Rind Free SHOCK amount??

[TownsendsFJR1300]

9-28-16, updated information. (deleted original post)

For Yamaha's RingFree SHOCK AMOUNT, the correct mix is 2 oz / 1 gallon.

This is per the Yamaha spec sheet found on-line.

[cpostis]

Townsends, is your scooter a two or four stroke. Is it air cooled or water cooled?

I ask the above because I'm not so sure ring free will work properly and/or safely in an air cooled high revving/high temp running two or four stroke. If a four stroke, I think you should immediately change motor oil and oil/fuel filters after a decarb, shouldn't you?

I've always heard 2oz per gallon to decarb. I think I read this on a bottle before? Maybe Yamaha removed it from their labeling. Damn risk management people!

Now another question comes up. It's now labeled "Yamaha Ring Free Plus". was it ever just labeled "Yamaha Ring Free", without the "Plus"? Damn marketing people!
What would the difference be, if any?

I respect your opinion, but I think I would not use the Ring Free in my scooter!

Whatcha think?

[fairdeal]

Now another question comes up. It's now labeled "Yamaha Ring Free Plus". was it ever just labeled "Yamaha Ring Free", without the "Plus"? Damn marketing people!
What would the difference be, if any?

RayBersch here has reported:

"Yamaha states that Ring Free Plus contains corrosion inhibitors to help counteract the corrosive effects of ethanol laden gas.... The "Plus" was added to Ring Free in 2010 when they added anticorrosion additives to the original Ring Free formula."

[99yam40]

I am still questioning what Rind Free is

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Its a water cooled, four stroke, 4 valves per cylinder, dual overhead cams. Very similar to an F150, F115 but the engine (crank) is horizontal. 12.2 to 1 compression-regular fuel required.

I've used it for years in ALL my gas engines, car included. It is designed for both 2 and 4 cycle engines, no caveat on air or water cooled. Its been run in my air cooled 2 strokes and 4 stroke yard machines, (weed-eaters, chain saw, generator, mower, pressure washer, etc) with excellent results.

As you posted, there is no directions for shock treatment BUT to ask your dealer (which was useless). Even Mama Yamaha took awhile to get the 1 0z / 1 gallon answer. Posted back in 2011, I found a post here, the moderator posted 2 oz / 1 gallon

I've also ran it heavier in some instances semi-clogged carbs that DID clean it further. IME, at least 10 years of use, EXCELLENT product that actually works.. (Had I known about RF before re-powering, I'd probably still have my Johnny rude V6 still on the boat.).

So far, IME with the bike, 2oz / 1 gallon is working great. With that said, you could pee in the tank and it'd run good (very forgiving machine/engine)

I just want to know know the max amount that can be used safely. Its at least 1:1 per yamaha..


The engine itself:

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I am still questioning what Rind Free is

That's the AKA for Ring Free, with a fat left pointy, typing finger (and to keep you on your toes 99Yam)

[99yam40]

you knew I could not let it go

I know Y'all just bait me

[TownsendsFJR1300]

you knew I could not let it go

I know Y'all just bait me

And of course its in a part I can't change...

But yea, that's it, it was a "bait"!

[zenoahphobic]

Rind free to me means without skin. If I pushed that bike of his the way he does, I'd probably loose all my skin

That vibration that seems to lessen after your treatment, do you conclude was caused by what?
I was thinking when valve clearances increase there can be more resonant "singing" at higher revs. Increased (temporary) valve stem clearance could be a valve or two sticking (ever so slightly) slowing their return by the springs. Could it be that the Ringfree provided some lubrication to the valve stem(s) that was not being provided by the normal fuel or oil from the top?
Another scenario is the carbon deposit on the stem(s) had accumulated and was removed by the Ringfree. That also raises the question is there too much oil running down these stems (leaking valve stem seals).
Ofcourse when these small changes in sound occur it could have been opportune to immediately change the oil (perhaps thicker) to determine whether it was confined to the engine, and perhaps indicated increased wear if the sound had lessened. You know all things resonate (the nature of moving parts) and the more the engine loosens the more the affect of the resonance).
Just had a conversation yesterday with a mechanic about a Can Am I just bought. Everybody notices vibration, he says: "they vibrate (Can Am), just live with it". I am not worried as they are a counter balanced V twin only, so long as the vibration is not destructive. Bit of a digression here.

[zenoahphobic]

Rereading the thread what is the Octane rating of Ringfree?
Just an observation often additives have high octane.
Now 12 something pistons, regular fuel, could your "singing" be detonation? and Ringfree simply increased the octane sufficiently to reduce detonation?
Ofcourse you would then question what your ignition timing is doing at this 4500 rpm and beyond.

[cpostis]

I am still questioning what Rind Free is

Rind Free is a peeled orange!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The engine is designed to run on Regular (in the owners manual). It is a slightly de-tuned R6 racing engine (from the factory).

Re the oil, its full synthetic Motul 10W40 which is the correct weight as called for, full synthetic being better than regular.

Re detonation. No there is no detonation, never has been. Most (if not all) Yamaha in-line 4 cylinder engines have a "buzziness" to them. If you rode mine (prior to the heavy dose) after riding another, you wouldn't notice the difference. This engine has been extremely smooth (as long as the TB sync is super close (I have them within 2 mm's across the board, spec's allow for 10mm's)and that really only affects under 5k RPM's or so.

Valves are not noisy, mileage is at 22,000, valve checks are scheduled at 26,600 miles.. Exhaust temps at the header is within 15 degree' F at idle and hot (per lazer). Timing is NOT adjustable and con*****ed by the ECU only.

**I strongly suspect, even thou the bike is run daily (and normally NOT run hard, maybe 6k RPM's tops when shifting), that I got some crap in one of the fuel injectors and it's finally clearing out

The ONLY fuel filter is attached to the HP fuel pump in the tank. I doubt its filtering properties are anywhere near 10 microns, much less 2 microns for the injectors...

Below is a pic of A pump with a filter clogged up filter. The filters are not serviceable. Buy a new pump for over $400. My pump has been out of the tank several times for tank replacement but the filter has always been clean..

I would just like to put the strongest amount of RF in as possible (which I likely already did) to remove any /all crap.

To give you an idea of the filter/pump used:
(Again, this is NOT my pump, just an illustration of the set up and only filter)

[cpostis]

Here's a vid on decarb, I posted this 'cause I want to be sure after you decarb your bike, you change oil/filter(s). Looks like liquefied carbon may contaminate your oil after a decarb job w/Rind Free.,

Such a clean lookin' bike, just like your boat and garage! Your lawn's not lookin too green though!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Here's a vid on decarb, I posted this 'cause I want to be sure after you decarb your bike, you change oil/filter(s). Looks like liquefied carbon may contaminate your oil after a decarb job w/Ring Free.,

There's no link here^^^.

And yes, I read up about changing the oil afterwards. I really don't expect much if any carbon to dirty up the oil..

[99yam40]

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