Battery draining - ARRRRRRRGGGGHHHH

[pstephens46]

Took boat out for first run on Sat. Cranked several times, batteries seemed fine. F150TXR BTW. Left at dock with new battery switch set to OFF. Came back next day and batteries dead. Got a jumper and it cranked. I keep thinking it must be something to do with bilge pump since it is direct wired as is the separate float switch. Bilge pump is a year old, switch is older. Bilge pump would run slowly with batteries set to off, using switch. Flip to position 1, bilge runs at full speed. Checked voltage for switch leads, 24 volts? Have two hot wires attached to battery 1 lead at switch. Would one be for pump and the other for switch? Why would switch leads meter at 24 volts? I always get a little water in bilge when running around. Maybe a inch or so...Anybody shed some light on this? Thanks!

[fairdeal]

of course you can't get 24 volts without connecting the batteries "in series" -

but I'm unable to imagine how that might have been done.

If someone decided to take "manual switch" power to the pump from one battery -

but connect the "float switch" to the other battery - could that do it ???


You say the "bilge pump is direct wired as is the separate float switch."

That "as is" sounds odd.

There only needs to be ONE "hot" wire for the bilge pump wiring,

attached either to one of the batteries, or to one "unswitched" terminal of the battery switch.

What wires are connected to the batteries and the battery switch?

[pstephens46]

The batteries themselves have only main cables attached to each. The battery switch has the two red battery leads attached to numbered contacts, one and two. Number one contact also has two smaller wires, one I can identify as switch. The second smaller wire on #1 contact I assume is bilge pump. # two contact on switch has a smaller red wire, not able to identify it. Guess I should clip all the zip ties and remove cable protectors to try to separate and trace? Be nice if they used wire markers....

[fairdeal]

Number one contact also has two smaller wires, one I can identify as switch. The second smaller wire on #1 contact I assume is bilge pump. # two contact on switch has a smaller red wire, not able to identify it.

"hmmm".

There are a few different ways to wire a bilge pump with auto/manual control -

put "bilge pump wiring" in images.google.com and you will see them

but as I said earlier, it should be done with only one "hot" wire

(which, btw, should be fused)

so what are these TWO other "always hot" leads for...

[thilltony]

It sounds like you are on the right track. It's probably something about how the bilge pumps and auto switches are wired.

But to rule battery failure out, disconnect the batteries completely, and see if they still discharge, or if only one does. If the plates on one battery are touching, sometimes it can throw everything off.

I hope you find it.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My pump is wired with a hot wire (and a ground) but with two options.

(My ONE battery is hardwired with NO switches to turn off/on-the boat is on a lift).

With the float activated(water in the hull), the pump kicks on (automatic).

I can also switch on the pump with a toggle switch on the dash manually.

The pump / which should be cleaned occasionally to keep the switch from sticking which will happen. I'll maybe, once a year, give a shot of liquid wrench to the float to make sure it drops (and rises) as it should.

If there's current, even slight, going thru with the pump switch off, the pump switch sounds like its toast...


If not already, I'd have both the automatic pump and manual switch wired direct to ONE BATTERY.


BTW, if you can trickle charge that battery slowly, its better for the battery..

[pstephens46]

Something wasn't right with float switch. Pump would run at lower rpm using float to turn on. Using switch on console, would run at higher rpm. Maybe some water intrusion? Replaced it and pump runs same speed either way. Will see how she does this weekend. Will make sure I have jumper cables on board. Thanks for everyone's input!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Something wasn't right with float switch. Pump would run at lower rpm using float to turn on. Using switch on console, would run at higher rpm. Maybe some water intrusion? Replaced it and pump runs same speed either way. Will see how she does this weekend. Will make sure I have jumper cables on board. Thanks for everyone's input!

Just for S&G's, I'd pull that old switch apart (cut if necessary, its plastic) and see what happened inside. You can put that switch under water, and look for any bubbles/leakage of air as well, shouldn't be any..

Agreed thou, some water probably got in there, shorted and made a circuit to the pump.

Curiosity and confirmation too...