Starboard engine wont turn over

[Mountain1]

Hey guys I have a problem I am looking for some help on. I have twin 2001 Yamaha 150 2 strokes with Yamaha 704 dual binnacle controls and my port engine will start and run great but all of a sudden my starboard engine wont even crank over. I've looked online and on this forum and found that the micro switch inside the controls could be the culprit and that i could temporarily jump the wires together until I got a new switch. I have tried this and it still will not turnover. I cant seem to find any wire diagrams or pictures of the plug online so I used a meter to test continuity on the only plug I found with brown wires and I get a continuity beep one the port engine when in neutral and no beep when in gear (the way it should work) on the starboard engine I get the beep when in neutral showing continuity on the switch but it still shows continuity when i put it in gear. How do I bypass this switch or am I looking in the wrong place for this problem? Any and all help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Any "clicking" (starter relay) from the engine (as you try to CRANK)?

Does the trim and tilt work?

Check all the grounds on the engine (don't just look, inspect/clean).

Also check connections at the battery (I'm assuming two batteries) as well as the cables. Any
corrosion, dig deeper...

If nothing is found, take a test light to the starter, and have someone turn the key(you might have muffs with water on just in case). There should be 12 volts going to the starter (which you likely won't have, BUT should).

If you have a battery switch, (IE Perko), check that as well. You very likely have a bad ground or connection somewhere..

[Mountain1]

There is no clicking at the engine and the trim and tilt work great. I have cleaned all battery connections and made sure connections are tight I have 3 batteries and I have check both perko switches and all is good on that end along with checking the starter and I do not have voltage at he starter. This is why I'm thinking the neutral switch in the binnacle is the problem I'm trying to figure out how to temporarily bypass it to make sure that is what it is before I go and order a new one. Is there anything else I'm missing

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The engine obviously has power to it, (T&T work).

As for the micro switch, I believe there's two wires to it.

Disconnect them from the switch and see what happens(keeping them apart), OR (again disconnect from the switch) and TIE THEM TOGETHER. Then see if there's any change in function. If it now works normally, you found your issue.


***One thing you might do, (did it this am on a 110 grinder switch gooed up and not working and NOW is fine), is if you have some electric contact cleaner spray , spray the switch and work the switch in and out.

If not, use some Liquid Wrench liberally about the switch. If you have an air compressor, blow at it a bunch (to get rid of the excess), again working it in and out.

If the contacts are crappy, you may very well be able to blow them out.

**I did the above EXACTLY, to the engine mounted T&T switch on my 10 year old F150, works fine now...

[99yam40]

Not sure how you are testing continuity, but if not working like the port side that is a problem.

But if not getting 12+ through to start relay from key switch something is wrong with key switch, neutral switch, or the wiring.
Have you checked for the 12V + at wires when turning key switch?