Water Intrusion?

[cpostis]

This might sound simple but
1 are you sure its fresh water and not salt.
2 how's the filler cap gasket? A lot of people say they get water intrusion there
3 drain the vst tank and on board filters and run motor from a separate tank
4 contact the fuel station company and see if there was other complaints of water.

The more I think about this, the more I think you filled up with gas that already had water in it.

I may be going overboard, but here are ways water gets in gas before delivered to a gas station (This is for avgas, but same should apply for any fuel and delivery method).

How Does Water Get Into Aircraft Fuel Tanks? | AviationPros.com

So, I think I'm going to carry a glass jar whenever I fill my tank and before I start, fill it and check clarity and do the "Coffee/dye test". Can't hurt!

[pstephens46]

Coffee/dye test?

[cpostis]

Coffee/dye test?

As in the link I sent under # 6. Expand the article by clicking "continue reading" to see it.

"Carry coffee, tea, "food coloring" or other water based or soluble material with you and drop some into fuel samples. If it sinks to the bottom as a drop, you have fuel. If it dissolves, you have a problem. Do not accept a clear and bright test alone as proof that the sample is good, clean fuel. It can be bad, clean water"

How Does Water Get Into Aircraft Fuel Tanks? | AviationPros.com

[bajakeith]

To Sir Rodbolt

Yes, I only use plastic bottoms on diesel with "Fire bowl's" installed under the the units.. Have seen way to many issues with a parker (Racor) clear plastic bottoms out in the "Real world" of a outboard.. not a worthy unit with sun,kids.boots, etc,etc... a canister type is the way to Go..

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Hi,few quick notes: #1 Outlet on W/s should be a 90 degree facing down. #2 Never,Ever use Teflon tape in a marine fuel system. or electrical tape on a boat... #3Never use a worm screw clamp on the exposed outboard fuel system..Oltiker clamps only !!!!!! #4 Black fuel line and black W/S heats the incoming fuel. Not Good in hot weather ! #5 clear bottom W/S are made for engine rooms only, Not outside in big time UV'S and get kicked,stand on,abused..No,No,No !! #6 Primer Bulbs work much better with the arrow pointing skyward... #7 most outboard fuel line is a light grey, SO tell me, Why O Why cant some one make a light color primer bulb ??? From a TOP SHELF MASTER MARINE MEC/TEC, that looked at the pic for a sec and saw ALL the same BS I sea daily !! G'Day Sir............quik edit...Is that a Mercury Primer bulb ??? Arrg !! Just Looked at your photo again..the f/lines to the primer bulb are what connectorS

I think you had too many cups of coffee..

As previously posted, the clear cup IS FOR above deck installations. The steel, below deck to deal with heat..

The primer valve is an OEM Yamaha filter and yes, its NOT vertical. I could literally remove it altogether as the engine pulls fuel very easily(I do have a spare steel filter with my tool box just in case).

Space is somewhat limited and I do NOT want the vertical primer valve binding the fuel line when trimming up the engine.

The aft filter has been there over 29 YEARS, no issues with the clamps, straight connectors or teflon tape.

I refinished (cleaned and re-painted) the aluminum "head" assembly years ago and is ORIGINAL.

The area back there stays pretty dry, even underway and in rougher sea's.

It along with the boat/engine get washed after EVERY OUTING as well as salt away.

The boat runs like a top and thus, I appreciate your input BUT, its not getting changed...

Thanks anyway

[bajakeith]

Hi Mr Townsend

Fine.. My job is doing things the best way, So I sea things most don't !! if you look at the clamps on your primer bulb......those are the way to go.. the worm screw clamps are problem-matic...G'Day

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Fine.. My job is doing things the best way, So I sea things most don't !! if you look at the clamps on your primer bulb......those are the way to go.. the worm screw clamps are problem-matic...G'Day

As you noted, plastic likes to "go away", break, with sun exposure. Those clamps at the filter are more exposed than the primer bulb. And yes, I do like and use those plastic clamps whenever I can.

While in the water, should I have to by pass the filter assembly, I can with a 3/8 male to male hose fitting and easily change them out.

Should there be any signs of rust on those clamps, they are replaced with new, NOT chinese clamps...

Again, I thank you for your concern/input, but I have no issues with the set up what so ever and its proven itself (with regular maintenance- which likely most of your customer DON'T do, or inspect). How many vessels do you work on that owner carries the SHOP MANUAL on board and are able to use it? I suspect not many. You will on mine.. And find extra clamps in the tool box, tools, zip ties, etc.

In any case, my vessel runs fine.

The OP, on this thread, could use any and all valuable input.. Cool??

[Nondeductible Expenses]

Update

While y'all argue about fuel water seperators, I'll give an update to my original post. Good news!

Today I drained the gas tank as best I could. I think I got a load of bad gas that caused all this because there was no way water was getting into my fill cap (it was replaced just for that issue from sea hunt), the sending unit gasket was good when I pulled it off to pump the tank.

Today I drained all fuel out the boat, fuel lines and engine. I replaced my Sierra metal fw seperator with a new Racor one with the bowl. For the record it is below deck above my bilge. I was under the impression that this meets uscg standards since I have an outboard.

