I have 1991 Yamaha 200 TXRP motors and one has developed an oiling issue. The reserve tank is not automatically filling the main tank on the motor. When the key is on the override switch will fill the tank but not during normal operation when the motor is running. I'm guessing this is a problem with the sensor in the top of the tank ?? Just wanted to get some input before I buy a $200 part.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
1991 Yamaha Main Oil Tank Doesn't Fill
Collapse
X
-
Originally posted by Doc Z.... View PostI have 1991 Yamaha 200 TXRP motors and one has developed an oiling issue. The reserve tank is not automatically filling the main tank on the motor. When the key is on the override switch will fill the tank but not during normal operation when the motor is running. I'm guessing this is a problem with the sensor in the top of the tank ?? Just wanted to get some input before I buy a $200 part.
Why do you think it is a sensor?
Do you have a Yamaha tachometer installed? If so, what are the lights doing?
-
Originally posted by ausnoelm View Post1010 times now......
The number one most misunderstood Yamaha topic amongst all Yamaha mekaniks.
The number one topic that causes most Yamaha mekaniks to fail their master mekanik exam.
I understand boat users not understanding the system.
Comment
-
Yes, I have the stock Yamaha tach. When the oil in the starboard motor tank reaches the bottom line all three indicators light up, the alarm goes off so I shut the motor down. When I manually flip the override tank to fill the tank it is fine. It seems like the signal from the sensor at the tank on the motor is not sending out the signal to the pump on the reserve tank that it is empty and time to turn on and refill it. I did buy a new oil pump but the one on there works with the override switch so its just not getting the signal to turn on.
Comment
-
What about just the green light going out and the yellow light illuminating? Have you seen that?
If the remote tank is low on oil, or if the oil control module thinks the remote tank is low on oil, then the automatic transfer system will not function. If the remote tank is low then the green light is out and the yellow light is on.
A switch in the remote tank closes when there is oil in the remote tank and provides a ground to the oil control module to tell the module that all is well. If the switch has failed open, if the ground to the switch is lost, or if there is a wiring problem that prevents the ground from reaching the oil control module then the auto-transfer is stopped.
Do you have a multimeter?
Comment
-
Originally posted by boscoe99 View PostWhat about just the green light going out and the yellow light illuminating? Have you seen that?
If the remote tank is low on oil, or if the oil control module thinks the remote tank is low on oil, then the automatic transfer system will not function. If the remote tank is low then the green light is out and the yellow light is on.
A switch in the remote tank closes when there is oil in the remote tank and provides a ground to the oil control module to tell the module that all is well. If the switch has failed open, if the ground to the switch is lost, or if there is a wiring problem that prevents the ground from reaching the oil control module then the auto-transfer is stopped.
Do you have a multimeter?
Yes I have a multimeter. I was also thinking of just taking the sensor from my other motor and swapping it in to see if it now fills...........under what conditions will the sensor tell the remote tank pump to turn on and fill the main tank ?? I know the key has to be on but does the motor have to be running ??
Comment
-
All three lights flashing at the same time indicate that the remote tank is full and the main tank is low.
Does the trim indicating system work correctly? On your model if the trim system is kaput, causing the motor to think it is trimmed up, even if it may not be, the auto oil transfer function will cease. The motor will run on the oil in the main tank only. When the main tank gets low, and the remote tank remains full, then all three lights will flash.
When you get the alarm and the lights I presume that you checked the main oil tank and found it to be empty. Correct?
Comment
-
Originally posted by boscoe99 View PostAll three lights flashing at the same time indicate that the remote tank is full and the main tank is low.
Does the trim indicating system work correctly? On your model if the trim system is kaput, causing the motor to think it is trimmed up, even if it may not be, the auto oil transfer function will cease. The motor will run on the oil in the main tank only. When the main tank gets low, and the remote tank remains full, then all three lights will flash.
When you get the alarm and the lights I presume that you checked the main oil tank and found it to be empty. Correct?
When it first occurred it was quite wavy (7 footers) and the alarm would go on and off with the waves for a 20 seconds or so then constant.
Comment
-
Originally posted by ausnoelm View PostDon't confuse yourself swapping parts, do you mean when you swap parts from the previously broken motor, to the known good motor it works?Last edited by Doc Z....; 07-06-2016, 04:08 AM.
Comment
-
lets keep this simple.
so far I have seen two names for the remote tank.
from now on it is ENGINE tank and REMOTE tank.
remember all the nomenclature on this engine was translated,however poorly sometimes, from Japanese to English.
simple filter test for the remote tank.
key on,drain the engine tank until the alarm sounds.
you should show 3 bars flashing.
now quickly reinstall the trap and start timing it.
if it can refill the engine tank in less than 180 seconds the filter/hoses are ok.
does the trim gauge work?
do the bars go up and down as the motor is trimmed?
when you foolishly removed the engine tank oil switch did you retrieve and REPLACE the oil seal?
would not be the fist seal ever got pushed down the oil pipe and blew a motor.
on that motor you can test the engine tank commands with a jumper lead and key on engine off.
jump the black to brown,pump should come on,jump red to black pump should com on and the alarm sound,jump black to white and the pump should shut off.
if the oil con*****er in the CDI assy does not see the trim signal or the signal is incorrect NO auto transfer will occur.
Comment
-
Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Postlets keep this simple.
so far I have seen two names for the remote tank.
from now on it is ENGINE tank and REMOTE tank.
remember all the nomenclature on this engine was translated,however poorly sometimes, from Japanese to English.
simple filter test for the remote tank.
key on,drain the engine tank until the alarm sounds.
you should show 3 bars flashing.
now quickly reinstall the trap and start timing it.
if it can refill the engine tank in less than 180 seconds the filter/hoses are ok.
does the trim gauge work?
do the bars go up and down as the motor is trimmed?
when you foolishly removed the engine tank oil switch did you retrieve and REPLACE the oil seal?
would not be the fist seal ever got pushed down the oil pipe and blew a motor.
on that motor you can test the engine tank commands with a jumper lead and key on engine off.
jump the black to brown,pump should come on,jump red to black pump should com on and the alarm sound,jump black to white and the pump should shut off.
if the oil con*****er in the CDI assy does not see the trim signal or the signal is incorrect NO auto transfer will occur.
Yes....Engine tank fills in <180 sec (using the override switch).
No....Trim gauge does not work and does not show a bar although the gauge on the Port motor which the engine tank does fill automatically also does NOT work but DOES shows a bar stuck in one location.
Yes...I foolishly drained the engine tank and retrieved the seal when I removed the engine oil tank switch and replaced it with a NEW seal.
Can the Trim sender be bypassed for testing and how do I do that ???
Finally....at what point do I do the jumping of wires for testing....
Comment
Comment