F9.9 Choke/enrichment

[bantam_dave21]

Hi Guys,

I'm having a few issues with my replacement OB.

I have searched the forums on here and get huge amounts of someones alleged fix as they are a machinist.....lol but not a lot on the system.

It doesn't appear to be auto choking if thats the term. It has a manual over ride choke lever which helps her start just fine, although crawling through the boat to get to it is not always great.

Could anyone give me a basic run down of how the system works? So I can begin to work my way through the system when I'm there tomorrow.

the OB is a 2005 F9.9ELR2D, it appears to have a choke solenoid part no 66M-86111-00-00, I have the Selor and Clymer but don't appear to have a choke system wiring diagram (unless my two books miss the model year either side...)

thanks in advance

[boscoe99]

Your model uses an electro-mechanical device (a solenoid) to activate (close) the choke plate to facilitate a cold engine start. It is item 8 in this illustration:
2005 F9.9ELR2D Yamaha Outboard ELECTRICAL 2 Diagram and Parts

The system is not auto-choked. The operator has to do the activation. The solenoid is activated by either a key switch being pressed inward, or possibly by a separate choke switch being pressed, while the motor is being cranked. I am not sure how your boat is configured.

By the way, is this motor remotely con*****ed from the helm or does it have a tiller handle installed?

When the key switch is pressed in or the toggle switch is pressed do you hear the solenoid being activated? You should hear it click. If so, is the wire pull/wire pull hook connected to the carburetor? If so, do you see the choke plate close when the solenoid is activated? You will have to remove the air intake from the carburetor to be able to see the choke plate. Item 8 in this illustration:
2005 F9.9ELR2D Yamaha Outboard INTAKE Diagram and Parts

Some choke models have both a solenoid and a pull knob to activate the choke. Yours appears to only have the solenoid. Is this correct? What is it that you are doing when you crawl through the boat to get to what ever it is that you are getting to?

[boscoe99]

[bantam_dave21]

Hi Boscoe

thank you for your reply. I'll check tomorrow but I think immediately you may have got to the bottom of this. I wasn't aware of the operator initiated choke....I have just swapped from a a 1989 auto choke vacuum operated system so probably expected this would be similar.

It does have a manual choke leave on the rear of the engine which is what I have used but a solenoid was clearly visible connected to the same mechanism so wanted to get to the bottom of how it all worked.

It is a remote con*****ed unit, I think it is a 703 remote. Very similar plug to that you have shown but will check it out, and listen for the clunk. Hopefully its something as simple as not knowing how it worked and how to work it.


thanks,
Dave

[boscoe99]

Thanks for the feed back. Hope to hear some positive news from you when you get around to pushing the key in for the push-to-choke functionality.

You don't have to answer if you don't want to but are you an inner or an outer? You guys have been in the news lately.

[bantam_dave21]

Hi boscoe....

Quite correct sir thank you....blue wire choke solenoid. Appears to be a switch issue - it is rather worn and doesn't feel to want to be pushed in. I have overcome for now and wired directly to a spare switch on the main console and works a treat. I will get hold of another. I was looking to wire it all to the console anyway as my 703 remote has the ignition switch pointing to the floor which isn't ideal but unfortunately space restrictions dictated where it could go.

I was an out voter.....I don't know which side is being reported the most over with you guys but I think it will be a good move for all concerned longer term, a few little bumps are perhaps to be expected in the short term. Back in the early 90's we were removed from the EMS or European exchange rate mechanism (I think that's all the right way around I was only around 12 YO) and the economy flourished and in turn so did everyone else's so I think it'll be ok the EU was too restrictive......just my own opinion.

Thank you for your assistance with this I'll report back any further developments. The engine has been laid up a while and is idling a little rough. I have a repair kits and new pilot screw etc which will hopefully tidy it up. Dont know if US versions have the air/pilot screw system....

[boscoe99]

Hi boscoe....

Quite correct sir thank you....blue wire choke solenoid. Appears to be a switch issue - it is rather worn and doesn't feel to want to be pushed in. I have overcome for now and wired directly to a spare switch on the main console and works a treat. I will get hold of another. I was looking to wire it all to the console anyway as my 703 remote has the ignition switch pointing to the floor which isn't ideal but unfortunately space restrictions dictated where it could go.

