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F25 won't start - Rectifier?

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  • F25 won't start - Rectifier?

    New member here - have already learned a lot from browsing. Thanks for the site.

    I have a 2004 F25TLRC. Has run perfectly for several years. This spring would not start - no spark at plugs. Suspect rectifier since my assistant first hooked up battery with wrong polarity and tried starting it. Believe rectifier may have been damaged with incorrect polarity. Before I spend $170 on a new R/R, is there a simple way to test it? Any other component I should suspect? I've checked all electrical connections and fuse - seem OK.

    Finally, are aftermarket rectifiers (CDI) better than OEM as claimed?

    Many thanks,
    Jim

  • #2
    Uhhh

    Its easy to test with a ohm meter, But there are a few stlys and ways to test them.. Basic Diodes.. so the current should run only one way and not back thru it..... a good DVM will have a diode dinger/buzz in it...And CDI are GREAT !! like "Tony the Tiger GREAT... I have almost all of their tools and buy and install their parts with no comebacks.. as their Tech line guy say's " don't use a DEEP CLYCLE BATT on a outboard" !!! And CDI is Made In the USA and a better product and cost....
    Last edited by bajakeith; 06-04-2016, 01:25 AM.

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    • #3
      I am not up on all the 4 strokes and their ignition systems so take this for what it is worth. not all use CDI ignition system

      on most of the CDI ignition motors the
      RR is fed by the lighting coil and should be just for maintaining the battery.
      spark voltage is generated by the charge coil and is fed into the CDI and it in turn sends it out to the coils at the correct time to spark the plugs.

      All of these voltages can be measured to make sure they meet specs listed in the service manual

      Are you sure you had the kill switch hooked up properly when testing spark?

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      • #4
        I agree with 99yam40 - the r/r is for charging the battery and providing power for other electric devices. Rectifying is the process of changing an AC power source to a DC output. Regulation is making sure the voltage doesn't change too much as RPMs change. Neither of these processes is related to the ignition system.

        But, if your buddy did reverse polarity to the battery and turned on the switch, it is highly likely the R/R is toast. Measure resistance across the posts. Should be infinite resistance in one direction and low resistance in the other.

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        • #5
          Who is claiming that an aftermarket rectifier is better than an OEM rectifier? What is the basis for those claims?

          The rectifer/regulator in an F25TLRC has nothing whatsover to do with the ignition system. You can take it out, throw it into the deep blue sea, and the motor cares not a wit. The battery won't get recharged but that is a separate and different issue.

          To be clear, when you turn the key the motor cranks but does not start?

          "I've checked all electrical connections and fuse - seem OK."

          Seeming does not cut it. The system needs to be tested to verify that electrical connections such can work as designed.

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          • #6
            CDI makes electrical parts, not discussing cap. dis. ign. systems in general. CDI in this case is a business, a very good source. This is also post #27 for me, maybe like the big boys i'll make #30 someday, but I can only dream.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by donsmarine View Post
              CDI makes electrical parts, not discussing cap. dis. ign. systems in general. CDI in this case is a business, a very good source. This is also post #27 for me, maybe like the big boys i'll make #30 someday, but I can only dream.
              I was!
              discussing cap. dis. ign. system

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