12Volt Electrical Question

[Poorsche]

I've got a 2000 Century 2600 CCF with twin Yamaha OX66 engines. THe battery on the Port engine will discharge if I forget to turn the Battery Switch OFF (which I did the other day -- again)

When I checked on things the Battery was showing 10.7 Volts -- I have a battery charger hooked up and it showed that the battery was in Low condition after the day or two with the switch left ON

The battery that's losing it's full charge is connected to the Auxiliary Panel and all the electronics. I checked across the 12V Lug (comes directly from the Battery Switch) and the Ground that comes directly from the Battery and my meter is showing 0.385V

What is causing this reading?

I've cleaned all the +12V posts and Ground Posts except on the battery switch itself. Century buried that switch and connected it with such short leads it's major surgery to get ad the back of that switch

Suggestions?

[DennisG01]

I'm not sure what you mean about the .385V and where your meter was connected for that, but a couple thoughts...

-- You have a battery charger. Battery went dead. Why wasn't the charger able to keep the battery charged... Huge draw (unlikely), battery is shot or something is wrong with the charger and possibly the charger is causing the issue

-- With every 12V accessory turned off, do an amp draw test between the negative battery lead and it's post. I'm not sure how many milliamps the engine computer pulls or when it goes to sleep (or even if this computer has this feature), but do the test right away and then do it again after about 15 minutes. The second time, if you're getting anything close to an amp, start pulling fuses one at a time and watch your meter. This will tell you which circuit is the culprit.

[pstephens46]

Gonna have check each thing attached to that battery for current. Old guy at the marina told me his way of doing it. Wait for dark. Start disconnecting and reconnecting until something sparks! Using a meter is a little more modern. If you take the switch off to examine it, go ahead and move it to a better place with longer leads. Amazing where the builders install things. Fuel filters, etc.

[pstephens46]

This probably isn't it but who knows? Late model stereos pull a small amount of current for the memory function, channels etc.

[DennisG01]

This probably isn't it but who knows? Late model stereos pull a small amount of current for the memory function, channels etc.

That's true, although it shouldn't cause this issue in just a couple of days, unless there's a malfunction.

Something I just learned a few weeks ago is that some of the even newer stereos don't do this anymore - I guess they have some type of internal battery or something or other.


Forgot to post this question: Have you had the battery load tested? How old is the battery?

[Poorsche]

Guess that's the next step -- what a pain though -- Century put the battery's in a compartment that requires the batteries to be tilted almost 90 degree's to get them out

And they call the DEsign or Engineering

[99yam40]

I've got a 2000 Century 2600 CCF with twin Yamaha OX66 engines. THe battery on the Port engine will discharge if I forget to turn the Battery Switch OFF (which I did the other day -- again)

When I checked on things the Battery was showing 10.7 Volts -- I have a battery charger hooked up and it showed that the battery was in Low condition after the day or two with the switch left ON

The battery that's losing it's full charge is connected to the Auxiliary Panel and all the electronics. I checked across the 12V Lug (comes directly from the Battery Switch) and the Ground that comes directly from the Battery and my meter is showing 0.385V

What is causing this reading?

I've cleaned all the +12V posts and Ground Posts except on the battery switch itself. Century buried that switch and connected it with such short leads it's major surgery to get ad the back of that switch
Suggestions?

was the battery switch in the off position?
It should show full battery voltage if it was in the on position.

.385V is probably just some leakage in the switch across insulated components.

moisture or salt contamination would be my thoughts.

If the batteries are good,
to find what is drawing current, with the battery switch on and the battery cable disconnected from the positive post, hook up the meter leads between the post and the cable.Should read 12 volts if something is trying to pull current.

Start pulling fuses or disconnecting wires until the meter drops off from showing 12 volts

[pstephens46]

That's true, although it shouldn't cause this issue in just a couple of days, unless there's a malfunction.

Something I just learned a few weeks ago is that some of the even newer stereos don't do this anymore - I guess they have some type of internal battery or something or other.


Forgot to post this question: Have you had the battery load tested? How old is the battery?

I agree this should not draw battery down by itself unless battery is toast. Will need to remove batteries and have them tested at auto parts store. Should be free to do so. My batteries are a pain to remove also in my Century.

[pstephens46]

was the battery switch in the off position?
It should show full battery voltage if it was in the on position.

.385V is probably just some leakage in the switch across insulated components.

moisture or salt contamination would be my thoughts.

If the batteries are good,
to find what is drawing current, with the battery switch on and the battery cable disconnected from the positive post, hook up the meter leads between the post and the cable.Should read 12 volts if something is trying to pull current.

Start pulling fuses or disconnecting wires until the meter drops off from showing 12 volts

Curious to see what my batteries will meter this weekend under the same circumstances.....

[Poorsche]

battery problems are a PITA --

took my battery back to place I purchased and they want to charge overnight before they load test it because anything less is a surface charge -- they said

I've also learned how out of touch I am about the cost of stuff -- batteries have gone up like crazy and so have core charges. Interstate has blems for $59.95 plus $20 core charge -- sears and Walmart are all over $100 -- in fact closer to mid 100's

damn

[pstephens46]

Well, if your battery is as old as that fuel/water separator you may need a new one.

[Poorsche]

Well, if your battery is as old as that fuel/water separator you may need a new one.

LOL - the batteries are easier to get to and they are better monitored but I understand your point

This battery is 6 months old

[pstephens46]

My batteries lasted 4 years......

[DennisG01]

A good, group 24 MARINE starting battery (Deka, Interstate) should run somewhere around $100 to the low $100's. That's pretty typical for a good battery (and in some areas, it could be even higher). Heck, even good car batteries are at least that much.

Since you say you're running a bunch of 12 items on that battery (your "house" battery) then you'd want a deep cycle battery. If you've been using a starting battery as a deep cycle, then that could explain why the battery is dying (if, in fact, that's what is actually happening). Starting batteries are not meant to be drawn down and recharged continuously.

[Poorsche]

A good, group 24 MARINE starting battery (Deka, Interstate) should run somewhere around $100 to the low $100's. That's pretty typical for a good battery (and in some areas, it could be even higher). Heck, even good car batteries are at least that much.

Since you say you're running a bunch of 12 items on that battery (your "house" battery) then you'd want a deep cycle battery. If you've been using a starting battery as a deep cycle, then that could explain why the battery is dying (if, in fact, that's what is actually happening). Starting batteries are not meant to be drawn down and recharged continuously.

I agree - I'm looking at the whole 12V system. Going to add a 3rd battery for electronics and use either the Yamaha Auxiliary Chrging system or a Blue Seas ACR
with a Deep Cycle Battery.

I've gone "overboard" with electronic toys so I've earned the problem. Boat has dual GPS, dual VHF, Radar, Autopilot, Bluetooth, Stereo, AIS - I'm OCD