded up(built from scratch):


With my FJR1300 and G0ldwing:

[pstephens46]

Still better than pounding on it with a punch! Take your chances.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Still better than pounding on it with a punch! Take your chances.

Sure it would be. I figure the worse case scenario. Is it cheaper / easier to have the right tool and re-use the original cap (if not corroded). OR, chance tearing it up with a homemade tool, then buying waiting on a new cap..

Yes, it'd probably work, and if I needed it tomorrow, I'd make one up just so I don't have to wait..

I'm a "tool-aholic" and have several specialty tools I rarely/never use. IE, a motorcycle chain breaker/riveter... HD, brand name, about $110, used it twice... (when ever the chain wears out or for customers bikes).

Or this Manometer(Carbtune). I use it mostly on the bike, have used it on the F150, paid for itself many times over on customers bikes...

Now you can make your own, but this has NO fluids to spill, super accurate, top of the line tool..

[rodbolt17]

note the use of the PVC pipe to hold the tool down?

mine are AL and I split one to use on the tilt cap.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

note the use of the PVC pipe to hold the tool down?

mine are AL and I split one to use on the tilt cap.

And I gather the top of the aluminum "rod"(no pun intended), somehow fits
the upper end of the shaft , where it would have the horizontal engine mount?

[rodbolt17]

the split one goes between the tilt cap and the pin end of the ram.
the trim one I simply lower the motor and trap the tool.

[boscoe99]

note the use of the PVC pipe to hold the tool down?

mine are AL and I split one to use on the tilt cap.

Maybe try TI.

[FishermanTom]

Sure it would be. I figure the worse case scenario. Is it cheaper / easier to have the right tool and re-use the original cap (if not corroded). OR, chance tearing it up with a homemade tool, then buying waiting on a new cap..

Yes, it'd probably work, and if I needed it tomorrow, I'd make one up just so I don't have to wait..

I'm a "tool-aholic" and have several specialty tools I rarely/never use. IE, a motorcycle chain breaker/riveter... HD, brand name, about $110, used it twice... (when ever the chain wears out or for customers bikes).

Or this Manometer(Carbtune). I use it mostly on the bike, have used it on the F150, paid for itself many times over on customers bikes...

Now you can make your own, but this has NO fluids to spill, super accurate, top of the line tool..

Wish this available back in the early 70's for the Honda 750 4 cylinders!!

[boscoe99]

Wish this available back in the early 70's for the Honda 750 4 cylinders!!

This is the one that you want.

TecMate – VacuumMate Allweather MARINE

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Wish this available back in the early 70's for the Honda 750 4 cylinders!!

I used it on a 750 4 about 2 years ago (customers bike). One carb was WAY OUT. Got them reasonably close but he had a vacuum leak probably around the rubber intake boot. It still ran much better, but he never came back for a freebie fine tune..

As for the Techmate Boscoe, I would probably pass on that one you listed.

I prefer keep it simple, (KISS), no batteries, no electronics to corrode, no liquids, nothing to bump loose, just rubber hose and the unit. You can't go wrong or get jambed up..

I'm sure in some instances, you'd need that specific one.