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1993 200 trxx How does it charge

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  • #16
    why not simply use the battery isolator built into the Yamaha motor?
    would be a tad easier and cheaper.
    typically on the aft stbd side of the motor.
    your looking for a red wire with a gray cap that is unused.
    that is for charging a separate battery.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by sony224422 View Post
      I see what you're saying now. I was trying to make this too complicated. The blue seas add a battery does the same thing that you're using. I do not need to separate the starter from the charging line, the arc does that. Very simple install. I'll be adding the optional start line and another switch they recommend to kill any power for storage. My tender even hooks up to it easily. Very well thought out product
      The light went on didn't it? That is a good feeling.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
        why not simply use the battery isolator built into the Yamaha motor?
        would be a tad easier and cheaper.
        typically on the aft stbd side of the motor.
        your looking for a red wire with a gray cap that is unused.
        that is for charging a separate battery.
        Isolator lead from Yamaha leaves one absent a switch to disconnect the battery from the motor. It is not circuit protected. Also, it does not provide a means to switch from the start battery to the house battery if the house battery is needed to start the motor. By the time one sources and buys all of the stuff that many will find to be generally needed it might not be cost effective. Certainly it is not simpler.

        The add a battery kit from Yamaha is $168 and change.

        http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/ya...ALB-AT-08.html

        The Blue Seas kit is about $110 bucks.

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        • #19
          a 3 positon ON 1 ON 2 and both switch. 30 bucks.
          10ft of 10 ga wire, 10 bucks.
          an inline fuse hoilder with a 20-30 amp fuse,7 bucks
          3 heat shrink connectors 3 bucks.
          half an hour or so labor.

          house battery is wired and ready to charge.

          battery switch has 3 posts, bat 1 bat 2 and common.
          use bat 1 for the engine
          bat two is the house.
          hook the isolator wire to the bat two post.
          bat two now charges anytime the engine is running but the engine battery is isolated from the house battery.
          if either batteries die select both on the switch and now the batteries are parraled.

          requires NO additional wiring mounting and unlike combiners it rarely fails and is unaffected by damp/wet bilges.

          you paid for the isolator when you bought the motor, why not use it?

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          • #20
            My engine doesn't seem to have that. So, i'll do it how it is. Plus i don't want to be turning the switches. Everything will run off the house batteries and then the starting battery is isolated and everything charges automatically

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            • #21
              I do believe your engine has the isolator, all Yamaha v6 since about 1990 has them.
              your isolator lead is that short red pigtail with a gray cap about 6" from the rectifier.

              if wired correctly no switching is involved to charge both batteries when running yet when beached the house battery is the only one draining.
              this assumes you have all accessories on the house battery.

              only time you would switch to all is if you killed the house battery.

              with the combiner and a long day beached chillin with the fridge on and the tunes blasting with that 100 watt amp you can kill both.

              some combiners have a cut in and a cut out feature.
              costs more.

              but like I say its your motor and your money.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                I do believe your engine has the isolator, all Yamaha v6 since about 1990 has them.
                Most do. All don't.

                Kinda like a knock sensor. Some older motors have them. Some newer motors don't. But some newer motors do.

                I wonder sometimes if Fujimoto at Yamaha talks to Yamamoto at Yamaha. Does the Yamaha left hand know what the Yamaha right hand is doing?

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                • #23
                  I got it all wired up today, and everything seems to be working well. I didn't hook up the "stater cut" feature, i left myself a pigtail incase i decide to do so. Tomorrow i'll take the boat out for a spin and do some tests on it

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                  • #24
                    actually for the US market all V6 Yamaha about 1990 and up had the isolator feature.
                    not my fault not many tech's or riggers know about it.
                    not my fault most folks do not understand battery isolation.
                    but I do have to ASK.
                    what the bloody ell is a stator "CUT" feature??????

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post

                      what the bloody ell is a stator "CUT" feature??????
                      my thoughts also?

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                        actually for the US market all V6 Yamaha about 1990 and up had the isolator feature.
                        not my fault not many tech's or riggers know about it.
                        not my fault most folks do not understand battery isolation.
                        but I do have to ASK.
                        what the bloody ell is a stator "CUT" feature??????
                        I think he meant the starter cut feature whereby when the key is turned to the start position the device will ensure that the two batteries are not being paralleled. Only the start battery will supply power to the motor.

                        Not normally needed anyway.

                        I find the Blue Seas and BEP add a battery type devices to be overly complicated. Plus, one of the two refers to a battery as a "bank" and now folks keep referring to their banks, not batteries.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                          actually for the US market all V6 Yamaha about 1990 and up had the isolator feature.
                          not my fault not many tech's or riggers know about it.
                          not my fault most folks do not understand battery isolation.
                          but I do have to ASK.
                          what the bloody ell is a stator "CUT" feature??????
                          You know what they say about the use of the words "all", "none", "never" and "always". Be very careful when using them.

                          It is not your fault about other tech's and/or riggers not knowing about isolator features but it is your fault for you not knowing. Remember the old adage "a Yamaha is not a Yamaha is not a Yamaha". Apparently you forgot this. Or maybe you were asleep when the MTG changes were being discussed.

                          But there is always stuff that none of us knows. All we can do is to learn. If we choose to.

                          The very first Yamaha F200/F225's, the 2002 A models, did not come with an isolator lead. Why? Only Yamaha knows. This functionality was added with the F200/F225 2003 B models.

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                          • #28
                            so I missed one odd year run .
                            point is the isolator is already on the x model 200.

                            like turn signals.
                            you paid for it why not use it?

                            I cannot tell you how many combiners I see fail due to moisture.

                            some have cut in and cut out limits.
                            some once they cut in stay in.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                              so I missed one odd year run .
                              point is the isolator is already on the x model 200.

                              like turn signals.
                              you paid for it why not use it?


                              I cannot tell you how many combiners I see fail due to moisture.

                              some have cut in and cut out limits.
                              some once they cut in stay in.
                              I already had a left arm to stick out the window. I used what I had.

                              Did not need no stinkin turn signals.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                what is #5 in those schematics ?

                                1 & 2 are the coils, 3 the rectifying diodes, 4 the isolating diodes, 6 the fuses...

                                image url upload

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