2004 VMax 150 hp secondary oil pump issues

[Captain Steve]

2004 V Max 150 HP Secondary Oil Pump that is mounted in the side of the main oil tank assembly questions.

I had posted last week that my low oil alarm went off while running at 5000 rpm for a extended period of time. I was able to fill the tank under the cowling using the toggle switch on back of the motor, under the cowling. I ran the rest of the day, and never had anymore issues.

I went out yesterday, and again, after fishing all day with no issues, and while running in at 5000 rpm's for an extended period of time, the low oil alarm went off again. This time, I was unable to fill tank under the cowling using the toggle switch.

I got home and pulled the oil tank, and removed the oil pump mounted in the side of the tank. There are two wires coming off the oil pump (-/+), one blue, one brown. I am not sure which is positive, which is negative. I would assume Blue +/ Brown -.

On most pumps, if you reverse the wiring, the pump will turn in the oposite direction.

My question is, if I connect this oil pump in reverse polarity (assuming Blue + / Brown - is correct), should the pump turn in opposite direction?

When connecting Brown to + / Blue -, the pump spins, but is not pumping oil (I would assume this is reverse polarity).

When I connect Blue + / Brown - (assuming correct polarity), the pump seems to be locked up, or she won't turn.

If my assumption of Blue + / Brown - is correct, I would assume that my oil pump on the main oil tank is bad. Can anyone confirm?

PN: 6E5-81900-01-00 / $156.19

Thanks

[boscoe99]

Why would you want to turn a pump in the opposite direction from that which it is designed to turn? For what purpose? To what end?

To answer your question the pump will turn in reverse if the leads are reversed.

The brown lead gets 12 volts positive. The blue lead is grounded to run the pump motor.

Your assumption of Blue + and Brown - is incorrect. It is assbackards.

If you follow the service manual it shows that the brown wire gets positive power and that the blue wire is grounded to run the pump motor.

[boscoe99]

Oh, the electric oil pump is mounted on the side of the remote tank. The tank in the boat. The main tank is on the side of the motor.

You are two for two. Got your tanks backwards and got your wire colours backwards.

[99yam40]

he said the motor will not turn in the correct direction ( locked up) when hooked up brown as positive.
Sounds like something in there binding it up,
But does not make any since to me that it will turn backwards fine

never mind I read it wrong

[Captain Steve]

I don't want to turn pump in reverse. But not knowing for sure the correct polarity, is why I posted the question.

So now knowing polarity and the pump spins fine in that polarity, I would assume my pump is good.

I will start with the inline filter from the remote tank in the boat. Are there anymore filters between the remote oil tank that sits in the boat and the main oil tank under the cowling that I should change?

[Captain Steve]

he said the motor will not turn in the correct direction ( locked up) when hooked up brown as positive.
Sounds like something in there binding it up,
But does not make any since to me that it will turn backwards fine

The motor spins fine when connected brown +.

I just wasn't sure of the correct polarity. If should turn in either polarity, maybe I do have a problem with the pump.

Maybe I need to replace pump and filter.

[rodbolt17]

maybe you can stand 15ft back and throw 100 dollar bills at it.

maybe you can do some forum searchs on this about precision blend and how and why it uses 4 switchs to automatically transfer oil from the remote tank to the engine tank.

does the hull use the Yamaha digital tach?
if so you can observe the indicators and do most the troubleshooting just based on the visual indicates.

with the key on does the pump RUN, I don't care if it pumps, does it RUN when the manual switch is activated?
this system is so stupidly simple yet it is still one of the most failed ares on the master tech test.

the 3 switchs in the engine tank are from top to bottom,SW1, SW2 and SW3.
the switch in the remote tank is SWB.
SW1 closes when the engine tank raises shuts off the transfer.
SW2 as oil is consumed it closes and turns on the transfer which stays on until SW1 closes again.
SW3 is a second transfer on in case SW2 failed.
if SW3 closes you get an audible,a visual and RPM reduction as well as a second pump on command.

now this is based on the ECU "seeing enough oil in the remote tank to bother with an auto transfer.
when SWB is closed the green oil lamp is lit on the tach.
when it opens OR a wire breaks the ECU "sees" this and assumes the remote tank is low AND inhibits any auto transfer.

now if SW3 is closed, Low engine tank level, and the ECU "sees" SWB as closed,sufficient oil in the remote for auto transfer.
the audible is set,RPM reduction is set,the VISUAL will now display all 3 bars flashing and the ECU turns on the transfer for 180 seconds or until SW1 closes.

see how easy this is?
I have isolated the problem to a specific area just by watching 3 indicators.

[boscoe99]

maybe you can stand 15ft back and throw 100 dollar bills at it.

maybe you can do some forum searchs on this about precision blend and how and why it uses 4 switchs to automatically transfer oil from the remote tank to the engine tank.

does the hull use the Yamaha digital tach?
if so you can observe the indicators and do most the troubleshooting just based on the visual indicates.

with the key on does the pump RUN, I don't care if it pumps, does it RUN when the manual switch is activated?
this system is so stupidly simple yet it is still one of the most failed ares on the master tech test.

the 3 switchs in the engine tank sensor assembly are from top to bottom,SW1, SW2 and SW3.
the switch in the remote tank sensor assembly is SWB.
SW1 closes when the engine tank raises shuts off the transfer.
SW2 as oil is consumed it closes and turns on the transfer which stays on until SW1 closes again.
SW3 is a second transfer on in case SW2 failed.
if SW3 closes you get an audible,a visual and RPM reduction as well as a second pump on command.

now this is based on the ECU "seeing enough oil in the remote tank to bother with an auto transfer.
when SWB in the remote oil tank sensor assembly is closed the green oil lamp is lit on the tach.
when it opens OR a wire breaks the ECU "sees" this and assumes the remote tank is low AND inhibits any auto transfer.

now if SW3 is closed, Low engine tank level, and the ECU "sees" SWB as closed,sufficient oil in the remote for auto transfer.
the audible is set,RPM reduction is set,the VISUAL will now display all 3 bars flashing and the ECU turns on the transfer for 180 seconds or until SW1 closes.

see how easy this is?
I have isolated the problem to a specific area just by watching 3 indicators.

Fixed it for you.

[rodbolt17]

no you did not.
I don't care that my motor has a fever it still running HOT.
appearently HOT is difficult to translate between Japanese to US English.
same as a switch to a sensor.
it does not translate well.
\
kinda like when I was assisting my wife translate the Cherry automobile service manual from English to spanis.
the original Chinese to English translation worked very poorly and trying to convert on poorly translated technical document to another would be difficult at best.
makes it even worse when the translaotor is just that, a translator with NO technical expertise in the field they are translating.

take the F225
why don't we call the oil pressure thingy a switch?
why don't we call the intake are and atmospheric air thingys intake air switch and barometric pressure switch?
why not call the themo thingy that gives information to the ECU about block temp a switch?
why do they call the THERMOSWITCH'Sin the heads switch's are they not sensors too?|

if its ON or OFF its simply a switch.
if it gives a varying feed back based on changing pressures or levels it is a sensor.
translation be hanged.

[boscoe99]

What about a variable throttling electronic switch such as a transistor? Is that a switch? Can that be a sensor?

[ausnoelm]

Haven't we been through this before? looks like whether a switch is a sensor or not might be a common thread, just like the oil system.

[boscoe99]

Haven't we been through this before? looks like whether a switch is a sensor or not might be a common thread, just like the oil system.

Yes. We have been through this and other topics time and time again.

There is no present or future.

There is only the past.

Repeating itself over and over again.

Now.