Need Help "Translating" Wiring Diagrams for Battery Switch's

[Poorsche]

It seems like the battery switch wiring on my boat is not typical so I'm asking for some help understanding what Century has done

I've attached the two appropriate Wiring DIagrams Century gave me --

I'd appreciate some feedback about how to use the switches--ONE, TWO, ALL when running and how to set them when hanging at the Sandbar so as not to run down the battery

[pstephens46]

The isolater lead revisited!!

[Poorsche]

The isolater lead revisited!!

Thanks - different question bi t thanks anyway !!

[pstephens46]

How many batteries do you have?

[boscoe99]

I don't see anything battery switch related in any of the diagrams your posted.

What is the model year of the boat?

How many batteries are in the boat?

What model of motors are installed?

How many and what type of battery switches are installed? On/Off type or maybe the 1/2/both/off type?

A "typical" twin engine configuration may have three batteries. One battery for each of the two motors and a third "house" battery devoted to supplying all other electrical devices.

It is desirable to have a system that allows for the third "house" battery to be connected to the electrical generation system any time that a motor is running but which will automatically disconnect that battery when the motor is turned off. That way you can use the house battery to the point that it is completely discharged yet the two start batteries will remain fully charged so as to start the motor when you are ready to go. Once the motors are started they will begin to recharge the house battery.

There are several ways to get there from here.

[Poorsche]

Two - one deep cycle , one starting

[pstephens46]

What engines? That boat normally has two.

[boscoe99]

If your boat has twin engines that have isolator lead capability, here is a Yamaha diagram that depicts a typical battery arrangement.

When the boat is not being used both switches get turned to the OFF position. When using the boat the switches will normally be turned to the number one position. The house battery will automatically be charged when the motors are running and will be separated from the system when they are off. You can run the house battery to depletion. The start batteries will remain fully charged to start the motors.

Should either battery not start its motor you would turn the switch for that motor to the number 2 position. The other start battery would then crank and start the motor.

[Poorsche]

I don't see anything battery switch related in any of the diagrams your posted.

What is the model year of the boat?

How many batteries are in the boat?

What model of motors are installed?

How many and what type of battery switches are installed? On/Off type or maybe the 1/2/both/off type?

A "typical" twin engine configuration may have three batteries. One battery for each of the two motors and a third "house" battery devoted to supplying all other electrical devices.


It is desirable to have a system that allows for the third "house" battery to be connected to the electrical generation system any time that a motor is running but which will automatically disconnect that battery when the motor is turned off. That way you can use the house battery to the point that it is completely discharged yet the two start batteries will remain fully charged so as to start the motor when you are ready to go. Once the motors are started they will begin to recharge the house battery.

There are several ways to get there from here.

Was outside trying to monitor mail and missed this one --

Motors are 2000 OX66 200 HP
Two Batteries -- Stbd is Deep Cycle/Port is starting
Models are LX200 and SX200
Switches are PERKO 1/2/ALL
I do have the isolator lead -- it's on older round connector with two smallish wires coming from top on power head to the connector

[pstephens46]

Sounds like you need a third battery. Not sure if what you are identifying is the isolator is correct. Should be a single wire from each engine.

[Poorsche]

That'a what I'm thinking but want to figure what I've got first -- it's pretty screwy it seems

Yamaha has an Auxiliary Battery Chargin Circuit but my engine is older than the parts they now sell/stock -- so I'll try and call Yamaha tomorrow and make sure how what I have works

I've got a StartNow device by Charles Industries but get mxed signals about using it--

[boscoe99]

Sounds like you need a third battery. Not sure if what you are identifying is the isolator is correct. Should be a single wire from each engine.

Agreed on the desirability of a third battery.

The OX66 isolator lead on the motor has two wires going to one connector. From that connector a single wire lead runs to the battery. I think that is what the OP is describing.

I seem to recall a recent post about this very same subject.

A Yamaha is not a Yamaha is not a Yamaha.

[Poorsche]

LOL c-- that post was me trying to define the circuit on my older OX66's -- also talked about a Charles Industries StartNow device to help connect 3rd battery but never really got all the info I had hoped to get

[pstephens46]

Pretty sure you could make the isolator connection yourself without buying Yamaha harness. I used heatshrink connector and heatshrink sleeve. 10 gauge wire.

[boscoe99]

LOL c-- that post was me trying to define the circuit on my older OX66's -- also talked about a Charles Industries StartNow device to help connect 3rd battery but never really got all the info I had hoped to get

I remember that post now that you mention it. That was the one.

I would add the third battery. Using either the Yamaha isolator lead (maybe not since I think it is no longer available) or a combiner/VSR/VSR.

When it comes to these I am partial to the Yandina combiner. Cost effective, easy to install, does the job.