I also replaced the filter on in the bowl on the engine and put a new F Filter. The old one was gummed up.

Finally, I tore down the VST, cleaned it, and then replaced the screen on the VST. The VST screen was surprisingly gunked up. I couldn't tell at first but when I had it up to the light next to the new one you could see an almost film blocking all the holes.

I put it all back together, put 15 gallons of fresh non-ethanol gas in and launched. I immediately noticed once I primed the system it fired up instantly. I idled out of harbor for the moment of truth...best hole shot it's had in a while! Ran all the way up to 5,600 rpms and I ran it for a couple of hours. Previously I couldn't get over 4K withou surging.


Brought her home, drained the racor and don't see any water or crud.

That VST sure was a pain to get to but I'm glad I know how to do it since it may be an annual thing. I'm going to keep up on my racor and other filters religiously to prevent the VST from getting gunked up. I may even go so far as to drain the VST each weekend.

[cpostis]

Good for you, happy boating!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Glad to hear it.

I would think, watching/draining the transom filter should keep you ahead of the water...

Rodbolt did mention, some time ago, about spraying carb cleaner UP, INTO the drain port of the VST to help keep it (the VST filter) clean.

I have NOT done that. Question, where the VST filter sits in relation to the drain, would spraying up there actually hit the VST filter?

And if you did NOT replace the VST filter, (or even so), how does the plastic hold up against carburetor cleaner?

Just a side note. when I found small particles of crap when draining the VST, I kept flushing it after every outing until eventually all was gone. I now do it after maybe every 4-5 trips (just to make sure there's no debris in there)

[TownsendsFJR1300]

#1 Outlet on W/s should be a 90 degree facing down. #2 Never,Ever use Teflon tape in a marine fuel system.

#3Never use a worm screw clamp on the exposed outboard fuel system..Oltiker clamps only !!!!!!

#4 Black fuel line and black W/S heats the incoming fuel. Not Good in hot weather !

#6 Primer Bulbs work much better with the arrow pointing skyward...

#7 most outboard fuel line is a light grey,

Ok, I'm biting, why should the outlet be 90 degree's down ? (I'd think a sharp 90 would hamper flow-not that its super critical here).

Also, what are you using to seal the threads between the fitting and housing?

[pstephens46]

Ok, I'm biting, why should the outlet be 90 degree's down ? (I'd think a sharp 90 would hamper flow-not that its super critical here).

Also, what are you using to seal the threads between the fitting and housing?

I am still waiting on Baja's reasoning as to why we are not to use deep cycle batteries for starting. This is from a post back in fall 2015, I believe....

[cpostis]

Ok, I'm biting, why should the outlet be 90 degree's down ? (I'd think a sharp 90 would hamper flow-not that its super critical here).

Also, what are you using to seal the threads between the fitting and housing?

Good rainy day Townsends!

I use Rectorseal No. 7. See attached data sheet.

Now, I am a retire Mechanical contractor. They do make yellow Teflon tape for gasoline purposes. However, it is not recommended for NPT threads. The tapered threads will cut through the tape and possibly cause the seal to fail. They are recommended for straight threads.

Here's a document attached that may interest you. Especially look at Subpart J—Fuel Systems. A lot of interpretation is required, common sense should prevail.

For gas lines, I don't like "worm gear hose clamps", especially on small diameter lines. They do cause abrasion where the screw housing contacts the hose. I use the same type crimp clamp Yamaha uses on their high pressure fuel lines. Although highly reliable, I do keep spare clamps and a crimper designed for them on my boat.

If the rain ever stops, I'll get to my boat house and get pics of the clamps, crimper, and connections.

Happy Monday!!!

[cpostis]

Pics of hose clamps, etc.

For you Townsends:

Still raining, but I had these in my garage.

Worm Screw Clamp Damage to Fuel Hose (Abrasion)




Crimp Clamp No Fuel Hose Damage


Crimp Clamp, Crimper, Hose


I got the clamps and crimper from Home Depot. You'll have to ensure the size you choose fits just over what ever hose you are connecting.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Scott, please...

Thanks for the info. Yep, been raining here all day here too, not hard but pretty much stuck in the house.

The clamps your referring to, are those the Yamaha plastic ones with the "rachet" adjustable inside ones? Or the SS ones you need the weird pliers to clamp on?

And what about the 90 degree coming out? I guess it'd look a little neater, don't think it'd help at all with efficiency.

I don't have much room there to re-locate the primer up and down, especially when the engine is trimmed up all the way. And the bulb/fuel system will stay full, even over time, not requiring a "pump". And I do have it just short enough to keep out of any sloshing water back there..


Ok, you added pic's as I was typing.

Besides not having that tool (however I'm a toolaholic and wouldn't mind buying one-better yet, making one). If I had to bypass that entire separator(while on the water), those clamps would make it damn near impossible to slip a male to male 3/8" adapter between the hull fuel line and engine fuel line..

I have replaced those screw clamps over time and wether its good hose I have, or I just didn't ape it down super tight, it doesn't have the indentations/damage as pictured above. Again, I have NO air leaks what so ever...