Yamaha 115 hp starter only spins

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Cept that the GM starter solenoid is what pushes the starter gear out. There's an arm in there that literally pushes the starter gear out when the solenoid itself has 12 volts to it...

The Yamaha starter in this (the ops) engine, doesn't use the solenoid for the purpose. Just the relay to power up the starter and have the starter gear fling out to engage...

Different animals, short of the starter itself..

[boscoe99]

A Yamaha is not a Yamaha is not a Yamaha.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

A Yamaha is not a GM either

[99yam40]

I dont know about that.
I think my Yamaha is a GM (Great Motor)

[boscoe99]

115 looks to be a type of Dyer drive mechanism.

[boscoe99]

Now look at an F115 starter motor.

Looks to be the more conventional type of starter motor.

[99yam40]

Now look at an F115 starter motor.

Looks to be the more conventional type of starter motor.

conventional in that it uses a solenoid to push the gear into the flywheel like the auto motors of the past we are familiar with?
I guess a lot of the 4 strokes use this type

[scottcmb1965]

In response to CPOSTIS I got another battery and hooked the negative jumper cable to the starter body and touched the positive cable to the positive lead on the starter and the bendix did engage the flywheel so I feel sure the new starter Is ok.

Just a suggestion and IF you have one fitted, check your battery isolation switch....... have come across a few that will only conduct a small amount of current due to corrosion causing a high resistance contact. Voltage read fine at static but when trying a start, the voltage dropped and got low current flow from switch to the starter motor. A quick test is to bypass the switch by disconnecting the leads off the switch and then clean the lead lugs, inspect the condition of the crimping or soldering of those lugs on the cable and if all ok bolt them together to do the bypass. Have replaced a few switchs on boats that had the same symptoms as you are having.

Hope this helps you

Cheers

Scotty

[boscoe99]

conventional in that it uses a solenoid to push the gear into the flywheel like the auto motors of the past we are familiar with?
I guess a lot of the 4 strokes use this type

Conventional is one thing to one and a different thing to another. And it can change with time. I should have been more careful with that word.

Many many moons ago an airplane with a tail wheel was considered to have "conventional" landing gear. The tricycle type of landing gear was an anomaly. Fast forward to today and the tricycle type of landing gear is the conventional gear and the tail wheel airplane is the anomaly.

[pstephens46]

Just a suggestion and IF you have one fitted, check your battery isolation switch....... have come across a few that will only conduct a small amount of current due to corrosion causing a high resistance contact. Voltage read fine at static but when trying a start, the voltage dropped and got low current flow from switch to the starter motor. A quick test is to bypass the switch by disconnecting the leads off the switch and then clean the lead lugs, inspect the condition of the crimping or soldering of those lugs on the cable and if all ok bolt them together to do the bypass. Have replaced a few switchs on boats that had the same symptoms as you are having.

Hope this helps you

Cheers

Scotty

Start with voltage drop between battery and starter. You may end up at the switch maybe not. Work backwards at each terminal or connection. Saves time and money. Basics first don't jump to conclusions.....

[scottcmb1965]

Start with voltage drop between battery and starter. You may end up at the switch maybe not. Work backwards at each terminal or connection. Saves time and money. Basics first don't jump to conclusions.....

Ummmm...... i didnt jump to ANY conclusion as you have assumed, if you read the ops posts he states that he has cleaned the terminals and had the battery checked and replaced the starter motor...... not much more to check after that other than a isolation switch if installed which has had no mention....... hence the reason i thought of suggesting it due to experiancing badly corroded switches in the past ( especially BEP switches)...... and no it doesnt cost anything to bypass the switch to rule it out of the equasion and also at the same time its easy to inspect the switch itself when its been disconnected. So no money will be wasted to do the check and test.
Cheers Scotty

[rodbolt17]

done correctly there will be no time nor money wasted by simply busten out the old multi meter and doing a drop[ test .

much faster than poken and hopen.
less fun than spin da bottle.

[Taylodp1]

There is no battery isolation switch and the all the terminals have been cleaned many times. I like the idea of bypassing the starter relay by unbolting the input and output leads on the starter relay and then bolting them together. I will try that and i also plan to borrow a friends battery and trying it in place of my battery. I think I mentoned earlier that my battery is 5+ years old and although I had it tested at Autozone and they said it was fine, the age makes it feel suspect.

[scottcmb1965]

done correctly there will be no time nor money wasted by simply busten out the old multi meter and doing a drop[ test .

much faster than poken and hopen.
less fun than spin da bottle.

In this particular case it wont be " faster and simple" due to the fact that the op states he doesnt have a multimeter and had to wait on a friend to bring one... who knows how long that would be as it had not been mentioned...... spinning the bottle pocken and hopen could give a quicker result.

[pstephens46]

Multimeter is probably the one thing worth spending $30 at this point. Good learning experience as well.