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We were returning home from a pleasant day of fishing when my starboard engine instantly shut down (from 3900 rpm). There was absolutely no warning; no alarms, no unusual noises, no fluctuation in rpm. After limping home on one engine, I pulled the cowling and the plastic shroud and found that one of the driven sprockets had broken (the "hub" of the sprocket had sheared off the main body). Just wondering if anyone here has ever experienced this failure and if so, what should I expect in regards to repair. Thanks in advance for any and all input.
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something like this?
I only found the above photo after my thread:
http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...r-th25993.html
VERY luckily these are non-interference engines.
The gear is a little pricey - of course. Replacing it is little more difficult than an ordinary belt change (not that I found that "easy") -
That's it.....in fact it looks like someone came to my house and took a picture of my engine. I did try to research it before posting and, to my disbelief, discovered that since my engine is of the non-interference variety, there should be no internal damage. Between corrosion issues and flat tires at the boat ramp, maybe my luck is beginning to change. I appreciate your reply...Comment
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buy the service manual.
set the flywheel to the correct marks,set the port and stbd cams correctly.
install a new belt being VERY careful with the belt tensioner and go back to playing.Comment
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I appreciate the info....I actually have one of the local guys looking into it. I might leave this one to a professional. Thanks for the reply.Comment
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as Rodbolt said, "VERY careful with the belt tensioner "
its an obvious straightforward belt replacement -
but if the "local guy" is not a trained Yamaha mech,
or otherwise experienced with that engine,
make sure he's aware of this:
Timing Belt Tensioner InformationComment
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Thank you for the heads-up. I will forward this information to him.Comment
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so can belt be replaced on 05 F250 by using torque wrench at 11LBS to point that the 5mm rod can be inserted Or do this first,THEN tensioner has to be removed from engine?thanksOriginally posted by rodbolt17 View PostComment
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trust me.
if you have to ask that question you may not be qualified to perform the procedure.
you first remove the plugs,then all the wiring and the wire harness holder.
then you follow the SM procedure for indexing the cams and the flywheel.
then move the tensioner back and lock it.
then remove the rotor.
then remove the aft center idler.
then remove the stator/pulser assy.now the belt comes off.
to install
go back to the sm,make sure no further indexing is nessasary.
the port bank intake cam likes to move.
if it does ,remove the cam cover and hold the cam with a 15/16ths open end.
now there re 5 marks on the belt that have to line up with the marks on the drive and driven sprockets.
now making sure the belt is on the proper marks and the proper height on the sprockets install the center idler to lock the belt in place.
now inspect all marks and belt heights.
if they are all good to go pull the 5mm rod.
roll the motor over two turns manually.
make sure nothing bound up and all the sprocket marks are correct.
if so button it up and go play,
takes me about 4 hrs.
screw up and not only the valves wont clear the pistons they wont clear each other.
gotta remember at the school house the motor is waist level on a stand .
in real life it is typically 8ft up on a work rack and you do this standing on a ladder.
and that is about it in a nutshell.
may be worth your time to take it in to someone with some training and experience.
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if I live long enough that my F225TXRD craps out,
I'll have to find another (secondhand) pre-VCT 3.3 F225
I don't have the patience for that "interference" stuff...Comment
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It still has to be timed rite.Comment
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I recall you mentioning an ETEC repower at some point.....Originally posted by fairdeal View Post
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