L200TXRS fuse issue

[boscoe99]

Thank you for the ideas gentlemen! To clarify, as gtreanto stated,
the problem occurs when the engine is running, not when operating the T/T switch, ( either at the engine or the helm position)

Any ideas on what else may be powered from this circuit?

If this circuit is powering the keyswitch, I suppose that a device activated by the keyswitch could be overloading the circuit causing the fuse to blow as well?

Thanks!

Sorry but I don't have a clue.

[gtreanto]

At this point I would look at each engine

and compare. Check the red and see if when the key is on there is voltage at the engine end. If there is then the issue could be anywhere from the engine forward. If the voltage is applied to the red only when the Tilt or some other switch is turned on then you most likely have an issue at the key.

[mustangsqd]

Success

Hi everyone - and thank you for the tips and advice!

After tracing and inspecting the harness from the engine all the way back to
the helm, we found chafed and frayed wires at the controls. We separated them and spliced new wire(s) in where possible,
and the problem seems to be corrected. We ran the boat for over an hour in seas and no issues!

Now - just need to find a new harness for a 1994 200HP.

Thanks again!!

[pstephens46]

Thought fairfax had a 225?

[boscoe99]

Thought fairfax had a 225?

An F200/F225 are one and the same motor. Mostly. But yes, he does have an F225 I believe.

[fairdeal]

But yes, he does have an F225 I believe.

Correct. Although, from the HP curve I've seen, I've never used more than about ~180 of them.

I also have a new little toy from eBay, an inductive DC ammeter. Hadn't played with it yet, but seemed perfect for this trim relay question.

I thought I was going to be able to just slide it over the wiring to the switch.
BUT - just as with AC - it seems you can't put the wires on both "sides" of the circuit within the toroid - they cancel each other. No reading.

how to do a screenshot on a pc

I will have to "dig down" to the relay itself to isolate a single lead. Maybe this afternoon...

In the meantime, I happened to have a spare "starting relay" - 68V-8194A-00-00
So I measured the "holding current" of that - 2.2 amps!
If you leave it connected it warms up quite quickly.

upload image online

I also had handy a "Hella" type automotive relay - 30 amp rating, such as for headlights.
In order to get a decent reading, I took 4 wraps through the toroid - so the indicated value is 4X actual of 0.125 amps

upload a gif

[boscoe99]

Fairplay is da man.

I like your toys. I like toys myself.

Is that display large enough?

When you want to know how to release a pin/socket from a Yamaha connector, so as to slip the hall effect device over a single wire, boscoe is ready when you are.

[fairdeal]

When you want to know how to release a pin/socket from a Yamaha connector, so as to slip the hall effect device over a single wire, boscoe is ready when you are.

well, there isn't enough space to get my hands on those wires without removing the intake silencer;
once I do that, the relay itself is right there.

I've managed that pin /socket release a few times;
in fact I removed two wires/pins from the superfluous half of my oil/trim harness
and used them to connect to my "water in fuel" wires.

I was very pleased to discover that those "caps" Yamaha puts on unused connectors are simply mating connectors - sans pins.

photo uploading

image upload no size limit

[zenoahphobic]

I can't see a great advantage with this device. As noted only useful for a single conductor and then needs that circuit to be broken to thread the loop over. Might as well use conventional meter at the disconnected plug.
Only advantage is that one needs not to clamp to plug pins or sockets or risk arching burns at higher currents connecting probes.

[boscoe99]

Correct. Although, from the HP curve I've seen, I've never used more than about ~180 of them.

I also have a new little toy from eBay, an inductive DC ammeter. Hadn't played with it yet, but seemed perfect for this trim relay question.

I thought I was going to be able to just slide it over the wiring to the switch.
BUT - just as with AC - it seems you can't put the wires on both "sides" of the circuit within the toroid - they cancel each other. No reading.

how to do a screenshot on a pc

I will have to "dig down" to the relay itself to isolate a single lead. Maybe this afternoon...

In the meantime, I happened to have a spare "starting relay" - 68V-8194A-00-00
So I measured the "holding current" of that - 2.2 amps!
If you leave it connected it warms up quite quickly.

upload image online

I also had handy a "Hella" type automotive relay - 30 amp rating, such as for headlights.
In order to get a decent reading, I took 4 wraps through the toroid - so the indicated value is 4X actual of 0.125 amps

upload a gif

Give us a link to your nifty toy por favor. Gracias.

[fairdeal]

I mistakenly said eBay, it is available there but I actually got it from Amazon for a few pennies less since I already pay for Prime

https://www.amazon.com/bayite-Digita...or+Transformer

have had for many years a Fluke "amp clamp" meter but its AC only

thought about buying a modern version w/ DC capability but big bucks for Fluke...
or gamble on some no-name Chinese crap?

This gizmo is so cheap it was an easy decision to purchase

[boscoe99]

I mistakenly said eBay, it is available there but I actually got it from Amazon for a few pennies less since I already pay for Prime

https://www.amazon.com/bayite-Digita...or+Transformer

have had for many years a Fluke "amp clamp" meter but its AC only

thought about buying a modern version w/ DC capability but big bucks for Fluke...
or gamble on some no-name Chinese crap?

This gizmo is so cheap it was an easy decision to purchase

I broke down and got this one. But the price has gone up about 50% since I placed my order. It reads to the milliamp level and has a push to zero function which I really like. My other clamp on DC amp meter has a pain in ass turn to zero know which is hard to get to zero.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[fairdeal]

I broke down and got this one. But the price has gone up about 50% since I placed my order. It reads to the milliamp level and has a push to zero function which I really like.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks nice!

btw -
I made those tilt/trim amp readings this afternoon, started a new thread for it