Intermittent Starting on my 2005 150

[elschloss]

Several weeks ago my 2005 150 would not start. Quiet click each time I turned the ignition key. Replaced the battery, checked connections and clicking continued. Towed to Yamaha dealer where a technician experienced the same occurrence. Left the boat at dealer. Received a call a week later saying the engine started right up for them a number of times. They also checked and tightened connections. Said they couldn't diagnose the problem as the boat was starting for them.

Took the boat out yesterday fishing and after several stop and gos the engine would not start and clicking occurred again. After several turns of the key engine started up. Am currently afraid to take the boat out and turn off the engine as afraid will not get back to home base.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem may be? Thanks for any responses.

[fairdeal]

here's one possibility

68V-8194A-00-00 YAMAHA RELAY

[pstephens46]

Wonder if they checked voltage drop between starter and battery? I had same issues and it was a bad connection.

[99yam40]

need to be testing voltage when it will not start,
you should see where it has and where it does not have the proper voltages while under a load

[elschloss]

Thanks for the replies to my situation.

Is the replacement of the relay something that can be done by the amateur mechanic or is a professional mechanic required?

[fairdeal]

IMO, removal/replacement is certainly within the realm of an amateur, although depending on the model engine, the amount of disassembly needed to "dig down to it" varies.

Now, also IMO, the price of the "official" part is a bit steep to replace it only because it "might" be your problem.

But I have seen it offered as an "aftermarket" item at a steep discount...

[pstephens46]

Check voltages when problems are occurring as suggested above. There is a good chance relay is not needed. I have been in same situation and had to learn the hard way! Google voltage drop testing....

[fairdeal]

Check voltages when problems are occurring as suggested above.

With an intermittent problem, that can get interesting...

[pstephens46]

With an intermittent problem, that can get interesting...

One thing for sure, bad connections tend to get worse....so I bet he will have more opportunities coming soon.

I was given the following instructions.....

ok
you don't understand how to use that meter.
its very simple.

your looking for a voltage DROP not battery voltage.

at the + battery TERMINAL not cable attach one lead using the DC scale. the other lead will go to the + terminal on the starter again the stud not the cable end.
turn on the key, you should see less than .5V,turn the key to start,should still see less than .7v.

now using the same autoranging DC volt scale attach one lead to the - stud at the battery the other to a good block ground.
turn on the key, you should see less than .5 V try starting it and you should still read less than .5v.

if the + wire reads more than .7V start backing up with the lead that was on the starter battery terminal IE battery switch's and such until it reads less than .7 while loaded.

if the - cable reads more than .5V start backing down the - cable looking for junctions and splices that may have failed.

what we are doing is finding the voltage DROP acrossed a resistance.

take the ground wire and visualize the circuit, barring any terminal junctions it is a straight piece of wire from point a (battery stud) to point B the ground wire attachment at the block.
the only resistance in a perfect circuit would be the resistance of the copper,very low.

now when we operate,or try to, the circuit we are using the electrical pressure,measured in volts, to force electrons(amps) down the wire.
if all is perfect the pressure drop from a to b will be a minimal loss maybe .5V or less.
now if we have a bad spot in the cable(a resistance) we may drop 5-8 or more volts ACROSS that resistor.

loose corroded cable to terminal connections can act as a resistor as can bad cables,bad cable to cable end or any junctions between point a and b.

[99yam40]

Looks like you got the quoting down 46

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I had the exact same issue on my F150. Clicked 5 times then started. Wouldn't do it again.

Swapped out the starter relay, 10 minute job a half blind man could do. Part was kind of expensive(around $80)

Worked good after that.

Just to confirm, I cut the old one apart. The coil inside that moves worked great, (thus the clicking), the contacts were crappy, (see below) thus no crank(not enough amps/volts to the starter) with the crappy connection:


**Also, if you get stuck, simply jump those two large terminals with a heavy wire and it'll crank(by-passing the cranking part of the ignition switch) I carry a jumper in my tool box just in case, but that IS your issue.

You can see the arcing, especially on the one side, the other not bad So it might have been seeing 6 volts, MAYBE..

[pstephens46]

Looks like you got the quoting down 46

Yep, just blasting away now...

[elschloss]

Thanks..

I would like to thank everyone for your helpful replies. I am going to begin by replacing my relay and keep my fingers crossed that it is the problem.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I would like to thank everyone for your helpful replies. I am going to begin by replacing my relay and keep my fingers crossed that it is the problem.

Well, it'll crank up...

Cut the old one up with a die grinder and peek at the contacts. That WILL confirm the relay went south.

I'm really surprised the shop couldn't figure that out, basic stuff....

Please post back after the old unit gets hacked!