I was an out voter.....I don't know which side is being reported the most over with you guys but I think it will be a good move for all concerned longer term, a few little bumps are perhaps to be expected in the short term. Back in the early 90's we were removed from the EMS or European exchange rate mechanism (I think that's all the right way around I was only around 12 YO) and the economy flourished and in turn so did everyone else's so I think it'll be ok the EU was too restrictive......just my own opinion.

Thank you for your assistance with this I'll report back any further developments. The engine has been laid up a while and is idling a little rough. I have a repair kits and new pilot screw etc which will hopefully tidy it up. Dont know if US versions have the air/pilot screw system....

They do. Except for the actual model name I don't think there is a dimes (I mean a pence) worth of difference.

[bantam_dave21]

No probs....my manual said one of the models in USA had a blank fitted over the air screws. I wasn't sure which one that was all.

[boscoe99]

No probs....my manual said one of the models in USA had a blank fitted over the air screws. I wasn't sure which one that was all.

That blank is referred to over here as an EPA plug. EPA for Environmental Protection Agency. A long arm of the US law. They started putting plugs in the motors in the early 1990's or so over here.

They are trying to keep folks from getting to the idle mixture screw so as to make the motor run. Or run better. If the screw gets turned out a quarter turn we will all be doomed from the extra gasoline that will get spewed into the atmosphere. Better that the motor not run worth a darn so that the user gets tired of it and quits using it altogether. Think of the pollution reduction.

Drill a small hole in the plug. Insert a small screw into the hole. Pull the damn plug out and throw it away I say.

Meanwhile, El Presidente Barack Obama gets in his four engine Boeing 747 and travels here and there, spewing tons of pollutants in the process, to tell us we have to stop burning coal.

[bantam_dave21]

And that is the craziness of it all.....

Just a quick report back....carb re built today and I have a smooth as silk tickover far far better than before. The o ring to the air screw wasn't in great shape nor the one on the main jet plug too. I have a small flat spot when revving but assuming that's why they added the accelerator pump to the 15 to get rid of that flat spot. I'm normally reasonably good at tweaking until I get s good rev range but seem beaten on this one.

Got to sort my charge issue now.....14.9 volts at tickover rising with throttle - I can't see my battery lasting long on those figures. My seloc manual appears to show a spec of circa 20volts but assuming that's the coil voltage before the regulator. Hopefully my old fashioned ref will work/fit.....always a job to do 😀

[boscoe99]

And that is the craziness of it all.....

Just a quick report back....carb re built today and I have a smooth as silk tickover far far better than before. The o ring to the air screw wasn't in great shape nor the one on the main jet plug too. I have a small flat spot when revving but assuming that's why they added the accelerator pump to the 15 to get rid of that flat spot. I'm normally reasonably good at tweaking until I get s good rev range but seem beaten on this one.

Got to sort my charge issue now.....14.9 volts at tickover rising with throttle - I can't see my battery lasting long on those figures. My seloc manual appears to show a spec of circa 20volts but assuming that's the coil voltage before the regulator. Hopefully my old fashioned ref will work/fit.....always a job to do 😀

No regulator is used on a USA F9.9ELR2D model. Only a rectifier. Even at what we might think of as excessive voltage the electrical generator does not produce enough current to harm a flooded lead acid battery. Simply not enough time and not enough current.

[bantam_dave21]

Hi boscoe,

thanks for writing back.

That certainly explains the high voltage I'm seeing...from a car/auto background I'm used to anything much above 14V-14.5V being excessive. The parts list called it a regualtor rectifier so assumed it was simialr to my old Yamaha F9.9. I'll keep an eye on it as it is then and hopefully all is ok, I have a solar con*****er in my battery compartment which monitors the temperature in there so hopefully keep the batteries loaded as best I can and keep an eye on things should be fine.....

It would seem then that I now have a healthy motor ! Yay at last not for long I have little doubt!

thanks again