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2006 z200 hpdi oil transfer issue

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  • #16
    Now that I think about it some more, in some piston engine airplanes the engine oil tank is remotely mounted. Not on the engine at all.

    So, it is an engine oil tank but it is remotely mounted. Should it be called the engine oil tank or should it be called the remote oil tank?

    Or should it be called a tank at all. Maybe it is a reservoir.

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    • #17
      While running still no volts to brown blue wire at remote oil tank when tank at half way point and while below the line with alarm sounding What does that point the failure to?

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      • #18
        should have 12+ power to the pump when key is turned on.
        trace the wire back and find where you are loosing it
        just exactly where are you putting the leads of the voltmeter when you are doing this testing?
        Last edited by 99yam40; 05-11-2016, 11:04 AM.

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        • #19
          The brown wire should have battery voltage on it when the key is on and the pump is not running or is running.

          Let's start with a fully charged battery. Should be ~12.7 volts. Turn the key on. Measure the voltage on the brown wire. Should be ~12.7 volts.

          Press the toggle switch to ground the pump to make it run. The voltage on the brown wire should be ~12.7 volts.

          Start the motor if you wish. Battery voltage should rise to ~14.5 volts. Voltage on the brown wire should now be ~14.5 volts.

          If the voltage drops fix the wiring problem to the pump.

          The blue wire is the ground wire. You should not see any voltage on the blue ground wire.

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          • #20

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            • #21
              when i was testing last night i placed the leads from the volt meter on the blue and brown wires coming from the remote tank.

              Hit emergency switch and saw votage. (pump began delivering oil)

              drained tank half way, started outboard and saw no voltage

              drained tank until alarm sounded with engine on and saw no voltage

              turned engine off, and back to on position, saw voltage (pump began delivering oil)

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              • #22
                Boscoe: I see the Br description. What is B/R function?

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                • #23
                  Brown in color

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                  • #24
                    measure the voltage by putting the red meter lead on the wire you want to read voltage on and then the black meter lead on a ground point on motor or the negative of battery.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post
                      Boscoe: I see the Br description. What is B/R function?
                      The function of the B/R wire is to let the CDI/ECU know that the switch in the remote oil tank is closed thus indicating there is sufficient oil in the tank for the auto transfer function to operate.

                      The switch closes and sends a ground to the CDI/ECU letting it know that all is well. If the switch is open then that tells the CDI/ECU the tank is low on oil and to stop letting the autotransfer function operate.

                      The switch being open will also illuminate a light or an icon on Yamaha tachometers.

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                      • #26
                        Going to test more this afternoon. Additional question, in the event i am unable to get this fixed (and/or believe it to be fixed) and take the boat out.

                        How far can i expect the oil in the main tank to last (before i get an alarm) if im burning 2.8 mpg?

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                        • #27
                          Not exactly sure you are following suggested test procedure? clear your mind of what you THINK should be going on, sometimes we get tunnel visioned on certain things, I think you are trying to apply 12V by draining oil and using switches, when in fact, the 12V should always be there (I think) I will re read your reply carefully.

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Kelptagious View Post
                            Going to test more this afternoon. Additional question, in the event i am unable to get this fixed (and/or believe it to be fixed) and take the boat out.

                            How far can i expect the oil in the main tank to last (before i get an alarm) if im burning 2.8 mpg?
                            not far, and if the alarm does not sound for some reason, you toast the motor. not a very good idea

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                            • #29
                              ausnoelm - looking at the schematic i think you are right.

                              As soon as key is turned to on position there is a constant stream of power to the remote oil tank (via brown wire). If true, the ground closes the loop.
                              How should i go about trouble shooting why ground isnt there when it should be?

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Kelptagious View Post
                                ausnoelm - looking at the schematic i think you are right.

                                As soon as key is turned to on position there is a constant stream of power to the remote oil tank (via brown wire). If true, the ground closes the loop.
                                How should i go about trouble shooting why ground isnt there when it should be?
                                Do a wire continuity check of the wire. First from the toggle switch connection point to the end of the blue wire at the pump connection. Then from the ECU connection point to the end of the blue wire at the pump connection.

                                But you have already done that when you said that by pressing the toggle switch the oil pump will run and transfer oil.

                                But here is the thing. If the ECU does not sense the presence of ground on the black wire with the red tracer the ECU will never ground the pump to make it run. It thinks the remote tank is low on oil. There could be a wire or connection fault from the motor to the sensor switch via the black wire, a wire or connection fault on the black wire with the red tracer back to the ECU, the switch could be failed open, or the ECU has failed.

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