To quote in this forum?

[pstephens46]

How to quote from a old thread to a current, active thread? Pasting has created confusion......

[ausnoelm]

See that little "quote" button on the bottom right corner???

[pstephens46]

Sure but doesn't that quote back to whichever thread it originates from?

[99yam40]

once you hit the quote button high light the whole thing and hit copy.
then when you open the place you want to put it hit paste

[boscoe99]

once you hit the quote button high light the whole thing and hit copy.
then when you open the place you want to put it hit paste

Like this?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Like this?

No, like this!

To quote or not to quote, THAT is the question!!

[99yam40]

once you hit the quote button high light the whole thing and hit copy.
then when you open the place you want to put it hit paste

Like this?

exactly like that

[boscoe99]

I will call your two and raise you one.

First time on site. Hoping I can get some help. Thanks in advance.

I have a 2001 Yamaha C40TLRZ Outboard. Salt water use. Freshwater flushed every time. Non-ethanol gas.

Had throttle fully open. A 150 yards from slip I throttled down to close to an idle. About 50 yards or so later the buzzer sounded (steady buzz – beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep). Engine ran fine but no stream from tell-tale(?). Let sit for a day. When I turned key once (not to start but just to get electric on) the alarm sounds immediately and doesn’t stop. A day later, same thing so thinking engine can't be overheated still. I drove the boat about a 100 yards from slip to ramp to get it out of the water (idle speed). Alarm sounded the whole time. The engine started shake about half way and continued. Still no stream from the tell-tale.

Bought/installed water pump/impeller kit as well as the exterior pump housing/cover (black plastic piece). Drained and replaced the lower unit oil. Hooked muffs up and engine was peeing strong but the buzzer continued to sound (even when I just turn the key one turn) and the outboard continued to shake.

I’ve read about 100 threads on this but not sure where to start, Poppit(?), thermostat, bad sensor, something else? One thing to note is that I never did take it back up to full throttle after the buzzer went off so not sure if it would go off or not once I did.

Better find and fix the problem. You can melt that powerhead with an overheat alarm

Don't disconnect it.

that is a strange problem as those wires should not ever see enough current to melt the insulation

[99yam40]

I looked for a long time to try and find the way to do multi quotes before just opening up and pulling from other tabs.
Is there a better way that I have not found yet?

You can really confuse someone with pulling in quotes from all over the place

By the way I found reds tailing all over the flats I normally fish this morning.
that was fun sight casting plastic at them, picked up a good flounder also

[pstephens46]

test

ok
you don't understand how to use that meter.
its very simple.

your looking for a voltage DROP not battery voltage.

at the + battery TERMINAL not cable attach one lead using the DC scale. the other lead will go to the + terminal on the starter again the stud not the cable end.
turn on the key, you should see less than .5V,turn the key to start,should still see less than .7v.

now using the same autoranging DC volt scale attach one lead to the - stud at the battery the other to a good block ground.
turn on the key, you should see less than .5 V try starting it and you should still read less than .5v.

if the + wire reads more than .7V start backing up with the lead that was on the starter battery terminal IE battery switch's and such until it reads less than .7 while loaded.

if the - cable reads more than .5V start backing down the - cable looking for junctions and splices that may have failed.

what we are doing is finding the voltage DROP acrossed a resistance.

take the ground wire and visualize the circuit, barring any terminal junctions it is a straight piece of wire from point a (battery stud) to point B the ground wire attachment at the block.
the only resistance in a perfect circuit would be the resistance of the copper,very low.

now when we operate,or try to, the circuit we are using the electrical pressure,measured in volts, to force electrons(amps) down the wire.
if all is perfect the pressure drop from a to b will be a minimal loss maybe .5V or less.
now if we have a bad spot in the cable(a resistance) we may drop 5-8 or more volts ACROSS that resistor.

loose corroded cable to terminal connections can act as a resistor as can bad cables,bad cable to cable end or any junctions between point a and b.

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[pstephens46]

there we go! Thanks