150 vmax. No signal to coil #5, or oil tank pump

[RobbertF]

I have a 1999 carbureted 150 vmax. Model# D150TLRX The oil reservoir transfer pump is not getting a signal to pump and the wire from CDI to cylinder #5 coil is not telling coil to fire. Changed CDI, same problem. Confirmed all components of oil system work, and coil, wire, and plug are good. Fishing is really good right now and I need to get out there. Any ideas?

[ausnoelm]

Is #5 supposed to fire at test RPM? Do a search on Precision Blend by Rodbolt, he has covered the oil system way too many times.

[RobbertF]

Thanks Boscoe. I will address each question within your text. It is weird, but both issues run through CDI and remained after changing CDI.

Two completely unrelated issues.

The pump does not get a "signal". The pump should have 12 volts to it at any time the key is on. Does it? The pump is grounded to make it run and pump oil. The ground is applied by either the CDI or the remote transfer toggle switch. Does the pump run when the toggle switch is pressed? It has 12 volts. No "ground" being applied by either CDI via level sensor circuit, or emergency switch.

If you don't have voltage to the pump that is one issue. If you don't have a ground to the pump that is a different issue.

Are you saying that you have done a check for 12 volts at the pump and that you have done a continuity test for the wires that run from the CDI and the toggle switch to the pump and they are in good condition?Yes. I can run pump by applying power to connector at the motor end of wire harness

If the CDI is known to be good, if the coil is good, if the spark plug lead is good, if the spark plug is good, have you checked the wiring from the CDI to the coil and from the coil to ground?I can " swap the wire coming out of CDI pigtail from #3 and connect it to the #5 coil and get spark. When I connect the #5 wire from CDI to coil #3, no spark so the problem is on the CDI side. I replaced the CDI with the same symptom

Baffling. Thanks for your help.

[RobbertF]

Is #5 supposed to fire at test RPM? Do a search on Precision Blend by Rodbolt, he has covered the oil system way too many times.

Thanks ausnoelm. I have looked at everything on the oil system. Even got the technical bulletin from Yamaha. Individually, all systems are working.

[RobbertF]

The pump does not get a "signal". The pump should have 12 volts to it at any time the key is on. Does it? The pump is grounded to make it run and pump oil. The ground is applied by either the CDI or the remote transfer toggle switch. Does the pump run when the toggle switch is pressed? It has 12 volts. No "ground" being applied by either CDI via level sensor circuit, or emergency switch.

The CDI and the toggle switch use the same ground wire from the motor to the pump. If neither is able to apply the ground (would be strange for both to fail the same way at the exact same time) then I would bet on a wiring problem. Could be related to a bad connector.

If the CDI is known to be good, if the coil is good, if the spark plug lead is good, if the spark plug is good, have you checked the wiring from the CDI to the coil and from the coil to ground? I can " swap the wire coming out of CDI pigtail from #3 and connect it to the #5 coil and get spark. When I connect the #5 wire from CDI to coil #3, no spark so the problem is on the CDI side. I replaced the CDI with the same symptom
Baffling. Thanks for your help.

Was the replacement CDI a new one or from an operable motor?

Replacement CDI was from a known operable motor. I thought the problem had to be CDI because all issues checked out before, and after CDI. I no longer suspect the first CDI to be the problem as both, unrelated, symptoms remain. For good measure I loosened and tightened bolts that might affect grounding of components. Maybe I need to look deeper at ground wires?

[RobbertF]

Here is a typical diagram showing the wire routing from a Yam two stroke to the oil pump. Time for some trouble shooting on your part. Check the blue wire from the motor to the pump for continuity. Carefully inspect all connectors. They are known hot spots.



What service manual are you using? I found a note in a 150 SM that reads "With the oil injection and 225DET models, the CDI unit output peak voltage for cylinders #2 and #5 is "O" at either cranking or 1500 r/min". Leads me to believe that # 5 is not going to spark is there is no voltage to the coil. What are you seeing on #2?

I will check cylinder #2.

[ausnoelm]

Need Mr. Rodnut to ring in here. Is the SM correct about coils 2 and 5 not sparking when the motor is being cranked or below 1500 RPM?

Service manual could be right! I kind of think Rodbolt might be more than just a tad pissed about this fault and is avoiding it to help his blood pressure.

[ausnoelm]

I don't think it is about hot and cold, it is simply that people expect to be spoon fed all day long for free, and when help is offered by a very knowledgable person, they either ignore the help, or make excuses as to why it can't be so! See that little word on the tool bar at the top? the "search" function is a very useful tool, but why use it?

[rodbolt17]

mostly
it about the likker drinks.
however knowing that ALL Yamaha V6 since 1995 need a pulser coil signal for auto transfer and knowing that I would carefully test the pulser coils and the CPS.

we know its not the ECU anyway.

[RobbertF]

I don't think it is about hot and cold, it is simply that people expect to be spoon fed all day long for free, and when help is offered by a very knowledgable person, they either ignore the help, or make excuses as to why it can't be so! See that little word on the tool bar at the top? the "search" function is a very useful tool, but why use it?

Hmmmm Maybe I did use that little button exactly as you suggested and it STILL didnt answer the question. I do appreciate Boscoe's (and your) help concerning the cylinder issue that DID answer the question. Maybe it would be best to leave your little clique alone. Then you can bag on each other instead of the new guy that needs a little help.

[RobbertF]

mostly
it about the likker drinks.
however knowing that ALL Yamaha V6 since 1995 need a pulser coil signal for auto transfer and knowing that I would carefully test the pulser coils and the CPS.

we know its not the ECU anyway.

Thanks Rodbolt. I did check the float switch. I am suspicious of the power side of the circuit and looking at that. Power comes directly from the key switch?

[ausnoelm]

Hmmmm Maybe I did use that little button exactly as you suggested and it STILL didnt answer the question. I do appreciate Boscoe's (and your) help concerning the cylinder issue that DID answer the question. Maybe it would be best to leave your little clique alone. Then you can bag on each other instead of the new guy that needs a little help.

Not bagging anyone, never did, and never would, I was simply stating that if given advice it needs to be taken, and the statement was not aimed at anyone, the most common fault here is the oil system, Rodbolt has covered it so many times now I reckon I could trouble shoot it without reference, general fault finding needs to be methodical and thorough, "thinking" something is right or "looks good" is not the way to go about it.

[rodbolt17]

its a stupidly simple system.

once the engine is running the engine tank switchs simply turn on and off.
all de day long.

as long as the remote tank switch says there is sufficient oil for transfer.

at key on the brown wire has 12V.
the blue wire is the ground path.
the ECU controls the blue wire.

[RobbertF]

its a stupidly simple system.

once the engine is running the engine tank switchs simply turn on and off.
all de day long.

as long as the remote tank switch says there is sufficient oil for transfer.

at key on the brown wire has 12V.
the blue wire is the ground path.
the ECU controls the blue wire.

At key on I have no power at the brown wire. Which traces back to the yellow wire coming out of the ECU. No power at that yellow pigtail.

[rodbolt17]

whoa whoa whoa.
hold your roll.
the brown wire 12V has NOTHING tpo do with the yellow at the ECU.

the 12V for the brown wire key on power is from a splice about 6" from the 10 pin harness connector.
find the blue oil tank connector,test the brown sometimes yellow engine side to ground at key on.
.