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I Hate Holes in Transoms!

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  • I Hate Holes in Transoms!

    I'm neatening up my cables/harnesses for my boat at the transom. I do have a dilemma with my transducer cables for both my sonar and Structure Scan cables. Right now they go through the same hole where the engine cables/harness and fuel/oil lines go. I have a new rigging hose and adapter for my steering cable. But, with the different route the transducer cables go, I'd like to run them through an old hole in the transom. However, the old hole is only 5/8" in diameter and I require at least 1" because of the size of the connectors (maybe 1-1/8"). The hole is very close to my transom eyes for towing. Occasionally I do tow multi-person inflatables and vessels in distress.
    I may be too critical on this, but I do not want to enlarge the hole. My first thought was to cut the transducer cables, pass through the existing hole, and then splice the cables. I'd probably have to find a good marine electronics technician to do this.

    Attached are some images. What do you guys think?
    Last edited by cpostis; 07-30-2016, 04:21 PM.
    Chuck,
    1997 Mako 191 w/2001 Yamaha SX150 TXRZ Pushing Her

  • #2
    2 cents

    I would enlarge the hole and make sure you reseal the inner portion (like it is now) ...just enough for the cable to pass through. You will be ok... I would not cut the transducer cable.

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    • #3
      I wouldn't cut either. My lowrance connector was huge too. Lowrance sucks by the way. Esp customer service.

      Comment


      • #4
        Pstephens, surprised to hear you feel that way about Lowrance. I've got my HDS7 Gen II about four years after numerous failures on my Garmin and poor customer service response . Never a problem with Lowrance. I did have to call customer service when tying in my Icom ICM 412 VHF to my Lowrance GPS for DSC location broadcast capability about two years ago. Within 20 minutes from my call, Lowrance sent me the proper color coded wire connection diagram, the proper way to splice and shield the connections, and set up required to make functional including testing. Even after that, I received a call from them inquiring how it worked out.

        What I was really surprised about the HD7 is that the few times in deep water up 2,000', I could get a good sounding of bottom with the standard transom mount plastic transducer. Spec says good to 400'.

        I guess it all depends on who and how knowledgeable the customer service rep is.

        If I could find a good marine electronics tech, I'm sure they can splice my transducer cables without any operational worries. Can anyone recommend a tech near Florida's Treasure Coast?

        Thanks!
        Chuck,
        1997 Mako 191 w/2001 Yamaha SX150 TXRZ Pushing Her

        Comment


        • #5
          Re the hole,

          I'd open it up (your just 3/8" away) but trim away further away from the hook. Seal the hole with a good marine silicone (especially if wood's inside), then run your cables (and fill with sealer).

          I'm sure you've seen the "half moon" covers for cables coming out of the hull, use one for the final install.

          As for loosing strength with the lifting hook, I'd get a piece of at least 3/8" aluminum plate (maybe 4" x 6"). Drill two holes in it so you can place the plate (after removing the two nuts inside) over the hook. Put a good sealer in-between and tighten her up. That'll spread the load on the transom with no worries..



          I did the same to my transom, both sides, when I was using davits and those rear hooks to lift the entire boat (plus a front lift point)..

          Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 06-25-2016, 06:54 PM.
          Scott
          1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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          • #6
            Thanks Townsends! Like your idea, I've got a piece of 1/4" stainless (AND THE CAPABILITY TO CUT AND DRILL THEM) that would work perfect for both hooks. I'll use 3M 3200 to seal them to the transom. I also have the "clamshell" fitting for the cable through.
            Chuck,
            1997 Mako 191 w/2001 Yamaha SX150 TXRZ Pushing Her

            Comment


            • #7
              Townsend- what is the crane for? What is the block that it is hooked up to?
              Dude you have too many toys!

              Comment


              • #8
                Well, my guess is that the "crane" is for gathering the harvest from that mango tree. The "block" is to recover the fruit that spills over into the water!
                Chuck,
                1997 Mako 191 w/2001 Yamaha SX150 TXRZ Pushing Her

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post
                  Townsend- what is the crane for? What is the block that it is hooked up to?
                  Dude you have too many toys!
                  The SS would work great too, especially since you can work it..

                  Re toys,
                  There's actually two, (I'm standing under one taking the pic) and their electric davits to pick up the boat and place on the concrete pad. That was before the 4 post lift.


                  And the rectangular thing underneath is a floating dock (mostly used so I can change the LU oil while the boat is parked). It was much larger, got water logged and was slowly sinking so I used the foam (and additional) and made the frame / deck from scratch. I keep it out of the water to keep that from becoming water logged.

                  Unfortunately, knocking approx 18" off each side (from original), its NOT steady at all when in the water.
                  So now, I have to tie it off fairly tight to the post lift extensions to keep it steady or I'm swimming and /or
                  looking for tools in the canal

                  And no, that's not a mango tree, (carrotwood maybe? which grows like a weed). Me neighbors got a mango tree
                  (which I don't care for) and have free access to.


                  The man cave:
                  (that's a small metal lathe behind the bike and a mig and arc welder under the bench
                  -made of welded up bed-frames many years ago. Not seen, just to the right is a 32"
                  flat screen TV and stereo)
                  Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 06-26-2016, 07:16 AM.
                  Scott
                  1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Ahh. Two makes sense. What type of floor do you have in shop? Mine looks like crap. Need to do something.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Here's my "Dream Garage". It's my dear friend and fishing authority George Poveromo's.

                      The other pic is of my garage floor painted with water based epoxy and flakes from Home Depot about five years ago. It has been so durable for my many projects (Cars, boats, motorcycles), reflects light really good.

                      Zoom in and you can see the finish better.
                      Last edited by cpostis; 07-30-2016, 04:21 PM.
                      Chuck,
                      1997 Mako 191 w/2001 Yamaha SX150 TXRZ Pushing Her

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by cpostis View Post
                        Here's my "Dream Garage". It's my dear friend and fishing authority George Poveromo's.

                        The other pic is of my garage floor painted with water based epoxy and flakes from Home Depot about five years ago. It has been so durable for my many projects (Cars, boats, motorcycles), reflects light really good.

                        Zoom in and you can see the finish better.
                        Me likes that floor. You don't like to fish do you??
                        (I have two poles!-total)...

                        pstephens46, I had some decent settling cracks on the floor and put down the 12" tiles (semi flexible) with adhesive. When new, it looked really nice. Its held up ok but just the weight and leverage with the motorcycles kick stand, it tears up and WILL SHIFT a tile when parked on it. I put a small
                        piece of plywood or something under the kickstand-ALWAYS

                        W/O the bike, pretty much no movement, hides the cracks and should you damage one or two, scrape it up, re-apply adhesive and put another tile down(I have some spares in the attic)...

                        I'd really like to have that epoxied floor but with the bike, and its a working garage (dropping crap, chemicals, etc) I suspect I'd destroy the epoxy...

                        Being really anal, I do vacuum and mop the floor so it is clean should I have to lay down on it under the bike, truck, etc......
                        Scott
                        1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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