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I'm purchasing a boat tomorrow morning just for the engine. It's a 2004 Yamaha f150. Owner claims the engine has only 44hrs on it. It was his friends boat that he was building and passes away. Any how I'm a current Yamaha outboarf owner of 2012 f90 and need a bigger engine. What issues should i look for in this engine. What could be come problematic with this engine. I keep finding people mentioning counterbalancers problems.
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change the balancer,install a new impeller,clean the VST and fuel system.
go play. -
Thank you rodbolt. Anyone have a easy to read "how to" for changing the balancer?Comment
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I believe the instructions come with the part. Very easy. Need the correct sealant. Loctite 518 I think. Somebody will correct me on that. and a torque wrench. An hour at most.Comment
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Thanks fella!Comment
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The sealer, I believe comes with the kit..Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXRComment
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hit a snag
got the boat home and started a water pump installation on it. I removed 5 of the 6 bolts from the sides of the lower. I popped the cap off the bolt that goes top down to the anode. It appears the bolts threads must be stripped as it turns but doesn't back out. I put a large pair of channel locks on the anode and worked it back and forth about a 1/3rd turn each way. I could see the head of the bolt turn. well I snapped the piece of anode off doing this. ............anyone dealt with this issue? Can I pull the prop and hope to drill into the bolt area?....................ps engine barely made 2 revolutions and fired up. Owner said he started it every couple months just hasn't used it since 2014Last edited by Skyhookdutch; 06-11-2016, 10:20 PM.Comment
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2004 F150TXRC Yamaha Outboard LOWER CASING DRIVE 2 Diagram and Parts
That bolt is stainless steel, don't screw with it short of putting a socket on it to keep from spinning.
Take a Dremel (or small grinder) to the anode (which is MUCH softer)and just work at that till its gone.
If you have to work "inside" the "housing" from the bottom (ie drilling the anode with a small drill bit), I'd put a curved piece of sheet metal or similar on the edge of the housing to protect it.
A needle nose vise grip, once close to fully removed (if available) would help as well.
It shouldn't take much to remove(destroy) that anode without damaging the lower unit.
As for it stripping, sounds like lack of maintenance, lack of flushing, but not a big deal... A touch of waterproof grease on the bolt / anode when re-assembling won't hurt...Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXRComment
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I'm having trouble understanding the OP's problem -
I can easily imagine the threads in the anode stripping so that the bolt spins -
but how would it still be "attached" - and "trapping" the attaching bolt?
I have destroyed one of those by too much torque on install; broke off the threaded "boss":
IIRC, channellocks easily fit in below the hold the broken piece, while I backed out the bolt...Comment
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Its apparently hanging up for some reason.
I haven't had this particular issue with the anode, but most anyone wrenching has come across this sooner or later...
Constant pressure pulling the anode while turning the bolt may work, especially if you can get in there (as you posted).Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXRComment
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I got it guys, I guess the last guy to work on it spun the threads off the zinc. I had to pull down as I unscrews the bolt.
Now another question, I have a 2012 f90 on my boat now. Is the controls and harness interchangeable with my 2004 f150 engine. Might save me some time rigging it up if they are.Comment
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Completely interchangeable.Originally posted by Skyhookdutch View Post
Except for a trim/oil harnesss that feeds a Yamaha multi-function tachometer trim and warning system information.Comment
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Thanks for the update too!Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXRComment
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